Time to play with the big kids.

[Bunk1]

Your sooo earning all your hard work. Interior panel work looks killer, Got a bunch of room huh?

 

[Money Mark]

I heard this whole buggy thing is all hyped up and not worth it. :corn: Just sell it.....

















































How much?

 

[Clark]

are you going to put a floor under the seats or rear firewall?? will your footwells be open? or sealed up? looks freaking sexy.

 

[Pook]

Your sooo earning all your hard work. Interior panel work looks killer, Got a bunch of room huh?

Its real roomy in there. Very hard to believe how much interior space it has until you sit in it.

I heard this whole buggy thing is all hyped up and not worth it. :corn: Just sell it.....





How much?

Show me the $$$$. nah this one will be a keeper for at least a couple years.

are you going to put a floor under the seats or rear firewall?? will your footwells be open? or sealed up? looks freaking sexy.

Footwells are done what you see is what you get. I think that is the norm on most of S&N's bravo2 chassis. I may rig something up for snowwheeling if I get the the urge to go out.

Passenger seat side is done except for welding in the cup/water bottle holder (always drinking water at the comps and end up shoving the bottle somewhere just to have it fall out).

Under the driver's seat will get a heat shield if it needs it. The ceramic coated exhaust is supposed to keep the heat in pretty good. Its been coated inside and out.

 

[Brian H]

Chris you do excellent work man.Cant wait to see this thing done,:awesomework:

 

[Pook]

Thanks. So close to being done, well done enough to go wheeling.

I want to build some storage racks for trail wheeling, cooler rack etc...I'm trying real hard to fully finish this one so I can say to myself ok its done. At least for a few months.

 

[longfield]

Sweet nice work.:awesomework:

 

[jimboy]

good job pook. looking close, try to get it done for the 22nd aug reiter :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

 

[Pook]

I'd love to be there, but I'll be running around on the dirt roads between Vegas and Reno that week and won't be flying home until Sunday afternoon.

When/what is the planned trip after that one going to be? Pm if you want.

 

[stealthrunner1]

:eeek: why yes what would be the next planned trip???????:eeek::eeek::eeek::; ( Money?):;

 

[Clark]

:corn:..........................................................:corn:

 

[Pook]

Just catching up with work and family time after being gone for a week racing Vegas to Reno...I'll be back on it next week. It is so close to being done its driving me crazy.

 

[Pook]

Proof I've done stuff.



I put my Longfield 300m U joints in the Branik clearanced Superior axles. Also shows how I beefed up the lower link mount since its half mounted on the cast center...please ignore the peined to hell cast welds not very pretty after being beat to **** with hammer while hot. At least they didn't crack and I know they aren't going anywhere.



Installed them in the housings and bolted everything up. Test fitted the Longfield drive Flanges .



Started working out the steering. Custom made 2.25 bore x 9" PSC ram mounted behind the axle, tierod will be in front. Mocking up the rear facing ram mount in the pics. I'll be building some funky custom arms to make this work.



I'll be using the stock knuckles for now, just to get it driving and then I'll get back on my custom fabricated knuckles (which are almost done, just need finish up the jigs for welding and finish designing the side plates)

 

[Money Mark]

Jesus....who welded your **** together. Looks like a kid did it. :redneck:

 

[2slow4you]

JB weld would have come out cleaner... :fawkdancesmiley:

Looking good. All that maters is that it's stout. Otherwise, Just tell Money to take a flying leap. :awesomework:

 

[Money Mark]

That single sheer lower will never work.:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Pook]

I'm more concerned about my 1/8" steering arm bending :kissmybutt:

 

[Pook]

After a couple nights of head scratching I got the Kingpin to Ram mounting hole length figured out so I will use the full length of the cylinder without needing any shims. I then switched to working out the the tierod issue. The main issue being the tierod trying to come through the diff cover at full drivers side turn. The second issue was getting the angles setup to allow for max degree of turning on both wheels and having everything hit at just the right time.

I ended up actually being able to get a more normal ackerman angle and don't have the outside tire turning sharper than the inside tire until it gets turned fairly sharp. Should be nice for higher speed driving.

Got steering? I should have a decent turn radius with the ARBS off and the cutting brakes. :redneck:

Tires just kissing the links. Should clear nicely once the lugs are rounded off.

 

[sarg]

looking good dude you will be laughing everytime you turn and it goes where you want it, its almost unreal at first then I drove a stock steering front axel and was totally bummed:awesomework:

 

[Pook]

Sarg how far from the kingpin/bearing thingy's on your C's is your tierod mounted? Mines pushing 10" to the center of the hiem to get the tierod to clear the front pumpkin. Can't run real highsteer do to the radiator and frame at full stuff.