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Stand back beotches

tonybolton said:
For NON racing type motors, how much oil are you guys putting in the motor? It's been a while since I searched but when I had my Cherokees, the rule of thumb was to put 1/2 to 1 quart over the recommended amount to make sure oil gets to where it needs to when on its side / severe off camber.

Not sure, I haven't checked it in 3 years :****:
 
Re: Stand back beotches

TBItoy said:
I posed the question on pirate a few years ago, mainly to pick some of the U4 guys minds.

General consensus was that you had to spend basically the same amount of money on the engine to make it live in a long distance race application, so you might as well build a stoker with excellent parts and not worry about extra weight and complexity of boosting (and inter-cooling the boosted incoming air)
. I understand that, if I was racing for miles on end I would want a bullet proof setup also, I meant mainly for the southeast here where most just trail ride or spend 30 seconds hill killing.
 
Re: Stand back beotches

slravenel said:
I agree - long term racing is super hard on a motor. Its hot, your oil is all over the place, its high RPM for long periods of time, and its just overall not getting a break much.

That said...I would be interested to see how a junkyard superstar would do in the bouncing world where you arent running the motor for that long and dont really require the longevity that a U4 car does. I would be willing to bet that in the bouncing world a super hot boosted junkyard motor would last way longer than it would in the desert!

Could go either way though....someone with more money and time than me should try it so we can find out :eat: flashemifyougotem

Isn't that basically what Burkey did? 300hp LQ4 out of roto-rooter van + 30psi boost + 700 shot of NOS = bouncer motor.
 
I went thur 5 junk yard motor in 3 years boosting them at 15 lbs. Some lasted for months .Four of them where 6.0. I had one 5.3 that lasted 4 hours and locked down on the trail. I was a fun ride for 4 hours.
 
extremetownie said:
I went thur 5 junk yard motor in 3 years boosting them at 15 lbs. Some lasted for months .Four of them where 6.0. I had one 5.3 that lasted 4 hours and locked down on the trail. I was a fun ride for 4 hours.

Tune is everything in most cases, but the size and number of blowers may have lead to those oopsies
 
tonybolton said:
For NON racing type motors, how much oil are you guys putting in the motor? It's been a while since I searched but when I had my Cherokees, the rule of thumb was to put 1/2 to 1 quart over the recommended amount to make sure oil gets to where it needs to when on its side / severe off camber.

my oil pan is so bent up and dented it's shows a quart low. But a 4.0 is damn hard to kill so I think it'll be ok. I add to it when the puddle under it stops growing.
 
extremetownie said:
I went thur 5 junk yard motor in 3 years boosting them at 15 lbs. Some lasted for months .Four of them where 6.0. I had one 5.3 that lasted 4 hours and locked down on the trail. I was a fun ride for 4 hours.

Few questions. Turbo or supercharger? Were they professionally tuned and larger injectors, springs, lifters, cam used? What failed?
 
The-Boss said:
Few questions. Turbo or supercharger? Were they professionally tuned and larger injectors, springs, lifters, cam used? What failed?
https://youtu.be/BqxKdzDo5MU
Anall this time i thought that smoke was fuel! Hahahahahahaha
 
Sorry ment to quote roger

extremetownie said:
I went thur 5 junk yard motor in 3 years boosting them at 15 lbs. Some lasted for months .Four of them where 6.0. I had one 5.3 that lasted 4 hours and locked down on the trail. I was a fun ride for 4 hours.
 
For everyone mentioning the TVS blower, consider the heat...IMO, that's why they don't work well. They build way too much heat for a trail rig. If you don't make it in the first WOT pull, your ****'s gonna run hot.
 
The TVS's aren't like old Eaton(HEATon's)....they're better, but not great. I mean, aren't most runs like 18-45 seconds long? Of course, packaging a good quality heat exchangers is another issue, but people mountin' small radiators in the back to cool big blocks for some time now.
 
I wonder how high the belly is at full bump. If it's not on the ground it's gotta be close. Just seems like a big air landing with a rock in the right spot could lead to one hell of a belly smack.

As far as the steering setup I'm still trying to wrap my head around that. Since the ram center line stays fixed throughout the stroke and a tie rod center line does not, it has to be creating some opposing forces.
 
tallnate said:
As far as the steering setup I'm still trying to wrap my head around that. Since the ram center line stays fixed throughout the stroke and a tie rod center line does not, it has to be creating some opposing forces.
Man, This was a pissing match on pirate a decade ago, they guy doing it finally made a vid I think, of him cycling it by hand with everything completely tight by hand. Unhooked the hoses, and went lock to lock. I agree there are a couple different planes working, but the difference is miniscule
 
blacksheep10 said:
Man, This was a pissing match on pirate a decade ago, they guy doing it finally made a vid I think, of him cycling it by hand with everything completely tight by hand. Unhooked the hoses, and went lock to lock. I agree there are a couple different planes working, but the difference is miniscule

Really, that's interesting. So in thinking about it again, I guess it does make sense. Since the ram and tie rod are bolted through the same point on the steering arms, as the ram steers, the tie rod is just along for the ride.
 

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