SAS questions

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

Yes I know there is a search engine, so flame on.

The questions I have are a little differnt then some.

Looking at just going with the trail queer set because its easy and all in there.

The big question is how far fwd can the front axle be placed and clear the IFS stock mounting location with high steer?

thats the first big question for now. I am sure I will come up with a few more as time goes on.

crash2 · Feb 16, 2009

I have always looked at that as--the wrong way to look at it eric. Run the housing as far forward with the springs as you can and move the box.

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2009

Absolutely.... Move the box don't screw around. It's really not that hard to do and you'll kick youself when you have a solid axle and you still can't run bigger that 35's unless you build a monster truck

The "kits" are a waste of money IMO. You can get teh hard parts you need for mounting teh leafs and shocks cheap from datin fab. None of the aftermarket leafs are worth the cash IMO either so that is money mis spent. Rears up front and whatever flavor you like out back. Your wallet will thank you.

crash2 · Feb 16, 2009

Also to add with moving the housing as far forward as you can. If you run into clearance issues you can redril the spring perch's and move the housing on the springs. Do the spring mounts "once"..

runnerPete · Feb 16, 2009

i second WHITE TRASH, crash and Eric!! take note and dont end up

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

Ok looks like I will be moving the box fwd for clearence, should I just go as far fwd as posible? I would guess that will work well?

As for springs, my rears are toast, and yes I can see the money side of it, but at the same time I am using a friends garage to do the work, so time is worth a fair amount to me, I would like to get it done in a reasonable amount of time and close to one click shoping has its advantages.

If the springs only last a few years that is ok with me, by that time I can have other sets lined up.

Any other hits/tips would be great!

Thanks :awesomework:

crash2 · Feb 16, 2009

Eric said:
Ok looks like I will be moving the box fwd for clearence, should I just go as far fwd as posible? I would guess that will work well?

As for springs, my rears are toast, and yes I can see the money side of it, but at the same time I am using a friends garage to do the work, so time is worth a fair amount to me, I would like to get it done in a reasonable amount of time and close to one click shoping has its advantages.

If the springs only last a few years that is ok with me, by that time I can have other sets lined up.

Any other hits/tips would be great!

Thanks :awesomework:

You can do the SAS eric and leave the box. It won't give you any issues really clearance wise on the road.

But don't do the box till you know where the housing sits.

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

crash said:
You can do the SAS eric and leave the box. It won't give you any issues really clearance wise on the road.

But don't do the box till you know where the housing sits.

can I ask why wait? This is not going to be a complete street rig, its going to see some good trails thats for sure.

I am thinking I am going to push the front hangers fwd a few inches fwd of the frame for clearence. 38s would be nice at some point.

crash2 · Feb 16, 2009

Eric said:
can I ask why wait? This is not going to be a complete street rig, its going to see some good trails thats for sure.

I am thinking I am going to push the front hangers fwd a few inches fwd of the frame for clearence. 38s would be nice at some point.

If you have the time then move it. I got the impression time was a factor--but didn't know if that was in one shot of multiple.

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

crash said:
If you have the time then move it. I got the impression time was a factor--but didn't know if that was in one shot of multiple.

Not a huge crunch on time but I cant let it sit for months on end, I want to get on the trails this spring. And the motor is out now so it makes it a little more open under the hood right now.

And I would like to only do it once at least untill I break things :redneck:

dirtygoat · Feb 16, 2009

What's wrong with your rear springs???

Bent???

If not you can rebuild them or build a custom pack...

And making a front hanger isn't hard...

Then hit the wrecking yards for the rest...

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

The rears are bent, a nice s shape to them, at least the important ones are bent. I have done the mix and match aproach with the rears and it took about 3 trys to get what I wanted, and I would like to start in the right ball park the first time with the springs.

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2009

Unless you move teh axle back about a foot you simply can NOT move the steering box too far forward on a yota frame... Move it as far forward as you can and either tip it forward to put the draglink end close to the frame or use a flat pitman arm.

if you're going to buy aftermarket springs I'd highly recomend getting the lowest lift ones they carry. All the aftermarket springs are freaking huge...

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

WHITE TRASH said:
Unless you move teh axle back about a foot you simply can NOT move the steering box too far forward on a yota frame... Move it as far forward as you can and either tip it forward to put the draglink end close to the frame or use a flat pitman arm.

if you're going to buy aftermarket springs I'd highly recomend getting the lowest lift ones they carry. All the aftermarket springs are freaking huge...

Good advice, I am guessing the flat pitman arm to get it out of harms way?

As for the springs I am figuring they will settle a little from the start, and with time sag a little, I know I dont run light on gear or bumpers so I am a little heavier then stock for sure.

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2009

Rotating the box forward will get the pitman arm out of the way of the springs but at the cost of either not being so far forward or having to cut the core support by the front body mount for the box to poke through. The flat pitman arm allows teh box to br farther forward without having to cut teh core support.

When I say the springs are big I mean they are BIG. The 4" springs is about as big as I'd recomend for any size tire. If they start to sag a bit farther than normal just add a leaf to them and be done...

Eric · Feb 16, 2009

WHITE TRASH said:
Rotating the box forward will get the pitman arm out of the way of the springs but at the cost of either not being so far forward or having to cut the core support by the front body mount for the box to poke through. The flat pitman arm allows teh box to br farther forward without having to cut teh core support.

When I say the springs are big I mean they are BIG. The 4" springs is about as big as I'd recomend for any size tire. If they start to sag a bit farther than normal just add a leaf to them and be done...

How far can I go without using a flat pitman arm? I am ok with a little modification to the core support.

How far would I have to go fwd to clear 38s? maybe 39s? Measuring the front hanger, or how far infront of the end of the frame?

CHOP SHOP · Feb 16, 2009

Gee lets see, :eeek: your rears are bent from being in the rear where theres no weight and steering, right?:booo:

Sounds good to put them where the steering happens on top of the added engine tranny weight.:booo:

Rears up front are junk. Plain and simple, junk.:beer:

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 16, 2009

Eric said:
How far can I go without using a flat pitman arm? I am ok with a little modification to the core support.

How far would I have to go fwd to clear 38s? maybe 39s? Measuring the front hanger, or how far infront of the end of the frame?

I like to use 3rd gen rears up front just due to their length of 51". They are the same as earlier rears but with 4" added to teh back side of the springs. I mount the hanger far enough forward that the front bolt is about 1" in front of the frame. Then I drill teh perches 1 3/8" back to move the axle a bit farther. You may not need to go to such lengths but I don't think you are planning on running 44's on 1" lift spirngs either.... The shackle tube goes in teh stock spot but I move them up about 2" higher than everyone else. That allows for a better castor angle and no long shackle hanging under the frame.

Corey Y · Feb 16, 2009

I bought a TG kit and tossed most of the parts because they didn't fit good. I made my own front cross member that moved the axle 1" further forward.

heep70 · Feb 16, 2009

I didn't do a SAS bot I used trail gear 5" springs on the front w/ the axle slide forward an inch and ran into drag link clearance issues when the driver side is stuffed and the wheel is turn hard to the driver. The drag link hits on the pass spring. A flat pitman I am sure would slove the problem. I am not worried about it but it is something to make note of.