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yota brakes

If you have removed the valve altogether, and you're still not getting any fluid to the rear wheels, you have another problem...
 
thats what i was kinda thinkin but i put a new master on it so it must be a pin hole in the line or that stupid thing in the back right
 
either cut off the arm or

do it the right way.

I have removed over 30 of these things over the years. Its easy.

It diverts the extra pressure to the front right tire.

The valve has three lines on it. One is pressure, another is output to the rear hose/tee, the last is a return line going to the front right corner.

If you remove the valve you need to unhook the two lines going back up front (pressure and return). Now go up front and find the right front brake hose, follow it up to the framerail and it will go to a tee under the fenderwell on the framerail. There is only two fitting on the frame right there, a elbow and a tee, the tee is the one you want.

Once you have found the tee, leave the line going down to the hose, leave the line going up to the master, UNHOOK the line going to the rear of the truck. Go to the parts store and get a plug to plug the hole in the tee or replace it with an elbow from a parts truck.

Now take the loose line up front and blow thru it with your mouth or compressor until it spews out fluid and air from one of the loose rear lines. Whatever line is blowing in the rear is marked and bent out of the way. Dont kink it as it can be used as a spare rear line if you ever need one on the trail.

Now hook your rear brake hose to the remaining line that was NOT blown out.

Now the valve is completely eliminated and you have an extra rear hardline already installed from front to rear if needed.

Toyota rear brakes still suck and will not overpower the front.
 
zukkev said:
If you have removed the valve altogether, and you're still not getting any fluid to the rear wheels, you have another problem...
Click to expand...

if he has removed it completely and not plugged the remaining line it will spew fluid front he fronts.

I dont know why anyone mentioned a coupler either?
 
CHOP SHOP said:
either cut off the arm or

do it the right way.

I have removed over 30 of these things over the years. Its easy.

It diverts the extra pressure to the front right tire.

The valve has three lines on it. One is pressure, another is output to the rear hose/tee, the last is a return line going to the front right corner.

If you remove the valve you need to unhook the two lines going back up front (pressure and return). Now go up front and find the right front brake hose, follow it up to the framerail and it will go to a tee under the fenderwell on the framerail. There is only two fitting on the frame right there, a elbow and a tee, the tee is the one you want.

Once you have found the tee, leave the line going down to the hose, leave the line going up to the master, UNHOOK the line going to the rear of the truck. Go to the parts store and get a plug to plug the hole in the tee or replace it with an elbow from a parts truck.

Now take the loose line up front and blow thru it with your mouth or compressor until it spews out fluid and air from one of the loose rear lines. Whatever line is blowing in the rear is marked and bent out of the way. Dont kink it as it can be used as a spare rear line if you ever need one on the trail.

Now hook your rear brake hose to the remaining line that was NOT blown out.

Now the valve is completely eliminated and you have an extra rear hardline already installed from front to rear if needed.

Toyota rear brakes still suck and will not overpower the front.
Click to expand...

hey thanx im gona print this out and head into the shop ill let ya know how it works for me:redneck:
 
blue1gen said:
thats what i was kinda thinkin but i put a new master on it so it must be a pin hole in the line or that stupid thing in the back right
Click to expand...

I am only asking this, as there is no response yet to this question. Have you bench bled the new master??:corn:
 
CHOP SHOP said:
either cut off the arm or

do it the right way.

I have removed over 30 of these things over the years. Its easy.

It diverts the extra pressure to the front right tire.

The valve has three lines on it. One is pressure, another is output to the rear hose/tee, the last is a return line going to the front right corner.

If you remove the valve you need to unhook the two lines going back up front (pressure and return). Now go up front and find the right front brake hose, follow it up to the framerail and it will go to a tee under the fenderwell on the framerail. There is only two fitting on the frame right there, a elbow and a tee, the tee is the one you want.

Once you have found the tee, leave the line going down to the hose, leave the line going up to the master, UNHOOK the line going to the rear of the truck. Go to the parts store and get a plug to plug the hole in the tee or replace it with an elbow from a parts truck.

Now take the loose line up front and blow thru it with your mouth or compressor until it spews out fluid and air from one of the loose rear lines. Whatever line is blowing in the rear is marked and bent out of the way. Dont kink it as it can be used as a spare rear line if you ever need one on the trail.

Now hook your rear brake hose to the remaining line that was NOT blown out.

Now the valve is completely eliminated and you have an extra rear hardline already installed from front to rear if needed.

Toyota rear brakes still suck and will not overpower the front.
Click to expand...

CHOP SHOP said:
if he has removed it completely and not plugged the remaining line it will spew fluid front he fronts.

I dont know why anyone mentioned a coupler either?
Click to expand...

If he's not getting anything to the back at all, he must have blocked that return line somehow...
 
CHOP SHOP said:
either cut off the arm or

do it the right way.

I have removed over 30 of these things over the years. Its easy.

It diverts the extra pressure to the front right tire.

The valve has three lines on it. One is pressure, another is output to the rear hose/tee, the last is a return line going to the front right corner.

If you remove the valve you need to unhook the two lines going back up front (pressure and return). Now go up front and find the right front brake hose, follow it up to the framerail and it will go to a tee under the fenderwell on the framerail. There is only two fitting on the frame right there, a elbow and a tee, the tee is the one you want.

Once you have found the tee, leave the line going down to the hose, leave the line going up to the master, UNHOOK the line going to the rear of the truck. Go to the parts store and get a plug to plug the hole in the tee or replace it with an elbow from a parts truck.

Now take the loose line up front and blow thru it with your mouth or compressor until it spews out fluid and air from one of the loose rear lines. Whatever line is blowing in the rear is marked and bent out of the way. Dont kink it as it can be used as a spare rear line if you ever need one on the trail.

Now hook your rear brake hose to the remaining line that was NOT blown out.

Now the valve is completely eliminated and you have an extra rear hardline already installed from front to rear if needed.

Toyota rear brakes still suck and will not overpower the front.
Click to expand...




If you have a larger master and IFS rear brakes adjusted correctly you will most likely have the rears lock up right before the front... I fixed that issue by backing the rear drums off a handful of clicks so the front kicked in first.
 
PHILLBILLY said:
Wow.... Thanks.:looser:

If he puts it back on and wires it up, he desn't have to union the lines. What's the big deal? You can give him your opinion too without bashing mine.:rolleyes:

I simply gave him an easy way of doing it.


Anyhow....I am pretty sure he was asking about removing the ROD not the whole unit. That is what my answer was for.
Click to expand...

Wasnt trying to bash you man. Just trying to prevent him from putting that useless part back in :beer:
 
CHOP SHOP said:
if he has removed it completely and not plugged the remaining line it will spew fluid front he fronts.

I dont know why anyone mentioned a coupler either?
Click to expand...

Not all of them have multipul lines I've seen several with only one line to the rear prop. valve and one line out to the axel
 
Last edited:
Skid Mark said:
Not all of them have multipul lines I've seen several with only one line to the rear prop. valve and one line out to the axel
Click to expand...

I think your full of poop,, but thats my opinion.

Until I see a valve with two lines I wont believe it. It has to send the extra pressure somewhere.
 
WHITE TRASH said:
There were some first gens with no return line I have seen and owned them myself so I know they exist.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look at Jesse's rig (yellow '79 yota in our club) next time we're out wheelin', IIRC his had only one line coming to the LSPV...
 
so my truck is one of those first gen trucks with no return line so i did eleminate that stupid box and it seems to work now i just had to go borrow my buddies vacbleeder and after i got fluid to the back we bleed it like normal and it works
 
blue1gen said:
so my truck is one of those first gen trucks with no return line so i did eleminate that stupid box and it seems to work now i just had to go borrow my buddies vacbleeder and after i got fluid to the back we bleed it like normal and it works
Click to expand...
Glad to hear you got it working:cool:---just be careful on the first couple stops, get used to how it reacts, if it does anything different from before...:awesomework:
 
Ya I recommend this to anyone with a lift or just 33" tires or bigger on your Yoda. It will greatly improve your breaking backing down hills or just stopping on a steep hill. Usually the multi line ones as chopshop mentioned Unless doing a major rear fab I just weld that bar to the frame. the first gen single line ones tend to leak due to no pressure relief so I always just remove and run strait. As far as locking up the rear tires once you have 33"+ tires theres a large enuf radius of tire to prevent it from locking up... Unless your brakes are new, adjusted tight the roads are wet and ur halling ass empty with overinflated tires. You will be ok
 
allrigt i got brakes but not till the bottom of the pedal i removed the box thing and ran a strait line and ive also put the box back in to see if that makes a difference and i got the same results so my question is whats the cheapest master upgrade ive heard somthing about chevy masters in toyotas but i couldt find any thing about it anywere so whats you guys opinions? o yeah and i allready put a new staock master on it
:mad::mad::mad:
 
blue1gen said:
allrigt i got brakes but not till the bottom of the pedal i removed the box thing and ran a strait line and ive also put the box back in to see if that makes a difference and i got the same results so my question is whats the cheapest master upgrade ive heard somthing about chevy masters in toyotas but i couldt find any thing about it anywere so whats you guys opinions? o yeah and i allready put a new staock master on it
:mad::mad::mad:
Click to expand...

you need to fix a problem, not upgrade hoping it will help.

Pump it up 5-10 times till you get the best pedal ever and then stand on them and hold it for over a minute.

Does the pedal drop at all?

Calipers old? rears adjusted? Toy brakes are simple and reliable. Just find the problem.
 

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