toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
Sent the injectors out for a cleaning
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"
- Thread starter toyodaaddict
- Start date
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I pulled the old W56 / 23 spline dual cases and swapped in my spare W56 / 21 spline dual case setup. Nothing wrong with my old setup but I got a good deal on a Marlin W56 rebuild kit and thought I might rebuild the whole setup. I don't know, we will see.
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
All greased up
I had a heck of a time finding the bolts for drilling and tapping the valve cover baffle (cant even remember the size now). In the end Fastenal ordered them as samples and hooked me up for free, Very cool
I had a heck of a time finding the bolts for drilling and tapping the valve cover baffle (cant even remember the size now). In the end Fastenal ordered them as samples and hooked me up for free, Very cool
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
So we are mostly caught up now
I'm right at 1000 miles on the motor. It's very responsive and is definitely the most powerful 22R/RE I've ever driven. It's as much or more than I expected so I am happy
(I'll be even happier when I'm back on the trail).
I still have some things to get done though. I'm in the process of overhauling the winch, the grill needs to go back in, build a rear bumper, replace windshield seal, get a storage box, build a solid battery mount, stuff like that. There will also be some more exiting additions coming down the line
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
All this rain has me moving pretty slow.
I managed to weld up this brace for the LC header. I am using a flex joint as well but the more support the better. ( I copied the design from a build on Pirate)
I managed to weld up this brace for the LC header. I am using a flex joint as well but the more support the better. ( I copied the design from a build on Pirate)
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I got the old Ramsey REP8000 torn down.
the planetary gears look good
The locking ring was a bit chewed up so I replaced it and the cam ring was damaged so it got replaced as well. On the bench everything is working smooth, including free spool
the planetary gears look good
The locking ring was a bit chewed up so I replaced it and the cam ring was damaged so it got replaced as well. On the bench everything is working smooth, including free spool
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I welded up a battery mount. Good bye ratchet straps!
Now I need to paint the bumper install the winch/grill and look into getting a new windshield. moving at my turtles pace I should be ready for the trail by June
Now I need to paint the bumper install the winch/grill and look into getting a new windshield. moving at my turtles pace I should be ready for the trail by June
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Love it....
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
Its been over a year since I posted and I'm sure someone out there is dying to know if I ever got the winch back on :fawkdancesmiley:
(let me know if the pics dont work . This is my first go at posting after PB took a ****)
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
Made a mount for my CO2.
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I started getting some noise from the rear end. I Found this when I drained the oil 
uke:
I guess I need to keep a closer eye on my fluids after I've been in the water.
The bearings in the third member where toast. So I picked up another spooled 5.29 third from Marlin. I'm trying a LubeLocker gasket this time. My first impression is that its going to work great. I had some oil seepage around the diff using ultragrey and I suspect that's how the water got in.
uke: I guess I need to keep a closer eye on my fluids after I've been in the water.
The bearings in the third member where toast. So I picked up another spooled 5.29 third from Marlin. I'm trying a LubeLocker gasket this time. My first impression is that its going to work great. I had some oil seepage around the diff using ultragrey and I suspect that's how the water got in.
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I changed the wheel bearings and brakes while I was at it.
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
This happened on July 4th 2018:cheer: Pretty sure a 1980 toyota with .5 miles is worth at least $100K on CL :flipoff:
toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
Having done everything I know to do over the last year, the engine has a couple strange issues with the idle I cant figure out and more importantly It has temperature issues. It gets Hot.
It generally runs between 180-190 on the street, sometimes hotter when pulling long steep hills. It goes up to 205+ up hill on logging roads. I've only had it on the trail once and it ran a pretty constant 185 crawling around.
20+ degree temperature spikes just cruising logging roads cant be good. Another strange thing about it is the temp reacts to the position of the climate control switch for the heater. I DD a 22R and it runs steady 180-185 all day everyday.
I don't think the cooling system is the problem (assuming something isn't plugged up).
This is what Ive done to try and cool it down,
New 3 core radiator
radiator cap
Dual stage thermostat
fan shroud
fan clutch x2
water pump x2
All new hoses/Toyota hose clamps
Replaced heater valve (used part)
Verified no coolant loss
For the idle I replaced
o2 sensor (denso)
EGR is new (Toyota)
TPS is new (Toyota)
idle air control valve
The IACV fixed the constant idle fluctuation but now I have low (400rpm) idle on warm starts and sometimes when coming to a stop before reaching full running temp.
Another idle problem I cant figure out is when coming to a stop my idle drops to about 500 RPM then recovers to 950.
It generally runs between 180-190 on the street, sometimes hotter when pulling long steep hills. It goes up to 205+ up hill on logging roads. I've only had it on the trail once and it ran a pretty constant 185 crawling around.
20+ degree temperature spikes just cruising logging roads cant be good. Another strange thing about it is the temp reacts to the position of the climate control switch for the heater. I DD a 22R and it runs steady 180-185 all day everyday.
I don't think the cooling system is the problem (assuming something isn't plugged up).
This is what Ive done to try and cool it down,
New 3 core radiator
radiator cap
Dual stage thermostat
fan shroud
fan clutch x2
water pump x2
All new hoses/Toyota hose clamps
Replaced heater valve (used part)
Verified no coolant loss
For the idle I replaced
o2 sensor (denso)
EGR is new (Toyota)
TPS is new (Toyota)
idle air control valve
The IACV fixed the constant idle fluctuation but now I have low (400rpm) idle on warm starts and sometimes when coming to a stop before reaching full running temp.
Another idle problem I cant figure out is when coming to a stop my idle drops to about 500 RPM then recovers to 950.
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toyodaaddict
Well-Known Member
I'm replacing battery cables and grounds. Trying to fix a rough idle when using accessories, headlights, heater fan, etc.
Anyone have an opinion on which battery terminals are more reliable? OEM Toyota or the lead "military style"?
Anyone have an opinion on which battery terminals are more reliable? OEM Toyota or the lead "military style"?
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Military style for sure.
Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.
Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.
Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.
One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.
The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.
Clean it up.
Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.
Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.
Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.
One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.
The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.
Clean it up.
