Congrats dude....my rig actually made it around the block this past weekend. No needs to remove the t-case any time soon!!
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The Apocalypse Redux: Nuzzy's return to the trail...
- Thread starter Nuzzy
- Start date
Congrats dude....my rig actually made it around the block this past weekend. No needs to remove the t-case any time soon!!
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
:clappy:
What you still got left to do??
Hey, fwiw I think due to that freakin clutch, I've taken my tranny/t-case in and out almost as many times as your damn t-case :haha::haha:
:clappy:
What you still got left to do??
Well...first I need to move, again. I actually found reasonable place to rent. No need to call Weif's mom up for a couch to crash on.
Not close to trail worthy yet - mount seat to cage, shock mounts, mount transmission cooler, replace some bearings in the front axle. I want to bring it closer to the ground, sits a little higher than I would like. Should be wheelable this summer.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Found the coolant leak :redneck:
Apparently the hose clamp can't hold it on under load. The hose inner id is just a bit too big for that fitting. Gonna try to find a bit bigger fitting or one with a bigger barb. I like $2 fixes!
Apparently the hose clamp can't hold it on under load. The hose inner id is just a bit too big for that fitting. Gonna try to find a bit bigger fitting or one with a bigger barb. I like $2 fixes!
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
The engine temp sender does seem to be working though. And the temp switch controlling my elec fan worked and kicked the fan on once it got hot enough, so that thar is two unknowns tested 
I am gonna wire a new elec fan switch in my dash though. I had done one that was a 2 position set for auto or forced off (water crossings). But thinking more about it, I want a 3 position so I can have auto/forced on/forced off. Should be simple and cheap.
Have also realized the shifters will need to be re-bent again. Last time I only bent them sideways but now that the t-case is in it's final resting spot, it's obvious they need to come back from the dash
I am gonna wire a new elec fan switch in my dash though. I had done one that was a 2 position set for auto or forced off (water crossings). But thinking more about it, I want a 3 position so I can have auto/forced on/forced off. Should be simple and cheap.
Have also realized the shifters will need to be re-bent again. Last time I only bent them sideways but now that the t-case is in it's final resting spot, it's obvious they need to come back from the dash
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
And Tony, here's the body side bracket I reworked for the bell crank. This way I could move it over to take out slack still using the existing studs. I thought about how the pedal movement might twist the bracket but I'm pretty sure the force will actually be exerted back onto the bracket into the body rather than away from it.
Stick welding FTW!!
Stick welding FTW!!
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
I'm far from good, but getting better when welding in ideal positions on the bench. My out of position, vert, and upside down stick currently leave much to be desired :redneck:
I may still yet go hydraulic if I get a wild bug up my ass later on. I just reworked the bell crank cause I already had it, thus no spending required.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Well, the hose shouldn't blow off any more with the new fitting. I also fixed the twin sticks by changing mounting holes. Then wired in the new fan forced on switch. I can taste it...
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
Where's the chainsaw mounts on the cage :redneck:
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
It's gonna be built into the detachable rear boom/winch assembly for skidding logs. And I'm actually serious :haha: If I can't have a tractor yet, I'ma make the jeep into one :redneck:
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
I'm in the same boat right now. The neighbors have a old ass Cotton Wood that BPA cut down and it weighs a ****in ton, doesn't help that it's inaccesible with the little tractor so I have to cut it up and winch it out. I'm thinking about making a sled from tubing so that I can winch it up the hill a little easier. At this rate I'll be needing another winch by next weekend :redneck:
Binder
Well-Known Member
Snatch blocks?
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Well it's been a long time coming, but I finally mounted up the front drive shaft I had made like 3 years ago 
It was measured for distance from pinion to assumed raised/rotated t-case output and thus was too long until now. With the assumptions Lincolnlock had to make when he originally gave me the length, I gotta say he was dead nuts on! It fits perfectly
Now I'm 1350 on every yoke except the front t-case output and both shafts are 3" .250 DOM.
Still need to drill out the rear pinion yoke on the 14B to accept ubolts instead of
uke: straps...
It was measured for distance from pinion to assumed raised/rotated t-case output and thus was too long until now. With the assumptions Lincolnlock had to make when he originally gave me the length, I gotta say he was dead nuts on! It fits perfectly Now I'm 1350 on every yoke except the front t-case output and both shafts are 3" .250 DOM.
Still need to drill out the rear pinion yoke on the 14B to accept ubolts instead of
uke: straps...
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Decided to address the exhaust. Besides the fact that my old muffler and cat were falling apart internally (sounded like a couple of ****ing maracas), they wouldn't fit anymore because of my new tranny mount. Since I'm on extreme budget mode, this cheap ass tractor muffler from Tractor Supply fit the bill perfectly An even redneckier couple dollar length of flex pipe was all I needed to clear the crossmember.
I added one more hanger on the flex end of the muffler to keep it from sitting down and vibrating on metal (not pictured here).
Then it was on to figuring out the blower fan for the heater. It was prolly the only stock wiring I left on the whole thing, but after plugging the connector back onto the dash control, something wasn't functioning. I started chasing wires and found that voltage was getting to the plug on the front of the heater core assembly under the dash. However, still no blower... After some time with the Chilton's wiring diagram, I found a lone wire on the engine side of the firewall that had some sort of male end disconnect plug but was not connected to anything. Figuring it was either power or ground, I tried both and found that it was in fact power and that the blower did work. As I sat there puzzled, the only thing I can think is that I ripped something when taking out the comp/harness and didn't realize what it was. Anyways, I then pulled this (some sort of resistor for different blower speeds) out from the heater assembly and to my surprise, the mfer wasn't wired to ANYTHING
Decided fawk it, I'll just wire it off/high speed and not worry about the other settings. So I get new wires run just using female spades to attach to the back of the stock switch. Not working like I want... So I pull the switch and test 'er out. Sure enough, stock switch is having serious issues transfering voltage. Bye bye stock switch. Just gonna wire up a new switch/relay to be a bit safer.
An even redneckier couple dollar length of flex pipe was all I needed to clear the crossmember.
I added one more hanger on the flex end of the muffler to keep it from sitting down and vibrating on metal (not pictured here).
Then it was on to figuring out the blower fan for the heater. It was prolly the only stock wiring I left on the whole thing, but after plugging the connector back onto the dash control, something wasn't functioning. I started chasing wires and found that voltage was getting to the plug on the front of the heater core assembly under the dash. However, still no blower... After some time with the Chilton's wiring diagram, I found a lone wire on the engine side of the firewall that had some sort of male end disconnect plug but was not connected to anything. Figuring it was either power or ground, I tried both and found that it was in fact power and that the blower did work. As I sat there puzzled, the only thing I can think is that I ripped something when taking out the comp/harness and didn't realize what it was. Anyways, I then pulled this (some sort of resistor for different blower speeds) out from the heater assembly and to my surprise, the mfer wasn't wired to ANYTHING
Decided fawk it, I'll just wire it off/high speed and not worry about the other settings. So I get new wires run just using female spades to attach to the back of the stock switch. Not working like I want... So I pull the switch and test 'er out. Sure enough, stock switch is having serious issues transfering voltage. Bye bye stock switch. Just gonna wire up a new switch/relay to be a bit safer.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Then since I finally had the headlights wired up, I figured I'd back it out into the driveway to check their aim and check out the rock lights while I was at it.
Turned off all outside lights and garage lights to get a real idea of light emitted. I'm pleased.
Good enough for me for night wheelin
Of course, the headlights blew after 5 or 10 mins...
Go here if you want to help me solve the mystery.
Turned off all outside lights and garage lights to get a real idea of light emitted. I'm pleased.
Good enough for me for night wheelin
Of course, the headlights blew after 5 or 10 mins...
Go here if you want to help me solve the mystery.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Headlight issue appears to be resolved. After modifying the light cups to fit the now 2" forward radiator, I thought there was enough clearance. I was wrong. Solder from one of the light prongs apparently was able to make contact with the rad when the grill flexed just right. Some elec tape, heat shrink, and the whole light spaced forward a 1/4" has fixed it so far.
Binder
Well-Known Member
Flex pipe is where it's at!:awesomework:
