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Zuk Based JHF/Goatbuilt Buggy

Damn that's quick, working by yourself those 13 hours? Seems like a nice kit. I've been wondering why the cross bracing behind the seats doesn't tie into the upper corners of the B pillars. Looks like it sets back on the down bars instead. That for more head room behind the occupants?
 
Did the jig / alignment setup come with the chassis kit or was it something you made?
 
it may have been mentioned and I missed it, but I'm curious why the big 2.5" shocks on such a light/low hp rig? I love these chassis, going to be sweet thumb.gif
 
onetoncrawler said:
it may have been mentioned and I missed it, but I'm curious why the big 2.5" shocks on such a light/low hp rig? I love these chassis, going to be sweet thumb.gif

someone once told me...

youve never heard of somebody saying they wish they had less shock, have you? laughing1
 
onetoncrawler said:
it may have been mentioned and I missed it, but I'm curious why the big 2.5" shocks on such a light/low hp rig? I love these chassis, going to be sweet thumb.gif

Those don't look any bigger than a normal Coil Over. Pretty sure the 2.5" is referring to the ID spring Diameter. Which would make the shock body 2.0" :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
 
Blase said:
Those don't look any bigger than a normal Coil Over. Pretty sure the 2.5" is referring to the ID spring Diameter. Which would make the shock body 2.0" :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:

description listed them as 2.5" shocks, that's why I assumed they were the big boys, using 3" springs.

not bashing, just curious. The pic showed a set of bypasses too. Not sure if they are going on here or not?
 
onetoncrawler said:
description listed them as 2.5" shocks, that's why I assumed they were the big boys, using 3" springs.

not bashing, just curious. The pic showed a set of bypasses too. Not sure if they are going on here or not?

And they very well might be 3.0" springs. They just don't look like it to me. I know he bought them as a package deal so if they are bigger shocks its probably cause they were a good deal!
 
That's what I was thinking also, that thing will be so light, figured he would just go air shocks, but I don't Know anything but what the interwebs says and Josh tell us...... :flipoff1:
 
haustow said:
Damn that's quick, working by yourself those 13 hours? Seems like a nice kit. I've been wondering why the cross bracing behind the seats doesn't tie into the upper corners of the B pillars. Looks like it sets back on the down bars instead. That for more head room behind the occupants?

Yes sir, I built the last one out of my head in about 2.5 months. It's best to work on it when you're by yourself without distraction. Honestly you could do it quicker if you didn't clean millscale off. There are little etching marks or pin holes in the tubes to show you exactly where each tube should be placed.

rugger99 said:
Did the jig / alignment setup come with the chassis kit or was it something you made?

It's $300, but plan to share it with anyone semi local to me.

onetoncrawler said:
it may have been mentioned and I missed it, but I'm curious why the big 2.5" shocks on such a light/low hp rig? I love these chassis, going to be sweet thumb.gif

2.0 airshocks seemed to bottom out on big drops even full of oil. 2.5s worked better but are as much as dressed 2.0 coilovers. Found a package deal on these used for a steal and sold the bypasses. I was also told 2.5s like lighter springs than the 2.0s do.
 
onetoncrawler said:
description listed them as 2.5" shocks, that's why I assumed they were the big boys, using 3" springs.

not bashing, just curious. The pic showed a set of bypasses too. Not sure if they are going on here or not?

Blase said:
And they very well might be 3.0" springs. They just don't look like it to me. I know he bought them as a package deal so if they are bigger shocks its probably cause they were a good deal!

zukimaster said:
That's what I was thinking also, that thing will be so light, figured he would just go air shocks, but I don't Know anything but what the interwebs says and Josh tell us...... :flipoff1:

It was a package deal, and yes they are 2.5s. Hoping to be under 2900lbs on the scales, not just on the internet. It will also be on the dyno since I hate internet hoopla HP. For $50, why not see what it's really doing and where it comes in?
 
IMO, not that it means anything or worth anything but I think you're doing the right thing going 2.5's

For what we do, 2.0's are pushing it. Yes you can spring them heavy to compensate but then you have to deal with not enough pre-load etc. Going 2.5's you should be able to spring it correctly and valve it and still have more there should you ever need it.
 
Yep...best I remember the 3" springs will hold up better in the spring rates you'll be using. In other words they won't be as susceptible to bowing and such. Also, the nitrogen charge shouldn't have as much of an impact on getting spring rates correct. Keep the progress coming!
 
all good tech, I've never associated the larger shocks with lighter springs! I've got some homework to do now haha. I'll be watching this one closely. I've tossed around the idea of a similar drivetrain and chassis style for a while now.

keep up the good work :woody:
 
wizzo said:
IMO, not that it means anything or worth anything but I think you're doing the right thing going 2.5's

For what we do, 2.0's are pushing it. Yes you can spring them heavy to compensate but then you have to deal with not enough pre-load etc. Going 2.5's you should be able to spring it correctly and valve it and still have more there should you ever need it.

I agree here for sure - I was debating what to buy a while back and was coming from ORIs so I didnt have much to base it on with this new buggy. The price point of 2.0s combined with "this thing is light and 2.0s should be fine" weighed heavily. Then I talked to a few folks, wizzo being one, which led me to 2.5s; and man am I glad I went with them. Granted, I have seen 2.0s work really well...but it was pretty stone cold simple to get the 2.5s set up with the right springs (light) and it was valved by Phil in one shot to what I feel is perfect for this buggy.
 
Curious to see how the BJE's hold up. I'm just skeptical about the longevity of them. I'd also recommend grabbing a set of the stock replacement 1550 shafts for the front as cheap as they are.
 
Tinkered for a few more hours, sitting at 15 total now.

iV7G7Wih.jpg
 
sleepsontoilet said:
Roof panel, interior panel, skid plates, subframe, link mounts, fixture kit, etc. Every option aside from a GheyK hood.
If you don't mind disclosing, how much was all this and the chassis? Very tempting to do something like this.
 

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