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My Bus,,, My Bus,,, My Bus...

Got a little bit done today... Should be cozy for New Years Eve...
 

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The bus was a hit... Still has a long way to go... Decided to go with a couch rather than a dinette... Both can turn into a bed, but a couch is more comfy and takes less space... Besides, we don't even have a dining room table in the house... The last time we did, it never got used...
 
Gonna tear out the temp bed in the back and build a couple of jack-knife sofas that will fold out into one big bed...

Also decided that I want captain chairs across from the head... Need to find a van with four swivel captain chairs, two for the back and two for the front... That would give us forward facing seats for traveling down the road... They can be turned with a small fold out table between them when parked...

Started the 110 wiring last night... Never wired an RV before so I've been all over google learning about the converter I got from Dan... On the 110 portion of the converter it has 1 20amp breaker, but room for two more... Was thinking I'll buy two more and run the exterior outlets on one, the microwave on it's own and the interior outlets on the third... Then tie the lights, furnace and water pump into the 12v side of the converter... Still not sure where to install the house battery box...
 
Still not sure where to install the house battery box...

I would suggest as near to the same location as the converter so that you do not have to go broke buying the cables to connect between the two...


just an idea though....

two bad those two swivel chairs i have in that 5th wheel weren't captain chairs... i would hook ya up....

since those are about the only furniture that didn't get damaged in that thing.. HAHAHAHA
 
Those chairs would be nice, but I'm wanting something that the boys can sit in with seat belts...

Here's the converter I'm using...
 

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Here's the converter I'm using...


Hoppin 1960 that thing looks :haha:

As far as the breakers I would just get some 15 amp button breakers in a sub panel that is easy to get to

On the INVERTER, you will want a master disconect for both the 110 and 12 V

The 12 V make sure that you install a amp shunt
 
Hoppin 1960 that thing looks :haha:

As far as the breakers I would just get some 15 amp button breakers in a sub panel that is easy to get to

On the INVERTER, you will want a master disconect for both the 110 and 12 V

The 12 V make sure that you install a amp shunt



Please explain...

I have INVERTERS, this is a converter... This one was pulled from a motorhome, not a trailer... If I'm not getting something then show me the way... I don't know **** about RVs, but I'm building one non the less...
 
converter takes "shore power" and converts 120v ac to 12v for 12 functions of the rv. inverters take 12v and converts it to 120v ac.

power generation is made in ac current and converted to dc, so when you convert dc to ac you "invert" the power back to ac.
 
converter takes "shore power" and converts 120v ac to 12v for 12 functions of the rv. inverters take 12v and converts it to 120v ac.

power generation is made in ac current and converted to dc, so when you convert dc to ac you "invert" the power back to ac.



I get that... And thanks...

Still not sure what nowires is getting at...
 
It's a lot more work than I planned on... I knew I was getting myself into a big project, but building an RV from scratch is way more involved than most could imagine...
I can relate. I can think of a lot of things I have undertaken that turned out to be more work than I thought they would be.

Great work...way cooler than most of the RVs out there! :cool:
 
I get that... And thanks...

Still not sure what nowires is getting at...

if you were running a "inverter" you would need to isolate the 120 converter fron the from the inverter, if you didn't you would be trying to charge the 12v house batt with the converter while making 120v with the inverter from the 12v house batt. just a big loop of loss!

you would also want to isolate the fridge if it could run off 120 default.
 
and this


Shunts as circuit protection

When a circuit must be protected from overvoltage and there are failure modes in the power supply that can produce such overvoltages, the circuit may be protected by a device commonly called a crowbar circuit. When this device detects an overvoltage it causes a short circuit between the power supply and its return. This will cause both an immediate drop in voltage (protecting the device) and an instantaneous high current which is expected to open a current sensitive device (such as a fuse or circuit breaker). This device is called a crowbar as it is likened to dropping an actual crowbar across a set of bus bars (exposed electrical conductors).
 
if you were running a "inverter" you would need to isolate the 120 converter fron the from the inverter, if you didn't you would be trying to charge the 12v house batt with the converter while making 120v with the inverter from the 12v house batt. just a big loop of loss!

you would also want to isolate the fridge if it could run off 120 default.



Never said I was running an inverter...
 
I think most rv's run 12v on everything except microwave and rooftop a/c. those you need the generator to run. (obviously outlets as well run on the generator. all sustainables run on gas or 12v. that was how my bounder was. this rig is turning out very nice, great work luey. :awesomework:
 
Here's my .02 on house power, get two golf cart batteries and run them in series, golf cart batteries are 6 volt and are true deep cycle, 12 volt deep cycles aren't true deep cycles because they have to produce cranking amps, my dad was having trouble with his moho house batteries lasting and he went to golf cart batteries and they last way longer, like days longer. :awesomework:
 
Thanks for all the input guys...

I'm gonna try my hand at building a couple of these couches... Went over to donimators today and made some templates out of a keystone light box...:redneck:
 

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