what kind of buggy could you build for 5k

Money Mark · Mar 31, 2009

85b2man said:
and wow you guys are totaly missing the point i have the drive train.

Gas station lookie-loo's say dumb **** like that "...I have an old Ford with a V8 and a D60......I'ma build me a tube car like yours."

C'mon dude.....we expect better from a wheeler.:awesomework:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 31, 2009

Money Mark said:
Gas station lookie-loo's say dumb **** like that "...I have an old Ford with a V8 and a D60......I'ma build me a tube car like yours."

C'mon dude.....we expect better from a wheeler.:awesomework:

That wont work at all. You need an old chev:beer:

Money Mark · Mar 31, 2009

Nope. It's always a Ford and it's always his brother's.:haha:

I'd love to meet 'a DHR' at the gas station. ".....you have a moly chassis?....well, it should be. That's what I'ma dooin to my brothers hot rod." :redneck:

darius · Mar 31, 2009

You can't build **** for 5k. I work at the buggy store and I build with everybodies left over's and get other **** on the CHEAP! I'm 5k with our massive discount's just finishing mine up.

Binder · Mar 31, 2009

pokey said:
A rig needs a certain amount of weight to get traction. To light and all you get is a lot of wheelspin because you cant get any traction. Yes I have spent some time in buggys but not on typical trail type runs. I do watch a lot of the buggy type rigs have trouble on trails just for the reasons I mentioned. Now on snow and sand a light rig is the ticket theres no doubt. but for all around wheeling a rig between #3500 and #4000 is just right. The big tires on the buggy type rigs do give a advantage not only in the approach angle but also in the fact they allow the rig to flow over obstacles in the trail such as rootwads and rocks but a light rig on a muddy trail with any kind of incline is going to have a harder time than a slightly heavier rig thats able to put down some weight on its footprint. Its pretty basic physics (sp) and theres a reason why many buggy guys fill their tire to keep the rig on the ground (unsprung weight)

I don't agree with this at all. Lighter the better....always.:awesomework:
Water in tires just changes the COG and it's a tradeoff at that.

johny5 · Mar 31, 2009

Money Mark said:
Gas station lookie-loo's say dumb **** like that "...I have an old Ford with a V8 and a D60......I'ma build me a tube car like yours."
[/B]:

This is why I want an enclosed trailer

Pook · Mar 31, 2009

hotrod said:
go with a formula toy:awesomework:

A good ftoy will cost you $15,000 maybe more in parts if your building it to be competitive and wanting it to last.

would be alot cheaper if you had a really good built up trail toy though.

Pook · Mar 31, 2009

Money Mark said:
Gas station lookie-loo's say dumb **** like that "...I have an old Ford with a V8 and a D60......I'ma build me a tube car like yours."

C'mon dude.....we expect better from a wheeler.:awesomework:

We sure got a lot of those on our trips last year :eeek:

mark · Mar 31, 2009

Pook said:
A good ftoy will cost you $15,000 maybe more in parts if your building it to be competitive and wanting it to last.

would be alot cheaper if you had a really good built up trail toy though.

I'm surprised it would be that much.

Is that "from scratch", i.e. buying a "stock" truck to use as a base then upgrading from there, or is that taking a moderately built, but beat trail rig and putting the f-toy top on it?

I thought the top chassis was only like 2K or so?

Or is it the $$'s in the details?

Serious question.

edit: I mean for decent trail-duty. Not comp level.
________
INTERRACIAL GAY

Pook · Mar 31, 2009

That'd be starting with your typical mild wheeling toyota.

The $$$ is in the details for a comp level ftoy.

Stock housings bend, you can get away with them but really they need to be upgraded or you'll be changing them out every second event.

You need at least one ARB, you need sticky tires, you need the gearing, you need Longfields, upgraded steering studs, or knuckles, 2" bore hydro assist, upgraded steering pump, rear chromoly shafts, Decent seats, full harnesses, proper fuel cell, with the ball valves, suck down winches, sticky tires (and 17" wheels), dual cases with upgrade outputs and gearing for the rear case, and I'm sure there is a lot of stuff I'm leaving out.

For trail wheeling yeah you could probably just stick a chassis on top of your trail rig and call it good enough and just scrape it together with junkyard parts keeping it under $5000.

Like I said earlier its all in what you want to end up with.

pokey · Mar 31, 2009

Binder said:
I don't agree with this at all. Lighter the better....always.:awesomework:
Water in tires just changes the COG and it's a tradeoff at that.

Why Rick I am shocked

we always agree on everything :haha: its all good though :awesomework:

Cascade_Crawler · Mar 31, 2009

not gonna happen.

CHOP SHOP · Mar 31, 2009

pokey said:
Why Rick I am shocked we always agree on everything :haha: its all good though :awesomework:

you dont agree with anything unless its old jeeps or someone pointing out something illegal.:beatdeadhorse:

pokey · Mar 31, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
you dont agree with anything unless its old jeeps or someone pointing out something illegal.:beatdeadhorse:

Not true I agree with people all the time that say you make idiotic statements like that one

Harvester of Sorrow · Mar 31, 2009

just buy a parted out chassis...

use your drive train and misc stuff...

don't expect to have the bassed-assed rig...

and have fun...

Binder · Mar 31, 2009

pokey said:
Why Rick I am shocked we always agree on everything :haha: its all good though :awesomework:

:flipoff::redneck:

Not Jobless · Apr 4, 2009

pokey said:
Thanks for making my point:fawkdancesmiley: There are only so many "hardcore" spots where a buggy type rig is "needed"...

You need to get out of Washington State once in a while Jim...and maybe go run with buggies instead of the old timers with 33" tires. You might be surprised what's out there.

WHITE TRASH1 · Apr 4, 2009

Binder said:
I don't agree with this at all. Lighter the better....always.:awesomework:
Water in tires just changes the COG and it's a tradeoff at that.

Absolutely, I couldn't agree more. just like any road track car (roundy round, nascar etc etc) you build as light as you can then add the weight back in where it'll do you the most good. You can't get much lower than water in the tires bolted to 60's.

As far as a "buggy" for 5k I think it can be done but you'll be on leaf springs, running a second or third hand chassis. Start off with a running rig and put a tube chassis on it and you'll be a helluva lot closer to where you want to be in the end.

super samurai · Apr 4, 2009

well i got some good discounts, but i'll be somewhere in this price range. i am at $3500 and i have a second hand frame,seats,toy axles with gears and longs, no lockers yet,full linked susp.,bead lock wheels,2 tires,radiator, f.i.motor, tranny,dual cases,drive lines,body skins,full hydro steering stuff,air shocks,grant wheel,and a few small items. the big items are a fuel tank and pump, tires,etc.