SAS questions

[CHOP SHOP]

I bought a TG kit and tossed most of the parts because they didn't fit good. I made my own front cross member that moved the axle 1" further forward.

I have used thier parts several times and they always fit great.:awesomework:

what exactly did you "toss"? the only fabricated parts are the beam and hoops.:eeek:

Im confused, if your a super fabber, why are you buying kits?:corn:

 

[Jay Luke]

NO ****. A lot of bad overcomplicated info in this thread. The TG SAS kit is as good as it gets for a basic SAS on a Yota. Unless you plan on competing in this vehicle. There is nothing better out there for a SAS'ed trail and street driven Yota. Which is what I assume you plan on doing with it.

TG Kit is the EXACT same kit and uses the same SPRINGS that Marlin, All Pro, and maybe some others sell. TG is a bit less $$$

 

[crash2]

. A lot of bad overcomplicated info in this thread.

Jay

Rather than say this. How about some info on all the bad info? Its one thing to state something but another with no factual backing.

And for the record I have no expreiance with the TG stuff--all the others yes.

 

[dirtygoat]

Gee lets see, :eeek: your rears are bent from being in the rear where theres no weight and steering, right?:booo:

Sounds good to put them where the steering happens on top of the added engine tranny weight.:booo:

Rears up front are junk. Plain and simple, junk.:beer:

What's wrong with rears in the front???

I've seen a lot of rigs that work pretty good with that set-up...

I had rears up front on the 4runner and K5...

 

[heep70]

I ran rear skyjacker springs up front. They worked awesome.

 

[Jay Luke]

Jay

Rather than say this. How about some info on all the bad info? Its one thing to state something but another with no factual backing.

And for the record I have no expreiance with the TG stuff--all the others yes.

Alright. point taken. I'll tone it down

 

[Eric]

Thanks for the pointers,

Whitetrash- how long does the shackle end up being? sounds interusting all right. I dont have alot of 3gen truck parts or parts for that matter floating around, and the local pull apart usally dosnt end up with anything 3 gen.

Heep70- Thanks for the heads up and yes sounds like an easy thing to solve and somthing to take note of.

Jay- I dont think all the parts are the same, I would go with Marlins kit if there was not such a large price difference.


Thanks everyone for the pointers, please keep the hints and help coming, looking at ordering this weekend if I can get it all lined up and planed out.

Thinking 4 inch fronts 5 inch rear(4runner weight) should give me about what I need, and if I have to I can play with the springs down the road. And it sounds like it should clear 38s if I want to.


Another question, the TG kit comes with 5125 shocks, is it worth the upgrade for the 5150s?

Other recomendations.

So far I am thinking this is going to be my wish list for parts to order

Trail Gear
IFS eliminator kit 4 inch with the 5150 upgrade and as long of shocks as they have.
Gussets for the balls of the axle
Rock rings for the felt protectors
Ifs box mount to move it fwd
5 inch rear lift

Marlin
HD inner Axle Seal
Dual Case kit.

Other places
Winch plate

Anything else you guys can think of that I might be missing on this list? I am getting gears and axle from Red Beard.

Dang thats a long post.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

What's wrong with rears in the front???

I've seen a lot of rigs that work pretty good with that set-up...

I had rears up front on the 4runner and K5...

Toyota rears just leave something to be desired as far as longevity is concerned.:booo:

And the blazer, well they work killer and last just fine as long as your not using toyota rears!:redneck:

On a toyota if you need an offset spring the ford half ton rear is a far better option if getting used alot off road.:awesomework:

Toyota rears have a place in some builds just not on a heavy, caged, winched toyota. I have built a pack using toyota leafs for the top three and three wrangler leaves under those replacing the toyota overload. This pack is on the front of the sami Im working on right now:beer:

 

[nevada]

subscribed.

i'll be doing this very same thing on a (86)4runner...soon. with a plan on running 39.5's with minimal lift.

 

[Eric]

subscribed.

i'll be doing this very same thing on a (86)4runner...soon. with a plan on running 39.5's with minimal lift.

Welcome to the idea board, please feel free to ask questions, I am sure I am forgeting to ask a few important things.

 

[Tofer]

if your looking for a place to work on your truck let me know. i have my 12x60 shop and i will be done with Steve's rig at the end of the month, so the other 1/2 will be open. you pay the rent on that side and it all yours.

 

[Eric]

if your looking for a place to work on your truck let me know. i have my 12x60 shop and i will be done with Steve's rig at the end of the month, so the other 1/2 will be open. you pay the rent on that side and it all yours.

Thanks for the offer Chris, but someone is letting me use his basement for the work.

 

[zukkev]

TG Kit is the EXACT same kit and uses the same SPRINGS that Marlin, All Pro, and maybe some others sell. TG is a bit less $$$

Well, I can say this with experience as I just finished a couple rear spring installs---one was 4" TG, and the other was 4" Allpro.....THESE springs were not EXACTLY the same.... They look the same at first glance, but the two brands had different pads between the leaves, and the TG had more of an arch to them sitting on the ground. Once in the rig, the TG's seemed softer.
If I were to buy, I'd probably go for the TG's....I'm not knockin Allpro's kit, as it's very complete----and nice quality stuff, but for the money TG's are, I'd sacrifice some of the niceties the Allpro rear system comes with...
For those curious--both rigs will be at Reiter this Sat (Jim's Runner, and Jesse's yellow Yota---yes it'll be done!)

 

[nevada]

Welcome to the idea board, please feel free to ask questions, I am sure I am forgeting to ask a few important things.

this makes sense in my head, hopefully it does after i type it:redneck:

ok, first thing, ive read something about the IFS frames being shaped differently. and when using a 4" spring, you will actually get like 5" of lift.(is that right?)

so, accounting for that, would 3" springs(4" ACTUAL lift) AND moving the front as far as the steering will allow, make room for 39.5's?
or better yet, what size of springs would be needed?

and 2nd, when moving the front hanger forward, beyond "normal", how do you figure the correct placement of the shackle hanger? since NORMAL specs arent going to apply, how do you figure that out. without trial/error?

and 3rd(ok its a little OT) how the hell do you determine if a toyota housing is straight:eeek:
i want to make sure my spare housing is straight, BEFORE i start building it. my current housing IS bent.

im sure ive got more...but, i'll leave it at that for now

 

[Eric]

Good questions, I knew I was forgeting a few important ones.

 

[MIG'DHORSE]

i have 4" front and rear... it will be a bit taller than i want it to be on 40's... but we'll see. there's always room for adjustments. i might pull a leaf or two out of the packs as well to get it to sink down. i know this will shorten the spring's life span but im not worried about it.

 

[JACKED944RUNNER]

this makes sense in my head, hopefully it does after i type it:redneck:

ok, first thing, ive read something about the IFS frames being shaped differently. and when using a 4" spring, you will actually get like 5" of lift.(is that right?)

so, accounting for that, would 3" springs(4" ACTUAL lift) AND moving the front as far as the steering will allow, make room for 39.5's?
or better yet, what size of springs would be needed?

and 2nd, when moving the front hanger forward, beyond "normal", how do you figure the correct placement of the shackle hanger? since NORMAL specs arent going to apply, how do you figure that out. without trial/error?

and 3rd(ok its a little OT) how the hell do you determine if a toyota housing is straight:eeek:
i want to make sure my spare housing is straight, BEFORE i start building it. my current housing IS bent.

im sure ive got more...but, i'll leave it at that for now

I had a bent housing that I got from Jason and the birf on one side did not want to go in. Also with the hanger and shackles a 3" spring will give you 4" of lift need anything else ask me or look at my 4Runner.

 

[Eric]

New Question

moving the axle fwd, what do I do with the body mount? cut to move rear shackle fwd? or what? The front should be easy enough but I am curious about the rear.

Thanks for the imput its helping me redefine my shoping list and what parts I am gathering.

 

[Grommit327]

New Question

moving the axle fwd, what do I do with the body mount? cut to move rear shackle fwd? or what? The front should be easy enough but I am curious about the rear.

Thanks for the imput its helping me redefine my shoping list and what parts I am gathering.

Take and cut the front part of the mount off. Move shackle forward as nescesary and then reweld the piece you cut off/or new piece at an agle to help brace the body mount again and allow for shackle clearance. Somebody just showed some pics of this in a toy build on here...I think it was Stub's build

 

[Eric]

Well I went and did some measureing on springs and rears up front will move the axle about 2 inches forward by themselfs, so I am thinking I am going to try it and see what happens. I can always buy springs later and install them.

So whats a good rear budget lift? I can build my own I just need to know what I should find in the junk yard.

I am thinking if I can save money why not.

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