RCV Big Bells in 05+ F250/350 outers

[Bebop]

Oh I'm going to have that thing machined and get those bells for sure. I'm almost there.

But popping the boots suck balls and the idea of the upper and lower BJs being replaced by some bolts you can remove in 2 sec with an impact seems way to good not to explore.

 

[kmcminn]

Yeah big stickies and cheap EFI horsepower have been game changers for sure!



I want to see it done also.

I was right were you are now a few years ago, got all the measurements, test fitting (with a fake shaft) but I didn't have the $ to spend on the huge RCV shafts, so I ended up leaving the knuckles alone and buying a set of 1550 shafts (that are still sitting on the shelf too).

By all measurements, it'll work. and it'll suck to install the boot. I've heard that boiling the boot then installing it hot makes it much easier.

Were you planning on installing inner, then boot and then slide the stub in with the knuckle on. Or trying what enzo is thinking in assemble axle then put on knuckle? Also what was you plans on the lower bj stud?


Also putting these boots are hell even on a 60, no way around it.

 

[Bebop]

He was planning to install the knuckle, put the orange booth in the knuckle then slide the shaft+CV assy through the knuckle bore, pop the boot in then install the UB.

 

[smbroady82]

Good write up Enzo!

 

[redneckengineered]

To go 8 lugs on the F450/550 outer you have to swap the UB's with a set from a 250/350. When you do that, the stock 450/550 brakes don't fit anymore.
The only people I know running the F450/550 outers run pinion brakes because of that.
And I don't want to run pinion brakes.

Yes and no.

Yes because hopefully it works and the bell fits. But this hasn't been verified yet. I should be able to confirm this week soon.

The problems I see are:
- It requires machining
- Does the bore has to be open so much to fit the bell that it doesn't center the UB properly anymore ???
- The upper BJ eliminators are needed anyway as the stock upper BJs are weak and bent. They are installed without any machining, so anyone could install them.
- Popping the orange dome on and off, in position, in the knuckle is going to be a major pita. I'd rather remove 2 bolts (upper and lower axis) and just remove the knuckle in one shot. You could even leave the UB and brakes on the knuckle and just remove the whole deal in 1 shot to access the shafts.

Makes sense. Option 3 just get the Reid Super Kingpins and say **** it :****:

 

[Bebop]

Good write up Enzo!

Thanks bro

Makes sense. Option 3 just get the Reid Super Kingpins and say **** it :****:

This is probably what's happening if I can't get the BJ eliminator kits in a timely fashion...

 

[TBItoy]

Were you planning on installing inner, then boot and then slide the stub in with the knuckle on. Or trying what enzo is thinking in assemble axle then put on knuckle? Also what was you plans on the lower bj stud?


Also putting these boots are hell even on a 60, no way around it.

He was planning to install the knuckle, put the orange booth in the knuckle then slide the shaft+CV assy through the knuckle bore, pop the boot in then install the UB.

This. I figured out that with stock balljoints, the were wasn't really enough clearance to drop the knuckle with the shaft installed, hence the boring of the knuckle seal ID to slide the stub in.

sawzall/grind the stud off flush with the lower BJ nut.

probably use the unit bearing studs to pull the axle into the boot, with a fork tool/spacer against the inner C.



The bj eliminators are a pretty decent setup, definitely make it easier to take the knuckle off.
anyone with a lathe should be able to make a bj eliminator setup





Or be a big baller and buy the REID SKP setup.

 

[Bebop]

probably use the unit bearing studs to pull the axle into the boot, with a fork tool/spacer against the inner C.

That's install. Fairly easy.

Removal would suck tho

 

[TBItoy]

nah, just make a puller with some stand offs (like a steering wheel puller) and pull the stub out with the threaded hole. The knuckle bore will catch the boot.

 

[redneckengineered]

nah, just make a puller with some stand offs (like a steering wheel puller) and pull the stub out with the threaded hole. The knuckle bore will catch the boot.

I'm honestly not sure how removal would go. I had an issue with my stubs (long story) and they had to go back to RCV. They told me and I **** you not, "you may not be able to separate the inner from the CV." I was like you're kidding. They said give it a go but if you can't don't keep beating on them, just send the whole assembly back. We beat the **** out of them and they never let go so I sent it all back. I guess that 40 spline split ring is really aggressive. IDK.

 

[TBItoy]

I'm honestly not sure how removal would go. I had an issue with my stubs (long story) and they had to go back to RCV. They told me and I **** you not, "you may not be able to separate the inner from the CV." I was like you're kidding. They said give it a go but if you can't don't keep beating on them, just send the whole assembly back. We beat the **** out of them and they never let go so I sent it all back. I guess that 40 spline split ring is really aggressive. IDK.

All I'd be worried about is getting the boot off the CV. The rest can slide out the knuckle.

But, yeah I could see that. Does it just have one snap ring in the center of the splines?

On the Toyota RCVs you had to find a piece of pipe that inner shaft would fit in, and would only hit the inner splined CV race, then slam it down on a piece of wood so the inner would pop out of the CV.

 

[Bebop]

nah, just make a puller with some stand offs (like a steering wheel puller) and pull the stub out with the threaded hole. The knuckle bore will catch the boot.

Not a bad idea, thanks !

On the Toyota RCVs you had to find a piece of pipe that inner shaft would fit in, and would only hit the inner splined CV race, then slam it down on a piece of wood so the inner would pop out of the CV.

Yep, that's how I do it usually.
That's also how I put the boot on a regular Dana60 CV.

 

[The-Boss]

for a solid tech thread.

 

[redneckengineered]

All I'd be worried about is getting the boot off the CV. The rest can slide out the knuckle.

But, yeah I could see that. Does it just have one snap ring in the center of the splines?

On the Toyota RCVs you had to find a piece of pipe that inner shaft would fit in, and would only hit the inner splined CV race, then slam it down on a piece of wood so the inner would pop out of the CV.

Yep same concept I guess just everything is bigger, groove is deeper making the seat all that more difficult to separate.

 

[jeeptj99]

One trick we did is put a set of finger clamps and clamp on the end of the bell after the stub was removed and using the finger clamps holding the bell out against the knuckle, stick something through the bell (we have a solid piece of aluminum about 12" long) through and beating the **** out it with a hammer. Hopefully I explained it so it makes sense. It works really well on a 44 not sure if the 60's and all that the clamps are to small but it works amazing on 44's.

 

[tonybolton]

Im sure most will agree i have no business in this thread....

I'll drop my half cent on orange boot installation. I've done a few...not many and have had good luck with hot/warm boot and a super tiny long pick or flat head.

Shove this in whichever access area you have and in between the bell and boot.

This relieves the air tightness/pressure created when the boot meets the bell.

Still not easy...but you're fighting 1 less variable now.

 

[smbroady82]

Makes sense. Option 3 just get the Reid Super Kingpins and say **** it :****:

https://reidracing.biz/products/super-kingpin-knuckles/

that's really not bad at all, not much more that I paid for my Solid Keyed Knuckles for my little 35 spline HP 60 stuff

 

[Bebop]

Don't forget you have to add all the C's, KP hardware, the high steer arms, brand new UBs, brand new brakes etc...

Very expensive very quick VS salvaging parts from a complete $500 axle and selling the stock shafts for $100.

And the solid PAIR is $430. The price tag in your link is for ONE knuckle

 

[smbroady82]

Don't forget you have to add all the C's, KP hardware, the high steer arms, brand new UBs, brand new brakes etc...

Very expensive very quick VS salvaging parts from a complete $500 axle and selling the stock shafts for $100.

And the solid PAIR is $430. The price tag in your link is for ONE knuckle

Touché sir

 

[sleepsontoilet]

Thanks for the tech. I hope the stock 1550s will hold for a little while, but want to know there is a potential upgrade for once I get comfortable with the new rig. I ruined a 300m Branik inner shaft on my portal car a lot easier than I would have ever thought, due to a bad measurement on MY part. I accounted for a center pin that my locker didn't have when ordering shafts, and Jesse told me not to run the retaining clip. The shaft slid in 1.125" and ruined the splines for a costly no warranty repair. Stan did give me a hefty discount on the new one, a free pair of UMHW spacers to take up the gap vs buying 4 new shafts, and expedited making the new shaft. While he does not have an implied warranty, Stan did all he could to make it not so bad for a mistake that wasn't theirs. RCV warrantied the star I didn't even buy from them for free and overnighted the parts. I am very happy with the service I received from them. There is also Overson as an option, but they don't offer any warranty on a 4k shaft either.

I'm running the Nick Barna BJ eliminators on all stock parts to save money. I would love the big knuckle kits, but it's not in the budget to have an unlimited budget buggy anymore. I'm interested to see what changes Nick has to make to fit these as I've already welded his inserts and Jesse's steering on my knuckles. Worst case if I need the upgrade, I'll just have to grab another set from the junkyard and grab his newer kit.