zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Speaking of which, the Nuzz hasn't made his presence known on the board in awhile...:corn:
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The Apocalypse Redux: Nuzzy's return to the trail...
- Thread starter Nuzzy
- Start date
Maybee the snow has taken some creature comforts away...
Update: The weizzy have been thru a schedule snafu with nuzz's mom in town so they are busy as all get-up.
I also regret to inform ya'll that nuzzy has very recently sat in his Jeep and made vroom vroom noises.
Update: The weizzy have been thru a schedule snafu with nuzz's mom in town so they are busy as all get-up.
I also regret to inform ya'll that nuzzy has very recently sat in his Jeep and made vroom vroom noises.
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Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately no, I did no research whatsoever :redneck: I thought about it for a second but just assumed this setup wouldn't stay as is longer than a few years, and that I wouldn't have to worry about long term effects. I wonder now though if brazing of some sort wouldn't have been a better choice...
Fwiw, I haven't touched the jeep mechanically since mid Nov so I still haven't added coolant much less heat cycled the rad. Still curious if my setup will even work.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
:redneck: :redneck:
To say that life has been constant and crazy since thanksgiving would be an understatement :haha:
Just for updates sake, I've pulled my tranny, replaced the throwout fork pivot ball that went missing, and have it all sitting on my bench waiting to go back in. Then in theory I should be up and running except for re-running front brake lines and setting timing. :gunz:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Well, look at it this way, it's had PLENTY of time to cure!!!:redneck:
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Well, it drove out there under it's own power...
Mmmmmm, finally flat belly (excuse the wires hanging down :redneck
Still have to get a new valve cover 'cause the old one is warped beyond RTV repair. The clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging all the way with full pedal movement even though all the slop has been adjusted out of the pedal (I can still shift but it grinds if rpms aren't matched). I got a coolant leak somewhere around the rad or inlet to the motor after it reached operating temp so I'll have to search that out. But the god damn thing ran
Mmmmmm, finally flat belly (excuse the wires hanging down :redneck
Still have to get a new valve cover 'cause the old one is warped beyond RTV repair. The clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging all the way with full pedal movement even though all the slop has been adjusted out of the pedal (I can still shift but it grinds if rpms aren't matched). I got a coolant leak somewhere around the rad or inlet to the motor after it reached operating temp so I'll have to search that out. But the god damn thing ran
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Twas GORGEOUS today
The only local places (within the state) are small parks where guys have trucked in some obstacles. May be worth half a day but can scratch the itch I suppose. However, I've hooked up with a good group of guys that believe in trailering out of state to find gnarly ****
Pretty much anything good is 8-12 hours away, but well worth a long weekend. Still debating whether fuel funds will be available to join their planned South Dakota trip this June, but time will tell. :gunz:
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Well, it drove out there under it's own power...
Still have to get a new valve cover 'cause the old one is warped beyond RTV repair. The clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging all the way with full pedal movement even though all the slop has been adjusted out of the pedal (I can still shift but it grinds if rpms aren't matched). I got a coolant leak somewhere around the rad or inlet to the motor after it reached operating temp so I'll have to search that out. But the god damn thing ran
Did you replace the bell-crank with hydraulic slave cyl?
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Nope. But all the brackets have been revamped to eliminate any play... Would there still be an advantage to the hydraulic over the manual linkage even considering the play is gone?
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Yes and No. I've looked at your pics, and I'd stay with the bell crank.
To get more throw, use a longer rod. But you shouldn't need one. There's no obvious reason that your clutch isn't properly disengaging other than it's worn out (which I don't believe).
If you go with a hydraulic, they've got advantages and disadvantages, which could be a good tech thread
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Since those previous pics, I also redid the body side bell crank mount to move it further passenger about 3/4". I lengthened the rod and have it adjusted so that when the pedal sits normally on it's retention spring, the throwout fork has no slop and is meeting resistance. Basically, you can feel the pedal meet resistance immediately upon pressing. It's really weird because it seems like it should be at maximum potential...
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
And yes, the clutch shouldn't be worn out. A new one was put in at Avanteone's shop when the rig was there so it doesn't have more than 100 miles on it.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Since those previous pics, I also redid the body side bell crank mount to move it further passenger about 3/4". I lengthened the rod and have it adjusted so that when the pedal sits normally on it's retention spring, the throwout fork has no slop and is meeting resistance. Basically, you can feel the pedal meet resistance immediately upon pressing. It's really weird because it seems like it should be at maximum potential...
Lengthened? Perhaps it's too long now? I'm wondering, because the two rods, the upper rod pivots the bell crank, as the bell crank turns, it pushes the lower rod thus moving the clutch. Because you've changed the lower rod to a longer rod, you've effectively changed the ratio of the upper rod's movement. I'm wondering if you're now limiting the throw of that lower rod???
My old 'I told ya so'
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Hmmm... Well, I do have full pedal movement (to floor board) so I would assume the crank is still rotating the same amount... But maybe...
Maybe I'll get the pedal depressed all the way and then get a strap to pull the throwout fork further to see if it somehow has more room to move.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I have no experience with them.
Twas GORGEOUS today
The only local places (within the state) are small parks where guys have trucked in some obstacles. May be worth half a day but can scratch the itch I suppose. However, I've hooked up with a good group of guys that believe in trailering out of state to find gnarly ****
nice!
Where you wheeling int SD, I will be in the black hills in june...:redneck:
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Well it's still a looooooong shot that I'll be able to go, but it would be the Black Hills :redneck:
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
So, back to the clutch thing... I was thinking...
The "grinding" I was referring to doesn't really sound like gears grinding per say. It's a lot lighter (don't know how else to describe). Would it be at all possible that I installed the clutch disk backwards upon reassemble when I had the clutch apart? I tried to match the Chiltons (yeah I know
) pic and description as much as possible but I remember thinking how I was still a bit unsure since it was the first clutch I'd ever been into by myself. Is it even possible to put that disk in backwards or would things not even go back together?
The "grinding" I was referring to doesn't really sound like gears grinding per say. It's a lot lighter (don't know how else to describe). Would it be at all possible that I installed the clutch disk backwards upon reassemble when I had the clutch apart? I tried to match the Chiltons (yeah I know
) pic and description as much as possible but I remember thinking how I was still a bit unsure since it was the first clutch I'd ever been into by myself. Is it even possible to put that disk in backwards or would things not even go back together?
