Or just increased angle from droop. Silly leaf springs with rear shackle setup these toys have. :haha: :haha: :haha:
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
pinion angel on a toy
- Thread starter HvyRtFt69
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Or just increased angle from droop. Silly leaf springs with rear shackle setup these toys have. :haha: :haha: :haha:
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
its binding at a rest. and what is confusing to me is that my driveline angel doesnt look that bad at all
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Just droop is usually not enough--the axle needs to twist a bit..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
can you get pics?
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
yes i will take pics tomarrow in the daylight and get it posted up for u tomarrow night to look at and then go from there
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
theyl be up tomarrow for u to look at and disect
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
arent there two different lengths of ears for toyota shaft flanges/slipyolk. one will tolerate more angle than the other.
stick a 4-6 degree shim in there and it should work great. 4 if its a driver and 6 if its a wheeler. I have only used billit steel shims and they work great, I get a longer pin and bolt them right to the pack. that way the head sticks all the way into the perch.:awesomework:
some steel shims have a larger hole so the pins head goes through the shim then the perch
uke: , I take the large hole style and hammer a 7/16 nut through till flush , weld, grind. then a 3/8 spring pin fits tightly through and the shim can be bolted to the spring pack
stick a 4-6 degree shim in there and it should work great. 4 if its a driver and 6 if its a wheeler. I have only used billit steel shims and they work great, I get a longer pin and bolt them right to the pack. that way the head sticks all the way into the perch.:awesomework:
some steel shims have a larger hole so the pins head goes through the shim then the perch
uke: , I take the large hole style and hammer a 7/16 nut through till flush , weld, grind. then a 3/8 spring pin fits tightly through and the shim can be bolted to the spring packToyZuki
Well-Known Member
Dual case it. The longer driveline will give you a better angle.
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HvyRtFt69
Active Member
got to have the dough to dual case it but that too will soon be in the works trust me, so where did u get ur billit shims at? and with ur shims do u have a problem with ur hysteer arms hitting the top of the spring when u stuff ur tires?
Trailtoy1993
Well-Known Member
Which driveshaft flanges are you using? The IFS front flange? or an early flange? Might be as simple as building a new d-shaft. Knuckle rotating is a bitch and its what you need to do if you don't want it to steer like a slot car on crack on the road.
If you're ever going to drive this on the street don't use shims. Do it right.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I get the steel shims at RIGHT WAY SPRING in tacoma. about 20 bucks.
4 degree will rub a little when flexed, no biggy. 6s will rub alot and be noticeble with the histeer kit.:beer:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I have never had a steel one fail. it cost a ton of money/time to rotatae knuckles if your not super handy. I understand why folks dont like shims. but if used properly (bolted to spring with full pin engaged in pad) they pose no threat. Ill bet I have installed shims on more vehicles than you have owned with no problems.:awesomework: you can even weld them to the perches on toyotas, they have steel perches not cast into the third.:beer:
not starting a debate, just sounds like he aint got the dough to it the
BEST way.
megatoys Ecab is the only toyota I know with a cut and turned toyota front in my neck of the woods. it just isnt done as much on toyotas as say a scout or waggy front.
I have addressed this problem on 79-83 toyotas with short 4/5 speeds and still made a shaft work without cutting knuckles.
PS get rid of the CV at the transfer case too.
uke: good luck:beer:
Pins break, shims spit out.
But you've installed more shims than vehicles I've owned so you must know more than me. :looser: But then again I don't give a rat's ass about your opinion. :fawkdancesmiley:
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
How much does it really cost to do a budget cut & turn?
A couple bucks in grinding wheels, some wire and shielding gas? I guess you gotta buy some spring perches (assuming you're not careful taking the old ones off) and an angle finder if you don't already have one. You can even relocate the fill plug for basically free and weld up the drain plug so it doesn't get buggered up anymore. Even if it costs you a six-pack to have a buddy weld up the knuckles for you, how is this expensive?
Probably still comparable to the price of new spring pins and quality shims and it will be done right.
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
well i could take the time to do it all right but i dont have a welder either so that always seems to put a damper on things. i dont have a cv at the transfer case either its just a single u joint at both ends.
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
i am using earlier flanges and thats another thing i was thinking about whas going to an ifs front flange to see if it would help
HvyRtFt69
Active Member
so this is what i have in mind, i was thinking about putting a 3/4 inch spacer on the cross member and then get a 3 degree shim and put it under the springs which would put my caster and 4 degrees negitive. what do u think?:scratchhead:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
your right its all free. it just isnt fun to take down a whole frontend to nothin and spend an afternoon eating comets off the grinder when it can be set up just an hour or two using shims. I am pretty lazy and will avoid the grinder for a ratchet anytime.:awesomework:
