SLOWWW TJ build

TealJ VL · Mar 24, 2009

Just a few updates, the 4.3 Atlas came in and Parts Mike Hi-steer arms, Kelly has bent some tubing and the wheels and tires are mounted. They look great, and they hold air.. Next up is to get them cut, Kelly is workin on the rest of the cage and we should have mounted seats soon. The Guys from Rock&Roll offroad hooked me up with the Sweet Trucker Chic Drive flanges. :woot:

blacksheep10 · Mar 25, 2009

so you can't clock an atlas flat unless you custom order that option when you buy it. ?????????who doesnt want a flat tcase and higher belly clearance? ??? I guess what he said was that most people dont' want to cut into the floor board to get the case flat so they offer 14 and lower * clocking increments and if you want it higher, drill the back of the tranny ??? wow. anyway i think i can put the tranny higher and make it work

TealJ VL · Mar 28, 2009

Here are some goodies:

1st backhalf and coil setup:

We had clearance issues with the Fox Airshocks, so then:

TealJ VL · Mar 28, 2009

Here it is with the 44s mounted and about an inch above ride hieght there isn't any Nitrogen in the shocks so we use the hoist for setup:

The hood will be cut at the bodyline and a filler will be made to hide the Yellow Tops, then a tube will run from the rear wheel opening at the rocker flowing forward to the grill hoop. That's what I have for now. More soon.... I hope you all like it

B Gillespie · Mar 28, 2009

Kelly,

Drill the atlas to whatever clocking orientation you want. We drilled the case in the mooner for a custom angle with a drill press.

TealJ VL · Apr 25, 2009

gettin closer! :woot:

blacksheep10 · Apr 26, 2009

B Gillespie said:
Kelly,

Drill the atlas to whatever clocking orientation you want. We drilled the case in the mooner for a custom angle with a drill press.

such was my first inclination, I called scott at sunfire to ask and he called AA. they said no. I'd say the reason they say that was so a dumbass that doesnt' know how to do anything doesnt' try to drill their **** and **** it up.
I think it fits how it is though, just moved it up quite a bit

CharlieInTheTrees · May 9, 2009

Dam Kelly! Nice work... :woot:

Make me want to do this to my Jeep... :****:

Cubby · May 10, 2009

blacksheep10 said:
such was my first inclination, I called scott at sunfire to ask and he called AA. they said no. I'd say the reason they say that was so a dumbass that doesnt' know how to do anything doesnt' try to drill their **** and **** it up.
I think it fits how it is though, just moved it up quite a bit

If you clocked the atlas flat and got the flat belly, how are you mounting your lower links on the frame end? I was thinking about this today. I ordered a flat clocked case but it seems like you will still have the cross-member hanging below the belly to mount the lower links? or is it not necessary to make the link separation that significant on the frame end??

TealJ VL · May 13, 2009

HERES MORE PICS :woot:

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Bones · May 13, 2009

WOW! That has some great uptravel. Nice work Kelly

blacksheep10 · May 13, 2009

Cubby said:
If you clocked the atlas flat and got the flat belly, how are you mounting your lower links on the frame end? I was thinking about this today. I ordered a flat clocked case but it seems like you will still have the cross-member hanging below the belly to mount the lower links? or is it not necessary to make the link separation that significant on the frame end??

getting the front driveshaft high enough to get over top of the front link crossmember was my concern. I want the atlas off the belly by just a tad.
In a buggy its a different deal. with a jeep, a stock frame and tub, you are kind of limited, and this is what I came up with. Just didn't know I had to order it that way becasue front links were already built

P · May 13, 2009

So are we mounting the N2 bumps on the hood or what ! laughing1

blacksheep10 · May 13, 2009

they're mounted, came out perfect for fitting the side of the frame

TealJ VL · May 13, 2009

Sittin Lo and Fat

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jtreeves1 · May 13, 2009

that would be pimp as ride hight :****: :flipper:

blacksheep10 · May 13, 2009

16" bellies tend to get hung on ****.
with a factory frame and LP front, that'd be tough, with a tube frame and the right front, piece of cake :****: :flipgotcha:

Cubby · May 14, 2009

blacksheep10 said:
getting the front driveshaft high enough to get over top of the front link crossmember was my concern. I want the atlas off the belly by just a tad.
In a buggy its a different deal. with a jeep, a stock frame and tub, you are kind of limited, and this is what I came up with. Just didn't know I had to order it that way becasue front links were already built

I ordered my Atlas clocked flat, but I wasn't thinking about the rear link cross member hanging below the frame anyway. I guess it doesn't have to go below the frame, but every jeep I've seen has been done that way. I assume it is to get the lower links as flat as possible and have some vertical separation at the frame end.

TJ is looking good.

blacksheep10 · May 14, 2009

I was referring to the front link crossmember. If you want your lowers triangulated in to clear the front tires so you can turn 40*, you have to put a crossmember all the way across. You can either put it under the atlas, have 4.5' long links (assuming you put your front axle in front of the engine to maximize uptravel) or you can put it 10" or foot in front of the tcase to have a 42" or 3' link. then you have a 2 piece front, your atlas tucked up, and your belly mostly flat.