2rz-fe swap

[Thanatos]

:beer:

 

[megatoy66]

your smart.... :awesomework:

No...........he's "special"

 

[crash2]

Ok so time to try and figure out what to do with the header..

So I thew it on real quick and figured out how I wanted it to turn and marked it..

So here is where I get nervous--just for the fact that my TIG experiance is pretty slim and I really hate to have a lil learning curve on somebody elses stuff that wasn't a cheap part..


So next I cut a slit out of the header

So since I havn't had a chance to get any filler rod--I was able to weld up where the material butted but nicely--ya don't laugh--you can after its done,lol..

 

[crash2]

So I tossed it back into the rig to see how it sat..

Well I have 1/4" clearance to the frame rail--and I might be able to notch it one more time--but it gets really close to where it starts to widen out to where all the tubes meet.. My other idea it to flatten the header a but to clearance it to the frame.. Once I get some filler rod and fully weld it up I will make a decision...

 

[crash2]

Ok--so time for a lil update--been bouncing between the rig and redoing the roof over my porch..

So I went and tig'd the header up--and to show I am not perfect--here is how it turned out--ya I DO NEED alot of practice but the weld got good penetration and I can't forsee any isses with it--fawk that looks like **** lol. Kinda funny how you get so used to mig and throw a rod back into the game. I did a total noob move and grabbed the end of the HOT rod--ouch,lol..

I also flattened the side that faces the frame so now there is 3/8" of a inch of clearance. I looked it over to see if I could cut and turn it some more--but it gets into where the header starts to taper outward to meet where the 4 tubes join---just not going to happen.

So I went and bent/re-routed the brake lines and gained all the needed clearance for the header--with that done I installed the header for the final time....

 

[crash2]

So somebody stopped by and dropped me a bunch of goodies....

So once again I called over the neighbor--since I am too much of an idiot to do anything,lol...


So rome got a cooler for the power steering---hell parts don't do any good sitting there,lol..

So I figured a good spot for it and made mounts. It actually fir just PERFECT where it is---an inch bigger and it would have been a chore to fit,lol. The only down side is he got 5/16" hose and its all 3/8---but I got it to fit nicely,lol...

 

[crash2]

So he also ordered a new rad that was all alumimun and a tad thinner than the one that was in the rig. He also grabbed a fan he had stuff away. So before I did anything I went and did some test fitting----I think this will work nicely...

So one thing I really hate--are those damn push thru mounts for fans--and I try to not use them unless its a last resort. In this case--I did what I have before (my rig is the same way).

I went and made mounts that go from the stock shroud holes to the fan itself--and then used foam strips so the fan doesn't rest against the cores. So if this fan was 1/8" wider at the flat spots--it would not have fit--it was that close. So I went and wired it so its a full on drop in uint(and can be removed easily also).

As you can see--it fits NICELY--with roughly 3/4" clearance...

Connectors for the fan and temp sensor..

 

[crash2]

So since the rad was in---I figured I would look into the hoses. Well I was pretty suprised--the stock taco hoses were almost a PERFECT. I had to remove 1" off each hose on the motor side....

 

[crash2]

Got the power steering hoses all done up...

So the only thing thats keeping me from filling the cooling system is the heater hoses. Well one problem I had to get past--the water control valve when bolted to the firewall was hitting the EGR. So I was origionally going to cut the mount and shorten it so it was closer to the firewall. Well I looked at it some more--and found I was able to bend the bracket so the valve was closer to the firewall and slightly twisted. Gave about 1/4" clearance to the egr valve---should work nicely. But I found the stock taco hose that went to the valve to be too short and ended up lenghthing the hose roughly 6" with a piece of metal/hose clamps. The other hose was long enough to come up and over the water valve and right onto the heater core.

 

[crash2]

So one thing that bugged me was how sharp of a turn the accell cable made right at the firewall. Well I found that if I removed a couple coolant hoses(to some valve) and vacuum lines--I was able to snake the cable into the intake a little to where it starts to bend near the tps. From there it wrapped around and hooked onto the stock cable fixture and around..

So at this point I had to figure out how to do the air intake/MAF sensor--when it hit me... Rome had an aftermarket air intake on the rig for the 3.0--and that gave me all the parts needed.

So I used the stock air intake piece that went over the valve cover--and one of the rubber elbo's to mount the MAF to that--it worked just perfect and made for a very stout mount..

I will have to shorten up the harness to the maf--its too long and looks like poooopie,lol....

So on that aftermarket setup--there was a mount that bolted to the AFM to hold the air filter. Well I got to looking at it--and I think it just might to the trick.

So I cut the inner area out of it and ground it smooth..

I had to redril new holes--but it fit like a glove...

Talk about a bad picture,lol--but as you can see it will work..

 

[crash2]

So--next I gotta figure out how to do more than idle--since thats all it has,lol..

The cable it a tad short to fit into the stock cable holder....

As you can see by the red. So I am going to start by re-working the accel pedal and see if that will give me enough--it will be pretty close looking at the pedal--stay tuned,lol..


I also shot a video--but can't find the codec to be able to use a quicktime video in windows movie maker

 

[crash2]

:redneck:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtvU...ttp://s3.ytimg.com/vi/rtvUgRcvTno/default.jpg

 

[Jeepless]

Hot labs....:011:

 

[crash2]

Ok so my plan was to just cut the origional accell bracket and modify that. You can see the line where the cable needs to sit for some adjustment either direction..

Well I decided to scrap that idea and just whip out a new one...

Now the throttle cable has just the right amount of adjustment to go either way

 

[crash2]

So one thing I still need to do with the brakes--is kill one of the lines to the rear perportioning valve. I haven't modded on of these things since the late 90's so my memory isn't too good. What line is the pressure in and the return? Since they go behind the damn fuel tank I can't see em...

Or does it even matter?

 

[crash2]

Hot labs....:011:

Its almost ready to :redneck:

 

[Jeepless]

Its almost ready to :redneck:

I think that is the best part!

Looks good mike!

 

[Thanatos]

Now all I need are some 2RZ emblems... too bad Toyota didn't make any.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

So one thing I still need to do with the brakes--is kill one of the lines to the rear perportioning valve. I haven't modded on of these things since the late 90's so my memory isn't too good. What line is the pressure in and the return? Since they go behind the damn fuel tank I can't see em...

Or does it even matter?

find the front right corner flex hose and follow it up to the 3way on the frame unhook it and then unhook the rears and blow through the one at the front hose/splitter. I think its the top one, I think.

I just take an old fitting and weld it shut for a plug at the splitter.

why all the trouble of tigwelding the exhaust? the exhaust shops dont even do that? and it would weld fine with the mig.

looks good:beer:

 

[crash2]

Problem was fixed lats night :awesomework:

The header is stainless :awesomework: