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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Hypothetical question?
- Thread starter Dirt700
- Start date
Re:
I think sd front and 14 rear will be a good setup for me. I'm guessing the ball joints are holding pretty good nowadays. They are larger and easier to maintain than the kp's. And there is some really good after market ball joints out there.TBItoy said:
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
Someone else might know better but I think someone was working on modifying the C's and knuckles to accept lower balljoints in the upper position. I've only been out on 4 or 5 rides but my moogs are still tight.
BLGXJ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2015
- Messages
- 236
Beerj said:
I believe it was alltech motorsports, They had a few setups running around, but not sure they went into production with it. There is also someone in the facebook group "rockbuggies" that has a machined bushing and bolt setup to replace the upper bj on an 05+ axle
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
The lowers are considerably larger. I probably won't bother looking into that upgrade until one of these fails.Dirt700 said:
mac5005
Well-Known Member
Dirt700 said:
Have you thought about the ECGS ultimate HP 60 front. You can run the super 60 gear set and whatever knuckle/spindle/hub you want.
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
I didn't read the whole thread so this may have been covered but knowing a little about this subject I figured I would throw in my opinion.
If you're starting from scratch on a custom build axle (i.e. you're going to run aftermarket shafts, knuckles, gears, etc) it is about the same money to build a 40 spline 14 bolt front as it would be to build a 35 spline HP60 and in some cases it may be cheaper.
99% of 40 spline stuff is 4340. No real need for 300m in that big of a shaft. I've seen the numbers and 40 spline 4340 is stronger than 300m 35 spline by a considerable margin.
I would not even consider running 40 spline on any sort of 60/70 gearset with a 29 spline baby **** pinion. Waste of money.
If you're starting from scratch on a custom build axle (i.e. you're going to run aftermarket shafts, knuckles, gears, etc) it is about the same money to build a 40 spline 14 bolt front as it would be to build a 35 spline HP60 and in some cases it may be cheaper.
99% of 40 spline stuff is 4340. No real need for 300m in that big of a shaft. I've seen the numbers and 40 spline 4340 is stronger than 300m 35 spline by a considerable margin.
I would not even consider running 40 spline on any sort of 60/70 gearset with a 29 spline baby **** pinion. Waste of money.
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
BUG-E J said:
I couldn't disagree with this post more.
40 spline chromo > 300m 35 spline not even close
2" shafts in a 14 bolt complete waste of money
If you're seeing 40 spline fronts break shafts your buddies need to find better shaft builders or straighten their housings.
IMO the ultimate bulletproof "trail bouncer" axle on a relative budget would be 14 bolt center, 05+ SD knuckles, 4340 40 spline inner and outer shafts from Branik, 1550 factory Spicer u-joints. That axle will wipe its ass with any LP60 HP60 SD60 Super60 whateverthefuckcryotreated60, etc etc and dollar for dollar nothing else comes close. Again IMHO :****:
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wizzo
Well-Known Member
BLGXJ said:
alltech was modifying the older superduty knuckles. '04 and older. That is what most of the spidertrax/ currie etc stuff is based off of
In the beginning I was asking about building a 35 spline 14 bolt on d60 knuckles with 300m shafts, then I asked if 40 spline in Yukon shafts would be as good because it was cheaper on me. And know it's useless pretty much for 40 spline on 60 knuckles. Then everyone suggested an 05+ sd 60 with 300m, would be alot cheaper and be good on a sub 500hp buggy. I could afford a big knuckle 14 once I sell my buggy, but I don't think I need it and it would take away money from tires, coilovers, etc.redneckengineered said:
wizzo
Well-Known Member
I'm running a stock 6.0 with custom dyno tune, 295 horsepowers to the ground. Front axle, I've twisted 35 spline 4340 foote stub shafts on 39" krawlers. I've also broken a 35 spline CTM 300m stub shaft on 43' stickies. Broken probably 3 factory GM 14 bolt shafts in the rear. So far so good on 40 spline brand (mark williams) 4340 stock replacement shafts. IMO, talking front axles, if you're running what you have already (dana 60 hp or lp) 35 spline 300m will probably hold up for most folks with out big hp.
I also agree that 4340 40 spline is superior to 35 spline 300m. As long as we're talking quality shaft material in both cases.
I also agree that 4340 40 spline is superior to 35 spline 300m. As long as we're talking quality shaft material in both cases.
wizzo
Well-Known Member
Dirt700 said:
I dunno, more hp than what I have? LOL I'm just sharing my experience with what I've ran with a stock 6.0L. I'm just a trail rider that likes to hit challenging trails/obstacles.
I'm on a budget just like anyone else. I can't afford 10" trophy truck center section axles, 2" or gun drilled shafts, etc. IMO what we have available to us now in this hobby/ sport (LS engines, 43" stickies, etc), 35 spline shafts, even 300m aren't gonna be up to task. If you plan correctly, I think you can get more for your money. Instead of just using what everyone has used for the past 15+ years.
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
Dirt700 said:
I didn't start having problems with 35 spline 300m and blowing HP60 ring and pinions until I built my stroker motor. It was a true engine dyno 530hp but a lot more torque than your typical cam/tune build. Before that it was a cam/tune 500+ hp and no issues. So, somewhere it that area. Keep in mind the torque factor
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
redneckengineered said:
I wonder what the price difference would be in the 40 spline 14b axle you described vs
A 05+SD60 with a Currie 35 spline pinion HP70 gear set and 40 spline spool.
???
Assume using the same shafts in either (you could just as easily upgrade to the big boy RCVs like you have)
Also assuming you are using the stock SD60 housing
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