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Toyota pinion Nuts

CHOP SHOP

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I have about 10 stripped out pinion nuts from toyota diffs. I have tried a million times to "crush" a crush sleeve, all I end up with is a stripped out nut and no crush.:mad:

I have used mostly solid spacers and can set them up rather quickly.

My problem is without turning a custom solid spacer I have to use a crush sleeve when setting up ELOCKERS. I even have a notch and holes in my 1/4 wall bench to bolt them in to and use whatever breaker it takes to tighten it. I have NEVER got a toyota 8 inch to crush the crush sleeve.:booo:

It had been a while since I killed a pinion nut so I was thinkin positive a few days ago and attacked one with a crush sleeve. It kicked my ass once more and I ended up turnin a custom solid spacer.:mad:

Anyone else experience this? What to do?:beer:
 
i have never had a problem crushing the sleaves.. infact i have over crushed a couple and choose to use solid pinion spacers because of this... what brand install kits are you using? sounds like some shitty pinion nuts...
 
i have never had a problem crushing the sleaves.. infact i have over crushed a couple and choose to use solid pinion spacers because of this... what brand install kits are you using? sounds like some shitty pinion nuts...

Yukons, genuines, trailgear and two toyota tacoma nuts that have the washer molded in (three extra threads). Im lost here.
 
Yukons, genuines, trailgear and two toyota tacoma nuts that have the washer molded in (three extra threads). Im lost here.

Are you hand torqueing them? I know this may be a no-no but I have in the past used my impact to start the crush and then through on my torque wrench.
 
Yukons, genuines, trailgear and two toyota tacoma nuts that have the washer molded in (three extra threads). Im lost here.

:eeek: strange... i have stripped out a few pinion nuts, but i think they stripped out because they were removed/retorqued multiple times... i learned that quick and i only install the new pinion nut on final assemble.. that being said shits just not made the way it used to be:looser:
 
I have had simular problems mostly on the front axle. I won't use the crush sleves because they CRUSH And I've killed three in reversing on the front end. I have found on some solid ones they do need to be turned a little shorter in length. I've never seen it a problem to do that. I was talking to one guy on the trail and he said replace the pinion races in the diff dueto they wear just like everything else.. It makes sence but I havent done it and dont know if there replaceable but worth looking in to if you dislike turning down the solid spacers.
 
I have had simular problems mostly on the front axle. I won't use the crush sleves because they CRUSH And I've killed three in reversing on the front end. I have found on some solid ones they do need to be turned a little shorter in length. I've never seen it a problem to do that. I was talking to one guy on the trail and he said replace the pinion races in the diff dueto they wear just like everything else.. It makes sence but I havent done it and dont know if there replaceable but worth looking in to if you dislike turning down the solid spacers.

Replacing a race is standard when replacing a bearing. Thats not my problem or a solution to my problem either.
 
Ok well try not turning it so ****ing hard ....

...actually when you torque **** you want to do it all at once...with out stopping/cranking back on the torque wrench you no what im sayin:awesomework:

maybe thats what the problem is brad, maybe the nuts are getting to hot and pulling the threads out... grease on the bottom side of the pinion nut?
 
I ruined a lot of toyotas first. And if its striping its not rocket sience. Either your turning it to hard and its not a real crush sleave or your threds are ****ed off either on the pinion or the nut.:beer:

I install alot of gears in toyotas. Not a few, A LOT. I have five different kinds/brands of loose extra crush sleeves just sitting on the shelf. I have set up more gears this years than you have ever owned. I know what a "real" crush sleeve is:rolleyes:

Its not rocket science, you turn it till it crushes it and the bearing has good preload and you stop. Im not sure you are completley understanding how to assemble a rear end.:kissmyass:

Maybe your right, Ill just stop turning it after it gets tight next time. Nevermind the sloppy pinion sideplay.:rolleyes:
 
Wheres Odie? Paging Megatoy.............

He was here a few days ago when I killed the last one. I did the routine for him and he approved and I started to pull, before the bearing gets nice it strips. We even tried going a little at a time to keep from making any heat.:mad:

He has setup more toy diffs than me or anyone I know.
 
I install alot of gears in toyotas. Not a few, A LOT. I have five different kinds/brands of loose extra crush sleeves just sitting on the shelf. I have set up more gears this years than you have ever owned. I know what a "real" crush sleeve is:rolleyes:

Its not rocket science, you turn it till it crushes it and the bearing has good preload and you stop. Im not sure you are completley understanding how to assemble a rear end.:kissmyass:

Maybe your right, Ill just stop turning it after it gets tight next time. Nevermind the sloppy pinion sideplay.:rolleyes:

OK So you might know your ****. But Ive never had your problem and if I had a simular one I resolved it so Ya good luck on it hope you find what your looking for... :flipoff::beer:
 
One thing I've done in the past is, depending on how much it needs to be crushed to set preload, use the press to 'start' the crushing process...doesn't take much usually, just enough to start the crush.
 
so we have dumb input of

Usng an impact,
using a torque multiplier..

this is actually really funny considering the fact that he is STRIPPING THE NUTS.
an impact or a torque mulitplier will NOT stop that from happening.. jeeze.

brad,
i would try using some extreme pressure grease between the nut and the yoke flange.
Its possible its biting / gauling and you are actually over torqueing the nut before the sleave crushes.
If the nut is biting on one of the splines (or gauling on a point) this might cause you issues.

just a thought.
 
Im thinking something strange is going on, Not a parts failure but a manufacturing issue. Can you compare the pinion to another one to see if it looks right?
 
Im thinking something strange is going on, Not a parts failure but a manufacturing issue. Can you compare the pinion to another one to see if it looks right?

This has happened more than once, more than about 8-10 times to be sure.

More than one pinion.

Like I said I just started using spacers a few years ago, but theres no spacer made for the Elockers (very short spacer).
 

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