ridered3
Not Rigless
Sounds like it's time to update your trailer build thread...
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Andrews2007
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untchabl
On the Rocks
ridered3
Not Rigless
There's some pictures from the for sale ad before we moved all our crap into it.
Swapped the king bed out for a queen so we'd have more storage on top of the gooseneck portion and it felt ridiculous to have a king in a trailer and queen at home. Also swapped the portable toilet for a plastic rv one and black holding tank.
The trailer is pretty tongue/PIN heavy but pulls great loaded or unloaded. There's a 55 gallon water tank and a 12 or 15 gallon electric hot water heater under the cabinets too. Since there's no City Water hookup we just travel with a full water so add roughly 700 pounds of weight at the front of the trailer for all trips.
Juggy has 106" wheelbase so have about 18" between the rear tire and ramp door. Have enough room in front of the rig for coolers and can still access the bathroom by sliding past the tire.
I went from a short roof (76" inside) 38' enclosed gooseneck with basic/slightly rougher living quarters to this one and love it. The 28' is super maneuverable and I really like the domed roof (90" inside) this trailer has so there's plenty of room inside.
Oddly enough the fully loaded 38' trailer and fully loaded 28' foot trailer weigh within 100 pounds of each other.
All that said, it's been my experience that short enclosed goosenecks (with or without living quarters) are high cotton. You can buy really nice 40+ foot enclosed gooseneck with nice living quarters way cheaper than you can buy short enclosed goosenecks.
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untchabl
On the Rocks
@ridered3 100% agree with you on the deals on 40+ foot enclosed goosenecks with living quarters, especially pre-COVID, but even in today's market the longer ones are a better deal price-wise. Like you though, I want the maneuverability of the shorter trailer. I think something 28-32 foot would be ideal. My buggy is also 106" WB and I definitely need a taller roof since I'm 6'4". Thanks for the pics and info.
ridered3
Not Rigless
Just buy a big one chop off the parts that are unneeded and weld it back together!
Our ride height is 74" so an inside height of 76" was tough to load/unload with.
bgredjeep
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I went the other direction with my setup. I picked this up a few weeks ago to haul the jeep. It's a bit of a project, but it was the size I was looking for, and cheap. It's 16x7. Total width is 84" so the jeep will ride edge to edge.
So far I've rewired it completely, and I have new tires to install. Doing some more work to it this weekend. I'll do some sort of recessed floor material in the tongue and the first section of the deck so I have a place to stick everything that used to ride in the bed on wheeling trips (generator, cooler, grill, etc) so I don't have to pack that stuff into the camper.
So far I've rewired it completely, and I have new tires to install. Doing some more work to it this weekend. I'll do some sort of recessed floor material in the tongue and the first section of the deck so I have a place to stick everything that used to ride in the bed on wheeling trips (generator, cooler, grill, etc) so I don't have to pack that stuff into the camper.
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jeeptj99
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alright went through my phone found some pics to make @ridered3 happy. 24' enclosed with 1' extra height. Put the garage floor epoxy stuff on the floor because my buggy leaks like a mother ****er. Insulated the walls and roof, might go back and add another layer but I don't think I'll need it. Put a 15000 btu Dometec ac unit on it because i want to hang meat in there. Tows like a dream. It's been all over the place so far. At CCB there was 4 of us sleeping in there and it wasn't insanely tight. I might add a murphy bed of some sort and i bought an awning that i havent put on yet.
Random pic of the doggo because he was the best helper when he wasnt sleeping.
Random pic of the doggo because he was the best helper when he wasnt sleeping.
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ridered3
Not Rigless
Looks good!
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
It's not a fancy enclosed but is definitely enough to haul our 2 rigs around.
ridered3
Not Rigless
Haha on fancy enclosed! Much like the Jeffersons, I keep moving on up in the enclosed trailer world little by little.
jeeptj99
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bgredjeep
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Did some work on my trailer Saturday. Replaced the coupler with a 10k rated one, 8k drop leg jack, tie-downs, new tires, and a small brace plates in a few spots. Still need to add some recessed floors in those 2 front sections and the tongue for storage (generator, cooler, etc) but its coming along.
When we finished I had Cole drive on just to see how it sits.
When we finished I had Cole drive on just to see how it sits.
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ridered3
Not Rigless
Trailer progress looks good and should have asked Cole to borrow the new buggy for a proper tow test.
paradisepwoffrd
Well-Known Member
Anyone ever used this type of coupler on a trailer?
https://www.etrailer.com/Straight-Tongue-Trailer-Coupler/CURT/C82CR.html
I prefer the bulldog over the standard latches, but that one seems interesting. Could see an argument for theft prevention too.
https://www.etrailer.com/Straight-Tongue-Trailer-Coupler/CURT/C82CR.html
I prefer the bulldog over the standard latches, but that one seems interesting. Could see an argument for theft prevention too.
bgredjeep
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I haven't ever seen that no latch style. I wouldn't run one over a "normal" coupler. Other than being cheap I don't see the point. Neither of those should be going on a trailer to haul a rig. Maybe a sxs trailer I guess.
Sawzall
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I wouldn't trust the quick pin type. I have a 10k trailer that is 25 years old with the Bulldog coupler and it has never given any trouble.
paradisepwoffrd
Well-Known Member
I had the same thoughts about the quick pin type. I have a Bulldog on my landscape trailer, and have had it on a few equipment trailers. Never had any issues, and it doesnt bind up like the latches. When it is closed and locked I have alot more confidence vs some of the latch styles Ive used over the years.
pennsylvaniaboy
Well-Known Member
I have this style of coupler....it's very nice. You can lower the trailer without have to worry about lifting the pin etc. But it is self locking.. If you try to life the trailer it just makes it tighter unless you pull the release first.
https://www.etrailer.com/Adjustable-Trailer-Coupler/Buyers-Products/3370091545.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Adjustable-Trailer-Coupler/Buyers-Products/3370091545.html
ridered3
Not Rigless
Dumb questions incoming since I have no experience with Bulldog style couplers.
Is there a way to securely lock the coupler onto the trailer hitch ball?
Is there a way to securely lock the coupler closed for storage when not hooked to a trailer hitch ball? I'd imagine the same lock used for question #1 would work for question #2 but figured I'd ask while on this topic.
Is there a way to securely lock the coupler onto the trailer hitch ball?
Is there a way to securely lock the coupler closed for storage when not hooked to a trailer hitch ball? I'd imagine the same lock used for question #1 would work for question #2 but figured I'd ask while on this topic.
