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So I'm thinking about a SxS.....

I have a question. The guy I bought the LE wheels/tires from had a nice 900XP Ranger crew with the Outkast fabworx 3" integrated a arm lift kit, that included both front and back a arms, fronts were forward arched, rears just arched, all arms with 3" of lift integrated. I didn't look at them up close while I was there, just simply glanced his rig over, commended him on how well it looked, loaded my wheels and tires up and hit the road. Recently I text him asking about his lift, how much it was, if he broke an axle yet, etc. He went on to exclaim that he had dealt with bracket lifts before and broke axles, but since going to this integrated a arm lift, it is much better on the cv angles. Now this is what I couldn't understand. 3" of lift, no matter how it is obtained whether it be via 2-3" bracket lift or 3" lifted arched a arms, is still moving the hubs 3" lower, further away from the differential. Highlifter makes a 4" bracket lift, which is way too much imo anyways, so I doubt he was talking about that one. How could the a arms be any better than a bracket lift in terms of cv angles? Or does he just not understand how it works?

The differential cv input is perpendicular to a vertical surface, same at the hub right? So if the hubs move 3" further down from their stock position, this is the exact same increased cv angle as a bracket lift, I would think. He didn't mention having aftermarket axles, so I assume he is running stock axles with the Outkast Fabworx lift. It's no big deal either way, I just want to know, because I couldn't wrap my head around that one.

Here is the only photo he sent me of his rig.

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You have it exactly correct
How big a tire you want to run?
If it's a 27 put them on and rock out

If bigger put the size lift on you need to run it. If your only running 28" no need for a 3" lift
 
wont work said:
You have it exactly correct
How big a tire you want to run?
If it's a 27 put them on and rock out

If bigger put the size lift on you need to run it. If your only running 28" no need for a 3" lift

I'm not running any lift. I'm taking yours and that Jrich guy's advice and just dropping the coin on forward arms. If I'm gonna do it, I might as well do it right and quit being a cheap ass. 30" Blackwaters, and 14" ITP Hurricane rims. Already ordered the forward arms, should be in early next week. Then I will order wheels and tires in the next week or so. Gonna run it like that for a little bit and if I find that I still need a fuzz more belly clearance, I will buy the MMA 2.5" bracket lift and add to it.
 
I been running a arms and 29.5 on mind for about 2 years with no problems, I don't know how many times I gotta tell you to just put arms on it and ride! Just come get these terms I'll clean then up before you come! :flipoff1:
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kmcminn said:
Bradley, he has been on rzr forums he don't need your opinions. :flipoff1:
But if you need any advice on rental property josh is your man.

Josh, put them stickies on it.

:rolf:

Edit- or 4 links/coilovers.
 
Make sure to reuse your factory balljoints. DO NOT use the superatv ones. They are junk. I've seen a bunch just break for no reason. Gets expensive quick when they break because then you can break axles, brake lines, wheels and plastic body parts


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Re:

I guess I'll have to use my balljoints on the lowers, not really a way to use oem ball joints on the camber-adjustable uppers, right?

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My upper ball joints ended up being 3 additional turns out from the starting measurement in the instructions.

Eyeball your toe first, then set final camber, then final toe. The toe, surprisingly, changes a ton when you adjust camber.

You are looking for 1-2 degrees negative camber and 1/8 to 1/4 to out. I set mine 1/4 toe in, but that's just my preference. The instructions are pretty limited.

Grab some snap ring pliers and a big socket to remove your factory balljoint. Drive it out like a u joint cap. One swift blow with a brass hammer knocked it right out.
 
Re:

Roger that, got a bunch of homewerk to do tonight, so it will probably be next weekend before I can fawk with it.
 
Re:

I would go ahead and get some superDave's bushings or some good bushings so you won't have to worry bout those

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Re:

I will probably just run my stockers til they wear out. Might as well get my money's worth out of them first. But good info on the super dave's bushings, look like they are answer for the factory mickey mouse bushings.
 
TacomaJD said:
I will probably just run my stockers til they wear out. Might as well get my money's worth out of them first. But good info on the super dave's bushings, look like they are answer for the factory mickey mouse bushings.

The super atv delrin bushings are nice too. Not sure how price compared to super daves.
 

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