Toyotanut
Well-Known Member
did they get the semi unstuck?
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The Crash Clan
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ya---we had to cut the lock off his box so he could get his chains out :haha:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
2.5"
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Something simular to this
16" craftman scroll saw. They are made for wood and the blades are for wood--but it works perfect for the soft alum.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok I am putting along on the chassis. I finally got it really roughed in..
The chassis is TLT width. I am not sure what I will use for spreaders--as I had to rob the ones off my old rig to set it up. But I will probably end up making them.
Got the skip plate made and mounted--and then mounted the new rod ends so I can set the tranny/dig into the chassis.
The chassis is TLT width. I am not sure what I will use for spreaders--as I had to rob the ones off my old rig to set it up. But I will probably end up making them.
Got the skip plate made and mounted--and then mounted the new rod ends so I can set the tranny/dig into the chassis.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok I poked away at it again today--making great progress (faster than I thought).
But in any case I was able to get the trans/dig/motor set into the rig right where I wanted to and its a nice tight fit....
Oh ya--very snug fit. I am going to shave a hair more off the chassis to help with any deflection that might come from the spur gear...
I used 3mm countersunk screws to hold it to the skid plate and they sit just below the skid plate..
But in any case I was able to get the trans/dig/motor set into the rig right where I wanted to and its a nice tight fit....
Oh ya--very snug fit. I am going to shave a hair more off the chassis to help with any deflection that might come from the spur gear...
I used 3mm countersunk screws to hold it to the skid plate and they sit just below the skid plate..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok I had to also make a rear axle link mount..
Here is what I had on my other rig, and what both kyle and katelyn will be running....
And here is the one I just made---redefined and lighter..
Ok so now the next thing I will have to figure out--is the axle placement. My old rig ran a 60/40 split but I had to run a very long rear driveshaft. But that limited me to what shafts I could run--and this time I really wanna run a MIP shaft--so the shaft lengths will play a role in axle placement. So once I get that figured out I can start making rear links...
Here is what I had on my other rig, and what both kyle and katelyn will be running....
And here is the one I just made---redefined and lighter..
Ok so now the next thing I will have to figure out--is the axle placement. My old rig ran a 60/40 split but I had to run a very long rear driveshaft. But that limited me to what shafts I could run--and this time I really wanna run a MIP shaft--so the shaft lengths will play a role in axle placement. So once I get that figured out I can start making rear links...
Pook
Well-Known Member
Pook
Well-Known Member
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I haven't been able to do anything.....:booo:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so things have been slow due to the weather/loosing power/water lines freezing and breaking..
Ok so it was time to start getting the links done...
In the past I have used 1/4" alum. either center drilling/tapping or tubing with all thread thru them.
This time I wanted to try something different. I had always played with the idea of using piano wire- Its very strong, very smooth and you can thread the ends..
So I chose to go with 5/32 and thread it to 8-32. Now this seemed easy enough--but it was a learning curve to figure out how to easily do it..
So the trick I found was to heat the ends glowing to soften up only the portion that sits inside the rod end. Then wrapped it in tape and thru it into the vice..
With this build I am running a different rod end..
My prior rig (and the kids will still run them) I ran traxxas rod ends
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101863&I=LXJJ81&P=K
Over the course of a season I broke at least 8 of them--the reason I am going with something else. And also these ends are for 6-32 so they were too small anyways.
So I opted for these.
These are the traxxas large revo rod ends
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101863&I=LXHGB7&P=K
Ok so it was time to start getting the links done...
In the past I have used 1/4" alum. either center drilling/tapping or tubing with all thread thru them.
This time I wanted to try something different. I had always played with the idea of using piano wire- Its very strong, very smooth and you can thread the ends..
So I chose to go with 5/32 and thread it to 8-32. Now this seemed easy enough--but it was a learning curve to figure out how to easily do it..
So the trick I found was to heat the ends glowing to soften up only the portion that sits inside the rod end. Then wrapped it in tape and thru it into the vice..
With this build I am running a different rod end..
My prior rig (and the kids will still run them) I ran traxxas rod ends
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101863&I=LXJJ81&P=K
Over the course of a season I broke at least 8 of them--the reason I am going with something else. And also these ends are for 6-32 so they were too small anyways.
So I opted for these.
These are the traxxas large revo rod ends
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001101863&I=LXHGB7&P=K
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So its time to lay some rod lol
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So here is how it sits with the rear links done..
I ended up changing the rear upper link mount setup and made a new mount after playing around with a couple different configurations..
I ended up changing the rear upper link mount setup and made a new mount after playing around with a couple different configurations..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I got the front lowers roughed in(aprox 1/8" too long still). But here is where the tricky part comes.
I went and took the plunge and going with lipo's on my rig. Finally got these in from holmes hobbies. So now I will have to figure out how to get the lipo and steering servo to fit on the front diff then I can do the upper.
After alot of reading/research I opted for this charger..
I went and took the plunge and going with lipo's on my rig. Finally got these in from holmes hobbies. So now I will have to figure out how to get the lipo and steering servo to fit on the front diff then I can do the upper.
After alot of reading/research I opted for this charger..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so I looked at a few different configurations on the lipo battery mount.
But after alot of measuring and looking here is what I came up with.
Threw a servo on and the lipo. I have a few different ideas for how to mount the lipo---using velcro of some kind....
But here is where mine gets pushed aside since I am awaiting the final parts for mine--and I have everything for kyles and katelyns rigs.
But after alot of measuring and looking here is what I came up with.
Threw a servo on and the lipo. I have a few different ideas for how to mount the lipo---using velcro of some kind....
But here is where mine gets pushed aside since I am awaiting the final parts for mine--and I have everything for kyles and katelyns rigs.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so early this morning I started on katelyns..
First thing I did was totaly strip the chassis--filed and sanded it smooth again..
So once it was cleaned up I assembed a portion of it to set the links up. Prior I had done a 60/40 split and a compression suspension. One thing I had noticed was the issue of having to do a custom rear driveshaft (nothing made is long enough) and the fact when you would belly out you had no droop to let the tires grab traction.
Once I got the links done I went and tore the chassis down again to modify it some more--as I am going a different route with the shocks..
But here it is finally sitting on its own with a simular setup I will also be running on mine. I will have to work with the shocks to get them right (change the valving again) but the front has some droop and the rear not as much... Should work like a charm once dialed in..
And here is where katelyn was jumping with joy--time to do the body..
First thing I did was totaly strip the chassis--filed and sanded it smooth again..
So once it was cleaned up I assembed a portion of it to set the links up. Prior I had done a 60/40 split and a compression suspension. One thing I had noticed was the issue of having to do a custom rear driveshaft (nothing made is long enough) and the fact when you would belly out you had no droop to let the tires grab traction.
Once I got the links done I went and tore the chassis down again to modify it some more--as I am going a different route with the shocks..
But here it is finally sitting on its own with a simular setup I will also be running on mine. I will have to work with the shocks to get them right (change the valving again) but the front has some droop and the rear not as much... Should work like a charm once dialed in..
And here is where katelyn was jumping with joy--time to do the body..
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
(Hijack on)---hey, I just realized, my daughter's name is also Kaytlin! spelled differently, but the end result is the same!Who'd a thunk---(hijack off):redneck:
Nice builds tho!!!:awesomework: I've always wanted to get into these...
Nice builds tho!!!:awesomework: I've always wanted to get into these...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
how funny---and how----well not really odd--kinda makes sense now--I am seeing the light :redneck:
You should--they are a blast :awesomework:
