TRG4runner
Well-Known Member
I know it's a ways away but I call dibs on the tires :redneck: (seriously will be interested)
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Top Truck Challange, 2012
- Thread starter TreeClimber
- Start date
I know it's a ways away but I call dibs on the tires :redneck: (seriously will be interested)
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
Also interested in tires. And Tony, edit the title of this thread. The mis-spelling messes with me every time I look at it! :haha:
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
My bad.
The spelling is correct. However the title still is wrong in the forum. Dunno why.
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TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
That's why I have 6 tires. One, mounted and ready to go. And another one, ready to be mounted.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Jeeptech1 came over and gave me a hand.
We got the front shocks lowered .5", to allow the limit straps to take the strain before the shocks bottom out.
And we got the front lockout hubs switched out to drive flanges. Stole (borrowed) the flanges from my YJ rear axle, so it'll be parked for the next 3 months. Warn flanges are solid steel, which is easy to install in a rear axle, as the full floating axle is easy to remove. However the front axle, doesn't come out as easily as the rears, so we machined a threaded hole into the flanges to facilitate removal, as needed.
All easy stuff, and a couple of items we were able to cross off the list.
We got the front shocks lowered .5", to allow the limit straps to take the strain before the shocks bottom out.
And we got the front lockout hubs switched out to drive flanges. Stole (borrowed) the flanges from my YJ rear axle, so it'll be parked for the next 3 months. Warn flanges are solid steel, which is easy to install in a rear axle, as the full floating axle is easy to remove. However the front axle, doesn't come out as easily as the rears, so we machined a threaded hole into the flanges to facilitate removal, as needed.
All easy stuff, and a couple of items we were able to cross off the list.
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
still subscribed :corn:
****.... being lazy or not motivated destroys mine :fawkdancesmiley:
****.... being lazy or not motivated destroys mine :fawkdancesmiley:
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TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Getting close.
The only fabrication thing I have left, is to do the last bit of roll-bar to frame support (behind the driver's seat, at the 'b-pillar' location).
Other than that, its testing, and parts gathering.
And right before I go, it's sealing, venting, and waterproofing.
Got the camper on the truck, new truck tires.... getting close.:awesomework:
The only fabrication thing I have left, is to do the last bit of roll-bar to frame support (behind the driver's seat, at the 'b-pillar' location).
Other than that, its testing, and parts gathering.
And right before I go, it's sealing, venting, and waterproofing.
Got the camper on the truck, new truck tires.... getting close.:awesomework:
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Suspension flex testing
Ramp height 33 inches (30 concrete, 3 inch block wood)
Everything clears nicely, probably could clear 42s.
Going to adjust bump stops accordingly, do some minor relocate of the ground wires on the taillamps, and maybe some tiny trimming in one spot.
Very surprised everything clears nicely.
Still have 1/2 inch uptravel in front, till it hits the fender, but plenty of turning room (behind tire), with 1 inch shock travel left. Should just hit fender, before shocks and bumps limit up travel. Looks like I will have some paint rub. I can live with that.
Ramp height 33 inches (30 concrete, 3 inch block wood)
Everything clears nicely, probably could clear 42s.
Going to adjust bump stops accordingly, do some minor relocate of the ground wires on the taillamps, and maybe some tiny trimming in one spot.
Very surprised everything clears nicely.
Still have 1/2 inch uptravel in front, till it hits the fender, but plenty of turning room (behind tire), with 1 inch shock travel left. Should just hit fender, before shocks and bumps limit up travel. Looks like I will have some paint rub. I can live with that.
Attachments
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I'll make all my adjustments on Tuesday, then back to Dean's shop on Tuesday night for some final roll cage work. After that, it's testing and tuning time. Should have just about 6 weeks to get it dialed in.
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
It looks good:awesomework:
How's the p/s box holding up moving those big tires around?
How's the p/s box holding up moving those big tires around?
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Has a PSC pump, which seems to be doing fine.
I worry about the OEM box.
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
Didn't mean to worry you :frown:
I just have a buddy with a tj and his box does not like the 34s... But his is stock pump as well
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
You didn't worry me at all. My box turns 37s just fine. However the sector shaft is the weakest link on my entire steering system, and I know it. There is a Dodge Durango box that is a direct replacement, and is pretty cheap. However it uses a bushing instead of a bearing to support the shaft. The good news, the sector shaft is larger, and stronger.
If only I can talk PSC into 'donating' a steering box as I've already spent wayyy too much.
If the test next Sunday goes well, I'll leave this box alone.
If the test next Sunday goes poorly, I'll call O'Reillys, and maybe PSC.
gas is on the right
Well-Known Member
I really like everything you have done....im pretty excited to watch it work....hope everything works good for you ....good luck
So with the sector shaft being larger does that mean larger at the splines or just the part of the shaft in the box itself ? If the splines are larger what do you do about a pittman arm ?
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I'm less worried about snapping the sector shaft (although I understand it's stronger) but that the gear on the shafts are larger, which allows more turning power (without having to go to a ram assist). As I understand it, the Durango box is physically larger, with larger shaft, but happens to have both the correct mounting locations, and correct input shaft (to fit a TJ) and my existing pitman arm. IF I recall correctly, they only made the box for a couple years. Tom (Jeeptech1) has done this conversion, with good results.
I guess what I'm trying to type, is that I've got a lot of pump pressure, but I'm not sure I can get the box to accept that pressure to turn the wheels. I'm hoping the larger box will be able to give me more 'ooomph'.
edit: 98 or 99 Durango, 318 V8, NOT the snow plow option.
edit continued: You can read about it via Google, but these idgits are worried about upgrading from 31s to 33s and it's crackin me up
Nice little write up: http://www.universityofjeep.ca/Tech/Durango/Steering_box_conversion.html
This guy was OK
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2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
awesome tony :awesomework:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
edit continued: You can read about it via Google, but these idgits are worried about upgrading from 31s to 33s and it's crackin me up
Nice little write up: http://www.universityofjeep.ca/Tech/Durango/Steering_box_conversion.html
This guy was OK
You outta sign up and post a question asking if the Durango box upgrade will be good for 35's! :redneck: then sit back and watch the ensueing comedic responses :haha:
