• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

"The mistress"

tomsbrokeagain said:
No problem just a little constructive criticism. I know I have cut corners at the end of builds and kicked myself for doing so later on. I hear you as well about wanting to not miss another season:awesomework:

Keep up the good work:awesomework:



So, if I drill a hole in the tube it weakens it:scratchhead:

Every car trailer on the road has holes for wires in the axle tube. Does the hole mean the axle will break in half?

You can drill holes in tube structure and not weaken it if done in the correct places. The wires are a bitch to fish especially if you go through a joint.
Click to expand...

~School hat on~

so what would be the correct places? just anywhere a joint isnt attatched or not near a bend? just curious for future projects.:corn:
 
I build aircraft for a living and I can assure you that we dont have any open holes in any structure on a plane. All wires and other systems get run on secondary structure and even then all holes are filled.

Maybe an engineer can chime in on this if you really want a "fly **** out of peper" answer. I chose to not drill holes in my tube cause I think it could weaken the structure, posibly let water into the tube, and it would be a PITA to fish the wires inside the tube anyway.
 
I agree with Tom, as the zip ties just aren't doing it for me with the amt of detail that went into the rest of the rig...:booo:
If you want to hide the wires without drilling into the tube--may I suggest using metal conduit bent to fit the contour of the inside of the tube, and attaching that using tabs/machine screws??? Just a thought...:;
 
Tabs, loom and those little rubber/metal dealies that attach with 1 screw is how I would do it.

Hole in the tube = huge stress riser

Edit: Like you did on the lower skinned section.
 
Great feedback guys...appreciate ya takin the time to give me the constructive critisism on my less than par wiring job lol

The rest im perfectly cool with but I would have to agree the zip ties on the tube is pretty lame and are going to break when they get rubbed and then my loom could get snagged and all that work will be f-d up real quick.

I think I got in a hurry,I had the mind set holy **** we ll be wheelin soon got hurry up and get this done.Now after Ive started on it im back to,I dont care when it gets done...its the roller coaster ride,This burned out zuk builder is riding.

Plan B coming for the back up light wire loom.
 
I was just trying to give the best criticism I could:redneck:

About the whole running wire in tube thing, I would put the holes close to an intersection/ node and try to keep the holes on the inside of the tube work.

I only brought up running wires in tube to try to help out/ give more options. I will say though that pulling wire sucks ass!

Keep up on the good work. You have come so far and done so many neat things it would suck to cut corners at the end.
 
it's a buggy for Christ sakes...it isn't like it has to deal with re entry to the earth's atmosphere.....if your so worried, weld another piece of tube over where you are going to drill the hole...I would use good grommets or spray foam to seal it off
 
I have 2 close buy and I drink alot of beer to be sure im ready to pee on fire on demand if needed lol

:fawkdancesmiley::fawkdancesmiley:
 
Well ****!

I was out there doing more wiring last night(on the engine compartment) dont like how thats coming out either:mad: I suck at this lol but I got an idea:D

So back to the drawing board I go.I ripped all the wires and loom out of the motor compartment:eeek:

Im going a completly differant route this time...I want somthing much cleaner...I will address the rear loom also guys:awesomework: appreciate y all speaking up and getting me back on track,I got a lil impatient and did some sub par work I think I cant be having that on this rig...this is my last build (I may build the wife an lj10 later on)its got to be the best I can do.:awesomework:

oh the sickness
 
I could really care less about a hole affecting the structures strength.


I would however suggest you not drill holes in tubes because of water intrusion.

Water getting in a tube will not only corrode it, but will destroy it if it freezes.

I have seen 1/4 wall 3x3 box tube turned into octagon just from the temps outside.

Ya cant mess with the power of nature/water.
 
CHOP SHOP said:
I could really care less about a hole affecting the structures strength.


I would however suggest you not drill holes in tubes because of water intrusion.

Water getting in a tube will not only corrode it, but will destroy it if it freezes.

I have seen 1/4 wall 3x3 box tube turned into octagon just from the temps outside.

Ya cant mess with the power of nature/water.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't think very much water would get into the tubing through the gromets, and you could even squish in a little mastic.

For the tubing to burst, or deform from the pressures caused by the expansion of freezing water, they would have to be pretty much filled with water wouldn't they? Soo, I guess if he pulled his rig out from a lake bottom, and let it sit out overnight in January he might have a problem.

Not trying to be a smart ass on any of this I could be wrong. School me.
 
Ty. said:
I wouldn't think very much water would get into the tubing through the gromets, and you could even squish in a little mastic.

For the tubing to burst, or deform from the pressures caused by the expansion of freezing water, they would have to be pretty much filled with water wouldn't they? Soo, I guess if he pulled his rig out from a lake bottom, and let it sit out overnight in January he might have a problem.

Not trying to be a smart ass on any of this I could be wrong. School me.
Click to expand...

The dodge I drive has a flatbed on it (that I did not build) and the head ache rack is rectangle tube that looks like a chunk of pipe on the first foot of it. Then the rest is normal looking.

By your thinking that would mean ya couldnt crack/freeze a block cuz he hoses should just expand since they are stretchy rubber, right?

Ice will expand in an open bucket and blow out the bottom and still push out the open top as well.
 
CHOP SHOP said:
The dodge I drive has a flatbed on it (that I did not build) and the head ache rack is rectangle tube that looks like a chunk of pipe on the first foot of it. Then the rest is normal looking.

By your thinking that would mean ya couldnt crack/freeze a block cuz he hoses should just expand since they are stretchy rubber, right?

Ice will expand in an open bucket and blow out the bottom and still push out the open top as well.
Click to expand...

What I am saying, is 1. if any water gets in, it won't be much, unless he sinks the rig in a lake. 2. Even if there is a little water down in the tubing it shouldn't be more than a trace amount. The water is going to expand to the line of least resistance. That would be further up the tubiing.

You can't really compare an engine with chambers etc. to tube. Plastic buckets are are weak in the middle, and have extra strength at the top, so once the water starts to freeze I can understand why it would split.
 
Well,I just dont think its a good idea to be drilling holes in my tube,that is the one and only thing protecting me and my passengers,just so I dont have to look at the wires.I just assume not take any chances.:;



Thanks,Mike.

I yanked out all the iwres in the engine compartment and ran them across the firewall from the inside.Then drilled a hole under my pane convertor,so now the wires come through there and route to the componenets...wich are mostly all in that area.That will clean up the engine compartment nicely:awesomework:

I noticed that the painless kit is having me just wire the headlights right from the switch ??? no relays?? they must be counting on the rig already having that in the circuit?? so I went ahead and built a panel that holds to 40 amp relays 1 for low beam and 1 for high beam.Got the main panels power rigged up on a home made 80 amp fuse and also mounted on this panel is a home made 120 amp fuse for the high output alt. charge wire.

I also got to thinkinga bit and the painless kit will end up having 5 or 6 wires runnin off my ign. toggle...that dont seem cool at all,im thinkin this could be a fire! so I rigged up a 8 circuit panel over on the drivers side that will be fired up of another 40 amp relay and triggered by the painless kits + coil wire powered from ign.Tghis should keep things safe on the wiring and not have any circuits overloading:awesomework:

Ill snap some pics tonight.
 
You gotta stop teasing me!

I see you post and just want more updated pictures:D

My keyboard will never be the same as well. I can't stop drooling on it while reading your thread:drooling1:

Keep up the good work:awesomework:
 

Latest posts

Random media

Fabrication photos 001.jpg
P1010834.jpg
BB06FE5C-366F-44FB-96FB-04332642A557.png
2017 Shamrock Flyer (1).jpg
15390664_1477335652279922_1984432787118844968_n.jpg
IMG_0920.JPG
JelliCo Flyer- Back 2.jpg
DSC02473.jpg
image.jpg
Back
Top