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Most desirable 14 bolt center for front build

I picked up my 14Bolt out of a '90s squarebody G30 van. That bitch is huge. 4" tubes that are 1/2" thick. Plan on using a d60 housing to turn in into a rear steer axle one day. I dont bounce or race, just a trail rig, but I do beat on it and its held up great with an artec truss over the top.

 
redneckengineered said:
What's the average going rate for one of these "late model with the ribs" 14 bolt axles?
I think I gave 200 for mine. I abandoned that idea and it's just sitting in the corner with the tubes cut off. Come get it if you want
 
redneckengineered said:
This just dropped. Not a lot of info yet.

https://craneaxle.com/magnum-knuckle.html

bbone said:
I think the price is very good...add up what the WOD/EOR cost and this a great deal

That just shot down any dreams I have of a 14b front for a while.. whew that's a lot of coin
 
redneckengineered said:
It can be done WAY cheaper.

I would be interested to see some real world numbers from people who have built one . Other than the $15k + on some of the shop's websites.

I have seen people claim to have built them for what some of us have in a front 60.
 
redneckengineered said:
What year and where are you, got a pic? I may take you up on that.
Lol. I thought everyone knew I was a yankee by now. Unless you get up to PA often I doubt it's worth your while. But here's a pic since you asked so nicely. Not sure of the year.
 
smbroady82 said:
I would be interested to see some real world numbers from people who have built one . Other than the $15k + on some of the shop's websites.

I have seen people claim to have built them for what some of us have in a front 60.

I'm building Trail Gear 9's right now using SD60 knuckles. The aftermarket housing itself is $600 and I have about $300 into the SD60 knuckles that went on them. There was some machine work involved, maybe $500 max. That gets me to $1150 per housing, which is about what one would buy a stock Chevy 60 for. If I had used a JY 14-bolt instead of the aftermarket housing I would be in less than a stock 60. Most people still have to re-gear, add lockers, steering and all that crap so that's all a wash. I built the housings to fit stock-length 60 shafts as well so I can run the shafts from my knuckle donor axles until I need more.

IMG_20160316_162215951-1024x407.jpg
 
Hudson1 said:
Im in the market for a nine housing right now. How do you like the Trailgear housing?

I have no reason to complain about anything yet but I haven't put a shaft in them yet.
 
Can someone tell me the difference between the bearing set from '89 - '96 and '97 - 2011? From what I can tell it is just the pinion seal. I'm ordering parts for this build but I don't have the center yet so I don't want to get something I can't use. If it's just the pinion seal I'm not real concerned.
 

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All the little parts nickeled and dimed me to death when gathering parts for my 60. That's what I get for starting with a bare ford housing and cut down chevy RCVs. Made me never want to start one from scratch ever again. But I guess with a 14 bolt you don't have a lot of choice. ECGS was super helpful with setting me up with the right parts.
 
Hudson1 said:
Im in the market for a nine housing right now. How do you like the Trailgear housing?
Be patient and watch the classifieds. I picked up this pair of 3" 3/8 spidertrax housings for $500. Grabbed a pair of Cs for $100, and reused my 60 outers. The Solid Industries 5x5.5 conversion was $1350 new, but that was before ECGS became my marketing partner. I run off the shelf ford 60 shafts for inners, and chevy outers. The LP Yukon 3.25" nodular 3rd with a spool was $900, and the Zip locker that's being shipped to replace it was $1509. It just depends on how you want it built, and how hard you look for deals. Yes there are stronger knuckles/C's than what I'm running, but the price is a wash to me.

On topic, when I bought the 2004 AAM 14 bolt for my YJ with disc brakes and a govlock, it was $150. Every state is different, I was given a Chevy 60 front a few years ago, and traded a propane grill for the housing, knuckles, and inner shafts of my current 60.

 
Bumping this back up as I picked a late model 14 bolt. 2014 with big tubes and casting.

If you need specific measurements, ask me before I cut it up. Here's what I have :

WMS width is 72"

Tubes are a tad over 4" in diameter with a big taper at the outers :

I used the circumference trick as I didn't have calipers handy.
938671IMG4621.jpg


There is 58" of straight 4" tube from one taper to the other one.
441203IMG4622.jpg


Casting is .700" at the tube
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Only problem I see : There is a drain plug in the casting right in the cutting line if I wanted to turn it into a 13 bolt. I guess I'll have to completely shave it or just live with it.

114642IMG4628.jpg

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Once cut up, I'm gonna put the outers for sale. If someone wants a set of brand new spindles/hubs/brakes for a fabricated housing that would be a great buy.
673667IMG4626.jpg

215665IMG4627.jpg
 
I literally just ran into the same issue with the 13 bolt cover and drain plus the other night as I was getting ready to mark the cut line for my 13 bolt cover. I don't want to do a full shave. Does anyone have any ideas on that? I thought about just cutting and welding the hole but feel like it'll leak like hell.
 
I mentioned that to pholmann yesterday and he told to just weld the plug in place and cut through.
Still on the fence
 
Re: Re: Most desirable 14 bolt center for front build

Bebop said:
I mentioned that to pholmann yesterday and he told to just weld the plug in place and cut through.
Still on the fence
That would work too. I'd weld it from the inside.
 

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