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Stand back beotches

That's why I liked that outlaw buggy...I believe it had the same combo you you're talking about. I think it had a Magnusson blower and I'm not familiar with those. I know the bigger Whipples...2.9's....3.0+'s are a different design than some other TVS blowers where they're more efficient on the top end vs lower end like your typical "roots" types.

Again, this is all from a weekend trail riders perspective. I'm sure when you live it / run it you know what works for you.
 
Re: Stand back beotches

zukimaster said:
. I have thought the same thing a lot of times, people spending thousands of dollars for stroker engines etc. to get big power, take a stock 1500 dollar 6.0, mild cam, head work, supercharge that bitch! 550-600 real hp that is instant off throttle. To each there on I guess.

That's what Burkey ran/runs.

New TC rig is mind blowing. As always.
 
Re: Stand back beotches

zukimaster said:
. I have thought the same thing a lot of times, people spending thousands of dollars for stroker engines etc. to get big power, take a stock 1500 dollar 6.0, mild cam, head work, supercharge that bitch! 550-600 real hp that is instant off throttle. To each there on I guess.
The only problem i see is you would need a forged bottom end to really crank on it. If your going through the engine already you could use the money you spent on the blower to make the horsepower you were gonna make before and not add anything too it. You could slap a used 6.0 in one and strap a blower to it and see what happens. May never let go may sling apart first ride. Then you need another 1500 dollar motor......
 
tonybolton said:
....waiting on someone to do a Coyote 5.0 motor with whipple. :)

The 15>'s are being tested to live at 700-800 range straight from the crate.
Is that actual horsepower or did the masons tell you that?
 
BUG-E J said:
Is that actual horsepower or did the masons tell you that?

whp with an add on blower. They're stout motors with an oil pump gear/crank sprocket upgrade for peace of mind. The 11-14 motors are a little less due to less efficient heads/valvetrain at the 600-700 range.

...and yes, they're considerably more than your avg 5.3/6.0 with 100K miles on them from a junkyard. 1k vs 3.5k, then you have the aftermarket support factor. Motors change but GM will always have the cheaper category checked in the PRO column.

I just really like the way these motors run. But I love all makes....mopar / LS / old school stuff. The older 2 valve and 4 valve 4.6 cars just don't have the same "want to" in my opinion. Just personal preference.
 
tonybolton said:
....waiting on someone to do a Coyote 5.0 motor with whipple. :)

The 15>'s are being tested to live at 700-800 range straight from the crate.

Waiting on you :dunno: figured you'd have one in your jeep when you showed up at Winrock yesterday?
 
86chevota said:
Waiting on you :dunno: figured you'd have one in your jeep when you showed up at Winrock yesterday?

My ol rig does everything I need plus some i'll never need. Gas/oil/grease...be happy if it's still like this for next 10 years.
 
Re: Stand back beotches

poolman said:
I haven't, post some pictures

I don't know if there are any full pictures of it out yet unless he has posted them on Facebook. He has just done small teaser pictures on Instagram.

It's around a 1994? Peterbilt truck with huge sleeper, I think around 120". 500 or 550hp motor and he has murdered it out. Also made a custom flatbed on the back.
 
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Re: Stand back beotches

zukimaster said:
. I have thought the same thing a lot of times, people spending thousands of dollars for stroker engines etc. to get big power, take a stock 1500 dollar 6.0, mild cam, head work, supercharge that bitch! 550-600 real hp that is instant off throttle. To each there on I guess.

I posed the question on pirate a few years ago, mainly to pick some of the U4 guys minds.

General consensus was that you had to spend basically the same amount of money on the engine to make it live in a long distance race application, so you might as well build a stoker with excellent parts and not worry about extra weight and complexity of boosting (and inter-cooling the boosted incoming air)
 
tonybolton said:
My ol rig does everything I need plus some i'll never need. Gas/oil/grease...be happy if it's still like this for next 10 years.


Your ol rig is tuff as hell
 
Re: Stand back beotches

TBItoy said:
I posed the question on pirate a few years ago, mainly to pick some of the U4 guys minds.

General consensus was that you had to spend basically the same amount of money on the engine to make it live in a long distance race application, so you might as well build a stoker with excellent parts and not worry about extra weight and complexity of boosting (and inter-cooling the boosted incoming air)

I agree - long term racing is super hard on a motor. Its hot, your oil is all over the place, its high RPM for long periods of time, and its just overall not getting a break much.

That said...I would be interested to see how a junkyard superstar would do in the bouncing world where you arent running the motor for that long and dont really require the longevity that a U4 car does. I would be willing to bet that in the bouncing world a super hot boosted junkyard motor would last way longer than it would in the desert!

Could go either way though....someone with more money and time than me should try it so we can find out :eat: flashemifyougotem
 
For NON racing type motors, how much oil are you guys putting in the motor? It's been a while since I searched but when I had my Cherokees, the rule of thumb was to put 1/2 to 1 quart over the recommended amount to make sure oil gets to where it needs to when on its side / severe off camber.
 
tonybolton said:
For NON racing type motors, how much oil are you guys putting in the motor? It's been a while since I searched but when I had my Cherokees, the rule of thumb was to put 1/2 to 1 quart over the recommended amount to make sure oil gets to where it needs to when on its side / severe off camber.
I pour some in mine when it gets a quart low. Honestly im pretty sure my stick and tube arent even for my motor?
 
tonybolton said:
For NON racing type motors, how much oil are you guys putting in the motor? It's been a while since I searched but when I had my Cherokees, the rule of thumb was to put 1/2 to 1 quart over the recommended amount to make sure oil gets to where it needs to when on its side / severe off camber.

I Always run 1 quart over full in my rigs.
 

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