Zuk Based JHF/Goatbuilt Buggy

sleepsontoilet · Jul 9, 2018

untchabl said:
Doubler is looking good, definitely interested in how you like it when you get it installed and wheel it. What upgrades are you doing to the 300?

Every one I've ever ran is a sub $75 junkyard special. I usually put new fluid in it, and reseal it if it leaks too bad. I personally have never broken one in any way behind the two SC3800 buggies. The one I bought already has a super short 32 spline output on the rear already, so no plans to upgrade anything.

sleepsontoilet · Jul 9, 2018

clemsonjeep said:
He does good work from what I've seen. Lookin forward to seeing how it works out for you.

Pretty stoked, Myron called and said he finished my harness and is writing up a booklet for me to help troubleshoot any issues. Apparently the auto isn't something many mess with thinning harnesses on Zuks.

clemsonjeep · Jul 10, 2018

Yeah I'd assume the vast majority of people he does harnesses for are simply dropping the 16v in front of the stock trans in a Samurai.

sleepsontoilet · Jul 19, 2018

Went with the advice of Jesse Haines and cut the spacers down to 1/8" inside the C, so I could get a root pass and attach the C to the tube. Originally the way I had it would have welded the spacer to the tube, then the C would only be welded to the 1/8" spacer. Now I just have to do the same thing for the rear.

sleepsontoilet · Jul 19, 2018

Hopefully closing on the new haus in a couple of weeks, and I can connect the dots making this heap a roller.

Decided to make the rear opposite drop for a few reasons. Due to pinion offset, keeping them both on the same side would've had 2" less tube on the short side and 4.75" of tube wasn't much for shock/link mounts and rear steer. Pinion offset would put the yoke closer to center with it on the drivers side.

Blase · Jul 19, 2018

Looks good! Gotta love the humidity down here.

sleepsontoilet · Aug 2, 2018

Got moved in to the new Haus, and love all the room in the garage. Unfortunately at 60.25" this drivetrain does not fit this chassis well, and everything hits everywhere. Turbo and intake hit the shock to dash tubes, doubler and tcase hit seat mounts, 300 hits rear subframe, trans pan hits front subframe, and the alternator is where the upper link goes. On top of the other issues, it's pending sold, and a new motor is being picked up this weekend if plans go right.

untchabl · Aug 2, 2018

Changing up the entire drivetrain or just the engine?

sleepsontoilet · Aug 2, 2018

untchabl said:
Changing up the entire drivetrain or just the engine?

Engine/Trans for sure. I'd love an Atlas, but not sure it's in the cards.

Bebop · Aug 3, 2018

I'm excited to see what you end up going with !

clemsonjeep · Aug 3, 2018

Whats gonna happen with what you have...the 16v and all that?

Hoping you're still keeping it simple...and light.

sleepsontoilet · Aug 3, 2018

Bebop said:
I'm excited to see what you end up going with !

LSJuan

clemsonjeep said:
Whats gonna happen with what you have...the 16v and all that?

Hoping you're still keeping it simple...and light.

Should all be sold and picked up by Sunday.

Aluminum ? :stir:

TacomaJD · Aug 4, 2018

Lmao

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sleepsontoilet · Aug 4, 2018

TacomaJD said:
Lmao

A little elbow grease, and it'll be ready to stab in the chassis next week.

untchabl · Aug 4, 2018

Not gonna lie, I'm disappointed in the drivetrain change but I'll be following the build regardless.

sleepsontoilet · Aug 4, 2018

untchabl said:
Not gonna lie, I'm disappointed in the drivetrain change but I'll be following the build regardless.

I really liked the idea of it too. I was told the TH180 didn't play well with boost, to go 4 speed. Maybe the 3 speed would fit better? Basically to run it, I would have wasted a lot of time and money. Jesse told me a few days ago when I decided to switch, he had to lengthen the subframe for the Toyota drivetrain to fit. So all the subframe, skids and interior panels I bought wouldn't work. If you bought just the basic chassis and did your own interior it wouldn't be as big of a deal. Hacking up $700-800 worth of stuff to make it fit wasn't something I looked forward to. The whole point in the kit, is to have a professional looking buggy built in a hackjobs garage. Also wasn't really excited about the wiring harness stuff, and being a guinea pig. I like simple and trouble free installs. Crazy I bought the new drivetrain for less than the Zuk stuff cost me. Everything should be picked up tomorrow, so the only expense is fuel system, radiator, and mounts that I would have to incur anyways.

TBItoy · Aug 5, 2018

I like it.

At this point in time building a rig with anything other than an "LS" motor is just trying to be different for the sake of being different (and will usually cost more money and not package as well)

I have an infatuation with the 2.9 4cyl/3.7 5cyl "Atlas" series engines that came in the Colorado, but they just don't make sense to use in a build versus a V8 of the same era...

sleepsontoilet · Aug 5, 2018

TBItoy said:
I like it.

At this point in time building a rig with anything other than an "LS" motor is just trying to be different for the sake of being different (and will usually cost more money and not package as well)

I have an infatuation with the 2.9 4cyl/3.7 5cyl "Atlas" series engines that came in the Colorado, but they just don't make sense to use in a build versus a V8 of the same era...

I was all over the LV3 until I spoke with AJ. Just seems like a lot of work just to be different. Once the aftermarket support is there for things like steering, oil pan, etc it should be a go to for lighter rigs. So I hit up my buddy about another Series III SC3800, and was gonna grab it until I saw the 99 Vette motor for the same price. Kinda made up my mind to go to a lighter motor with more power for the same basic price. Jesse built the chassis for an LS, so most of the work is already figured out and documented.