Scott T.
Rush before the gush
TJ
Dana60/14B
Built 355
350 trans/205case
Real Cage
44"TSL's or 42" Iroks
Dana60/14B
Built 355
350 trans/205case
Real Cage
44"TSL's or 42" Iroks
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
WINTER PROJECTS: Since Obama is gonna pay all our bills......
- Thread starter P
- Start date
B Gillespie said:
Ha, says the guy with 3 damn rigs! You should of said Wyatt money, he spends more on this **** than anybody here, save maybe Nolen!
Hopefully my rig doesnot have a come apart at KOH. Then I plan to wheel the piss out of it around here and when it starts to look like **** I will tear it down to the chassis and make it fresh. Hopefully that is years from now.
1TONZR2
Big mudda fugga!
I have quite the list as well
231/205 doubler--some parts are ordered, just need a new input gear for both of them.....and a planetary set for the 231 (6 pinion), the stock one has some teeth missing on one of the gears....from a few hours of use :
1410 shafts
maybe a 14B rear
would like to regear to a 4.88 or so
redo the front links
try to get a flat belly
rear back half and cage in the cab
try to come up with dollars for some new rear shocks....want that C.O.T. feel
lower the rig a couple inches
new grill, maybe narrow the front
slowly coming up with money for some of this stuff. I am waiting on my GI Bill money from last spring and this falls classes....damn VA is SLOW
trying to do get alot of this stuff used or cheap.....gonna be a long a winter
Brian
231/205 doubler--some parts are ordered, just need a new input gear for both of them.....and a planetary set for the 231 (6 pinion), the stock one has some teeth missing on one of the gears....from a few hours of use :
1410 shafts
maybe a 14B rear
would like to regear to a 4.88 or so
redo the front links
try to get a flat belly
rear back half and cage in the cab
try to come up with dollars for some new rear shocks....want that C.O.T. feel
lower the rig a couple inches
new grill, maybe narrow the front
slowly coming up with money for some of this stuff. I am waiting on my GI Bill money from last spring and this falls classes....damn VA is SLOW
trying to do get alot of this stuff used or cheap.....gonna be a long a winter
Brian
P
If its free, its P
I love these types of threads, it always interest's the **** outta me to see what people are up to and changing on thier rigs.
Today: Locate and order a pillow block with 1.37" ID Possibly go to Pull a Part for a 1350 pinion yoke I can put on my front 60... snag some 1350 shafts to hack and wack to put it all together for a front 1350 2pc driveline with better ( read less ) angle on it then what I am currently breaking ... I mean using.
After work Im going to go buy the 50.00 dolla TH350 case that my tranny guy has for me....then Im going to bribe one of the doods from work to swap the guts of mine into this one.
We have two tranny guys here I've found out and one of them even used to do trannies for a living 
Let see... this winter. Basically it boils down to monies. I dont see me doing or changing much outside of trying to clean some things up, get my Caddi taillights mounted and little things like that. I need beadlocks but that wont happen for me until early next year sometime. Basically get the tranny front driveline sorted and keep on wheeling the biotch ! :afro:
Today: Locate and order a pillow block with 1.37" ID Possibly go to Pull a Part for a 1350 pinion yoke I can put on my front 60... snag some 1350 shafts to hack and wack to put it all together for a front 1350 2pc driveline with better ( read less ) angle on it then what I am currently breaking ... I mean using.
After work Im going to go buy the 50.00 dolla TH350 case that my tranny guy has for me....then Im going to bribe one of the doods from work to swap the guts of mine into this one.
We have two tranny guys here I've found out and one of them even used to do trannies for a living Let see... this winter. Basically it boils down to monies. I dont see me doing or changing much outside of trying to clean some things up, get my Caddi taillights mounted and little things like that. I need beadlocks but that wont happen for me until early next year sometime. Basically get the tranny front driveline sorted and keep on wheeling the biotch ! :afro:
DeleriousII
Down da bayou!
one big purchase but can't make up my mind which way I want to go:
Option 1:
Swap 14b for dana 70, 6.17 or 7.17 gears front and rear, detroit for front, chromoly through the front, drive flanges and maybe CTMs
Option 2:
Atlas, chromoly through the front, drive flanges and CTMs
Any particular option seem better than the other to you guys? They should cost within $500 of each other.
Option 1:
Swap 14b for dana 70, 6.17 or 7.17 gears front and rear, detroit for front, chromoly through the front, drive flanges and maybe CTMs
Option 2:
Atlas, chromoly through the front, drive flanges and CTMs
Any particular option seem better than the other to you guys? They should cost within $500 of each other.
B Gillespie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2008
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Bones said:
After running ARB's front and rear on the Badlands buggy with all manual switches and a small bottle, I love it. I like running around open, then turning them on long enough to make something. Seems like its way easier on parts and more comfortable. Been there on Detroits and spools.
I
InDaShop
Guest
Ok, my list to have complete before the 1st weekend in January.
*Motor rebuilt
-Change out drive-by wire throttle body & truck intake for manual TB on an LS6 intake mounted backwards. (TB arrived 10/14, waiting on Intake)
-Kevko gated LS oilpan (Arrived 11/5)
-move alternator down where current MAF sensor is to lower hood
*Trans rebuilt
-Rework for an Art Carr shifter
*Re-wire with new harness from Jims Perf. new brain for manual TB
*Radiator replaced or repaired (repaired 11/5)
*Service Front and Rear winches. (Those will ship out to service center this week.)
*ORI Struts machined for better cooling on the rod bearing (They will ship back to Mark at ORI this week)
*Build new pillowblock mount with correct angularity built in.
*Longer rear driveshaft built
*Replace 14bolt truss (Parts arrived 10/15)
*Mount Rear facing Amber (Parts arrived 10/24)
*Build and mount catch cans for Trans/transfer/engine
*Add fuel cutoff ball valves to supply and return lines
*Remount window nets to not use drilled and sleeved “B†pillar
*Rework dash for intake filter, new gauge arrangement, and Lowrance GPS
*Install and plumb new Howe Steering system (parts arrived 10/5)
*Polish Walker Evans wheels
Chassis
*Cut and replace all damaged tubework
*Build spare tire carrier
*Cut new skins for new tubework
*Modify front body work to fit new tubework
*Paint chassis
*Paint bodywork
*Sticker skins (don’t laugh, this takes longer than you’d think)
Trailer
*Mount some fender cabinets
*Mount bottle holder and get Nitrogen and CO2 bottles in place.
*-Mount hose reel, and plumb air system to CO2 bottle
Finish offroad jack (Lifted Aluminum Race jack)
Remount power unit on HydroBender
That’s enough right?
*Motor rebuilt
-Change out drive-by wire throttle body & truck intake for manual TB on an LS6 intake mounted backwards. (TB arrived 10/14, waiting on Intake)
-Kevko gated LS oilpan (Arrived 11/5)
-move alternator down where current MAF sensor is to lower hood
*Trans rebuilt
-Rework for an Art Carr shifter
*Re-wire with new harness from Jims Perf. new brain for manual TB
*Radiator replaced or repaired (repaired 11/5)
*Service Front and Rear winches. (Those will ship out to service center this week.)
*ORI Struts machined for better cooling on the rod bearing (They will ship back to Mark at ORI this week)
*Build new pillowblock mount with correct angularity built in.
*Longer rear driveshaft built
*Replace 14bolt truss (Parts arrived 10/15)
*Mount Rear facing Amber (Parts arrived 10/24)
*Build and mount catch cans for Trans/transfer/engine
*Add fuel cutoff ball valves to supply and return lines
*Remount window nets to not use drilled and sleeved “B†pillar
*Rework dash for intake filter, new gauge arrangement, and Lowrance GPS
*Install and plumb new Howe Steering system (parts arrived 10/5)
*Polish Walker Evans wheels
Chassis
*Cut and replace all damaged tubework
*Build spare tire carrier
*Cut new skins for new tubework
*Modify front body work to fit new tubework
*Paint chassis
*Paint bodywork
*Sticker skins (don’t laugh, this takes longer than you’d think)
Trailer
*Mount some fender cabinets
*Mount bottle holder and get Nitrogen and CO2 bottles in place.
*-Mount hose reel, and plumb air system to CO2 bottle
Finish offroad jack (Lifted Aluminum Race jack)
Remount power unit on HydroBender
That’s enough right?
I
InDaShop
Guest
DeleriousII said:
I think you get more bang for your buck with Option #2. If you already have the 14b in the rearend, why would you change it? Deeper gears? Just get an Atlas 6.0 is thats what you're after.....
Bones
That Guy
Mark me down for a December trip 
DeleriousII
Down da bayou!
InDaShop said:
I am still up in the air about this. The reason for changing the 14b is for deeper gears so I am not constantly burning up transmissions. I like the 205 in there now because I get a decent length on the rear driveshaft.
P
If its free, its P
3.1 Lomax in the 205 ?
Im getting into my pillow block thoughts really hard this AM
Im thinking about ordering one of two different styles and seeing which I can package better to get the absolute MOST out of my 2pc front and get the "angle" were I want them...
This is pretty neat and i think I could manipulate it mounting wise to get the most out of it for my application..
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-189/1-dsh-3-fdsh-8%22-Two-Bolt-Flange/Detail
This is ol faithful that pretty much errr one is running.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008110607352135&item=1-207-22-P&catname=
Im going to figure out which one Im going to build to use, then Ill order a couple more to keep around as I know they tend to crack in the housing's from time to time... and in my rig its easy as **** to get to them so Ill be able to keep a good eye on it regardless.
Im getting into my pillow block thoughts really hard this AM
Im thinking about ordering one of two different styles and seeing which I can package better to get the absolute MOST out of my 2pc front and get the "angle" were I want them...
This is pretty neat and i think I could manipulate it mounting wise to get the most out of it for my application..
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-189/1-dsh-3-fdsh-8%22-Two-Bolt-Flange/Detail
This is ol faithful that pretty much errr one is running.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008110607352135&item=1-207-22-P&catname=
Im going to figure out which one Im going to build to use, then Ill order a couple more to keep around as I know they tend to crack in the housing's from time to time... and in my rig its easy as **** to get to them so Ill be able to keep a good eye on it regardless.
W
wontwork
Guest
P said:3.1 Lomax in the 205 ?
Im getting into my pillow block thoughts really hard this AM
Im thinking about ordering one of two different styles and seeing which I can package better to get the absolute MOST out of my 2pc front and get the "angle" were I want them...
This is pretty neat and i think I could manipulate it mounting wise to get the most out of it for my application..
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-189/1-dsh-3-fdsh-8%22-Two-Bolt-Flange/Detail
This is ol faithful that pretty much errr one is running.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008110607352135&item=1-207-22-P&catname=
Im going to figure out which one Im going to build to use, then Ill order a couple more to keep around as I know they tend to crack in the housing's from time to time... and in my rig its easy as **** to get to them so Ill be able to keep a good eye on it regardless.
Get a heavy duty with a high speed bearing and you want have as much trouble with the housing cracking. We use than all the time for line boring jobs and never have one crack and they are under alot more stress than you front driveshaft.
First on my list of TTD is the Fetzer valve, then onto the muffler bearings. They suck to replace, then it's wide open on the Luggage rack.
The first real order of re-doing is fuel injection. Taking off entire Howell TBI system, intake, wiring harness, computer, the whole enchilada and sell it. $$? I take credit cards, cash, Pay Pal. Sorry, no checks P. Then putting on the Holly Stealth Ram MPI and let the **** start flyin.
Next, work on hydraulic steering cooling
Remove old computer system with Air Ride controls and sell it. $?
Who knows what else.
The first real order of re-doing is fuel injection. Taking off entire Howell TBI system, intake, wiring harness, computer, the whole enchilada and sell it. $$? I take credit cards, cash, Pay Pal. Sorry, no checks P. Then putting on the Holly Stealth Ram MPI and let the **** start flyin.
Next, work on hydraulic steering cooling
Remove old computer system with Air Ride controls and sell it. $?
Who knows what else.
I
InDaShop
Guest
P said:This is ol faithful that pretty much errr one is running.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008110607352135&item=1-207-22-P&catname=
Im going to figure out which one Im going to build to use, then Ill order a couple more to keep around as I know they tend to crack in the housing's from time to time... and in my rig its easy as **** to get to them so Ill be able to keep a good eye on it regardless.
Yeah P get some of those the P208, you can get 208 bearings anywhere (tractor supply) then make a girdle that bolts over the top of the housing. So if it does crack and fail the driveshaft is still captured. Basically a horseshoe with ears to bolt it down using the same bolts that you have going through the bearing housing.
Thats exactly what I was going to do until we got these billet ones made up.
P
If its free, its P
thebigbearingstore.com actually sells them in SS but they are like 110 bux
I
InDaShop
Guest
P said:
but its still a cast unit though right? Can you cast stainless? The problem isnt the metal type for it, but the casts crack "shatter", vs, the machined will only warp.
P
If its free, its P
InDaShop said:
Probably is cast I dont really know..
Dont really care since Im not buying a 100 carrier or pillow block of any nature. Cheap cheap cheap, thats what im shopping for even if it means I have to watch for cracks. laughing1I already ordered one each of the two style's I was looking at, when a decision is made from there Ill get a back up one for 11.95 and throw it in my trailer box for a spare
B
bigsilly
Guest
Keep thrashing the current DOM links, but probably talk to Stan at Branik about aluminum links. All but a couple of my links are bent. Other than that nothing but ride as much as I can.
muchado
Well-Known Member
Just picked up a new project last night... well prettty minor one... daily driver 94 accord needs a CV shaft but im driving it as is right now. Also keepin my eyes open for passenger front door and a hood. Both have dents in em, but everything functions great as-is... It'd look like a $4k car without the 2 dents.... I paid 7 bennies for it. I <3 Craigslist.
