Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"

[toyodaaddict]

Military style for sure.


Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.

Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.

Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.

One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.

The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.

Clean it up.

Cool, I'll give the military style a try.

You know what, I feel stupid to admit this but I bought a new oem EGR valve, when rebuilding the engine. I wasted entirely to much $$$ on this 22re.

I'm hesitant to start eliminating stuff. Im not all that confident in what I'm doing and two its a cali emissions system. Removing the egr will set off the check engine light, you know I cant have that Haha!

 

[toyodaaddict]

Another thing, bare copper or tinned copper ring terminal lugs? I'm assuming tinned is the better way to go?

 

[jprcrpr94]

Military style for sure.


Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.

Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.

Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.

One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.

The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.

Clean it up.

Don't forget the brake booster

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Don't forget the brake booster

Yeah brake booster is a given. PCV too an the valve cover breather, leave all that **** alone.


Get rid of the rest of it. All the egr, little hoses, VSVs, GARBAGE. NO check engine light either unless something is wrong. Steering pump and fuel pressure reg, thats all you need.

MAke sure your VALVES are set correctly to. Ive seen TONS of folks fight weird **** and replace things just to realize a valve or two is to tight.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If the check engine light comes on,,,,

REMOVE it too! :beer:

 

[POR]

Sounds like you need a Jeep :redneck:

 

[toyodaaddict]

If the check engine light comes on,,,,

REMOVE it too! :beer:

It looks like once the EGR is removed, a resistor can be wired to the EGR plug and that will keep the CEL happy. I may give it a try if I dont get any results from what Im working on now.

Along with replacing the battery cables and grounds, Im going through the wiring harness. Everything looks good but I discovered the VSS and stop/brake signal wires where never hooked up. Most say they aren't needed but I read that they play a part in decel fuel trim/cut. Maybe I will get lucky.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Another thing, bare copper or tinned copper ring terminal lugs? I'm assuming tinned is the better way to go?

No opinions on this?

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Tinned copper is better, but not if you cant solder worth a ****.

I good mechanical connection is better than a shitty solder connection.

 

[toyodaaddict]

I got my cables done. All 2 gauge welding cable, tinned lugs, marine shrink tube.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Trying some LED brake/tail lights and front marker lights.

Truck still runs rough with the headlights or heater on :masturbanana[1]:

 

[toyodaaddict]

This is where I am now.
I did have one success, Got the VSS hooked up, so no more code.

 

[toyodaaddict]

I am wanting to up the ALT charge wire to 6 gauge.
I'm thinking my charging system could be wired better than it is. Most of what I am reading says I should run the "sense" wire up closer to the battery. It is currently tapped into the charge wire, about two feet from the ALT.

This is how things are now

Based on what I've read, Im thinking something like this may be better.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...voltagesensing

I could use some suggestions and reassurance here, I don't want to burn up my truck.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Here is a little update on this, almost a year later.

I re wired the ALT and fused the main power wires with MIDI fuses. I upgraded the charge wire to 6 awg and ran it and the sense wire to the power distribution bar, where everything is fused. I also Added a Blue sea fuse block (part 5045), that I will use to power any accessories I may add.

I found some of the soldered joints from the EFI swap where not looking so good. I'm not sure what exactly caused this, lack of marine shrink tube, mildly corrosive solder possibly?

I stripped down the harness and re did all the joints with BMW butt connectors and marine shrink tube. I also put a small shot of kester 245 no clean solder in the center where the wires come together (not shown in the pic). I was worried about using a solder that was possibly corrosive, so I contacted Kester. This was the response I got.

"44 is a good general purpose flux but for an automotive application I would recommend the no-clean 245 over that if you are just soldering copper wires. 44 is rated ROM1, where 245 is ROL0. If the residues are going to see the heat and moisture associated with automotive you will have a lower corrosion risk with 245. I'm not saying that 44 WILL corrode, it's just that 44 is a stronger flux and there is a lesser risk with 245."

BMW connector part numbers
61138353746 - 0.2-0.5 MM²
61138353747 - 1.0-0.75 MM² (16-18 gauge)
61138353748 - 1.5-2.5 MM² (12-14 gauge)
61136931481 4-6 MM²

 

[toyodaaddict]

While I was into the wiring, I hooked up the VSS wire (vehicle speed sensor) and the brake signal to the ECU. With these wires disconnected I had a VSS code and when coming to a quick stop my idle would dip down low, like 4-500 RPM and then smooth out. With these wires hooked up those issues are fixed. People like to say that the VSS and STP wires are not needed but that sure seems to be incorrect, if you want things to work right.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Installed a voltmeter and put things back together.

 

[toyodaaddict]

After all that, my volts at the battery are 14.37 with headlights off, 14.36 headlights on, 14.36 headlights/high beams on. So that's an improvement.

HOWEVER , the truck still idles rougher than I would like with the headlights or heater fan on.

I have discovered that with the alternator belt REMOVED the truck idles great, with the lights/heater on or off. I'm not sure what that means. I don't know what else to do, so I turned the idle up to 1000RPM which makes it more tolerable. I guess it is what it is for now.
I also have some BIG

upgrades waiting to be installed, So I will be looking forward to posting about that.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Pulling my axle apart, I was surprised to find the passenger side spindle looking like this.

It looks to me like the surface the seal rides on has grooves wearing in it. When I pulled the hub assembly off there was an orange colored smear in the red grease. I'm thinking the seal might be letting a little water in.

Passenger side

Driver side

What do you guys think, time to replace it?

 

[the4x4pig]

Looks like new seal time. Did you mic the seal surfaces? May be time for a speedy sleeve as well.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Looks like new seal time. Did you mic the seal surfaces? May be time for a speedy sleeve as well.

Yeah, I've got new seals. I'm entertaining replacing the spindle. I didnt think about a speedy sleeve. If I can find one that fits I may give that a try