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6.0 Horsepower upgrades?

Throttle body will be aftermarket if it needs to be cable.
Ok thats what I was thinking/told.
Heres what I got.
6.0, L92 heads, intake from a 2010 corvette.
So what I will need is.
Cam, what lift? Springs, and a 90/92 mm throttle body. Probably go with drive by wire on the throttle body.
I can use the stock MAF? All my internals are good as far as rings pistons rods. Fuel pump needs to be upgraded to push more fuel. I will also need to modify my rails to flow through so to cool my fuel better.
So if I do the above I should be good to go, and get upwards of 525hp at the flywheel, and somewhere around 450+-hp at the rear wheels. I can live with that. I take it that no one on this board has did this, and this all interweb truth.
 
Which are you wanting. DBW or Cable?

I've had both on the same car, and really preferred the DBW over the cable. Though the cable was a Lokar and wasnt that high of quality.
Since I've been using Teleflex Morse cables from RexMarine for controls, the shortest they make though is a 5'. www.rexmar.com They are so much smoother than the Lokar cable.
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=cables


I'm using them for thottle, fuel shutoff, and Primary and Secondary parachutes on our salt car. Ben Minden turned me on to them out at KOH.
 
Going with a 6.0 and wondering if there are any good take out cams from other LS motors that would be an improvement over a stock 6.0 cam? Found a few LS1 cams for cheap and was wondering if they are a decent upgrade
 
Matt O. said:
Going with a 6.0 and wondering if there are any good take out cams from other LS motors that would be an improvement over a stock 6.0 cam? Found a few LS1 cams for cheap and was wondering if they are a decent upgrade
depends how much lift you are wanting. But I would look at Thunder Racing for a cam, they have the "Old Man Cam" that is a good start on a stock motor.
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by/category/Cylinder-Heads-and-Valvetrain/Camshafts/Thunder-Racing-CheaTR-Series-Cams_944.html
"Old Man Cam" - 214/220 .600/.523 115 LSA This is the perfect cam for someone looking for a stock range power band and stock sounding idle. Significant horsepower gains throughout the RPM range. No computer tuning required. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended."
 
As far as DBW vs. DBC, its cheapest to stick with whatever your motor came with. Its individual preference in terms of what people like more though.

I'm not familiar with cams as I haven't made the commitment to cam my engine yet and haven't done the research, sorry. If you don't want to do the research to find what cam will be best for you or feel like you aren't smart enough GM does sell "hot cams" which are slightly souped up versions of the stock cams.

Brad, you probably won't see 460 at the tires because that was a dyno on a Corvette that only went through a manual trans and axle gears. You'll have more loss from the slushbox, t-case, deeper gearing, and tires. While generally accepted loss on those sports cars is around 25%, estimated on rock buggies can be upwards of 50%. Billavista posted his chassis dyno of his old engine which was suppossed ot be 250 at the flywheel on Pirate once. Through his buggy to the ground he was dynoing like 120 or something like that. :wtflol: But Yes, you are getting the point. In that thread I linked he gives the exact specs on the custom grind cam that he used. If you do the exact same setup you should see similar results. If you shave the heads / block you should see a bit more at the flywheel than he had.

Just to iterate a bit more on the shaving issue, the stock LS3 / L92 heads have a lower static compression ratio than the stock 6.0 heads did. To get it back to where it should be you have to shave material off to reduce the compression chamber volume. If you do just the block or just the heads you screw with the alignment of the head bolt threads slightly. It is minimal but theoretically they will not line up properly anymore which may lead to uneven clamping force and / or stripping the threads. Thus, it is best to do both the block and heads an equal amount. That requires removing the engine though which is why that guy with the Corvette didn't do it.

And remember, you can't get the most out of your engine without paying someone to dyno-tune it with a wideband o2.

Finally, yes, this is all just internet / literature research on my part. (Which I do a lot of.) I plan on running my LS2 bone-stock for now and upgrading over time. I have also purchased HPTuners and my own wideband as building these engines is a hobby that I intend to get into long-term. I will tune my stock LS2 until I feel I've got the most out of it and know what I'm doing and then I will upgrade heads, cam, etc. Eventually I intend to buy or build an engine dyno. Basically, when my body is too beat up to keep wheeling I'll build these engines for fun, maybe make some money doing it. :)

J. J.
 
He's posted in the thread as recently as two days ago and he has a good trader rating so I wouldn't give up. If you miss out though this guy often has them for sale:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1230173-fs-l92-823-lsa-863-heads.html

And like I said, l92 heads in those price ranges are very common on that site.

Keep in mind, to run the L92 heads you need l92 exhaust rockers and pedestals. Not very expensive in the grand scheme but if you can find heads with thema lready there you'll save yourself about $120 or so.

J. J.
 
So would getting be L92 heads and running them stock be better then getting port work done on the stock lq4 heads?
 
here is list so far
LS3 Intake, do I need the fuel rails and injectors or will my ls1 stuff work with the ls3 intake
L92 heads
L92 exhaust rockers and pedestals
Some Cam?
Custom tune
What else

Will my stock throttle body on my ls1 intake work?
 
I'm not sure what the head flow characteristics of LQ4 heads are but probably so. L92 heads are amazing heads and flow better than a lot of aftermarket heads. In fact most people agree that porting L92's isn't even necessary until you get into stroker motor CIDs.

Cole, I'm sorry, I forgot what engine you're running but the LS3 / L92 heads require a 4" dia. bore or larger due to the intake valves being big enough to intefere with smaller bore engines. A 5.7L or smaller displacement engine has too small a bore.

But to run L92 / LS3 heads on a 4" bore engine you need the heads, the rockers, rocker pedestals, intake. I'm sorry, I don't know if LS1 injectors fit but even if they did they may not flow enough. You would be running a 350hp injector on an engine with over 500 hp and I ssupect they might max out on duty cycle. I'm not sure about TB's either but I *think* any of the 90mm TB's should work. I know my LS2 90mm TB works on the L92 / LS3 intake as I have done that research. Don't know about rails either. :-\

I think I'm starting to confuse people here. The L92 RPO code is for the performance 6.2L truck engine. Thus, if you get an L92 intake it will be a truck intake. If you need a car intake you need either an LS3 intake or L76 intake. GM sells an all-inclusive L76 intake that comes with injectors, and rails for like $500 or so. I don't have the part number right now. Its generally believed that the truck / car intakes were similar to the old-school single vs. dual plane manifolds where the car intake gives you more top-end power at the sacrifice of low end and the truck giving more low-end torque at the sacrifice of top-end power. Both flow great though. I intend to run a truck intake because I have space and people practically give them away. I also won't have to swap out all my accessories to fit the car intake as I currently have a truck intake.

LS3 is the RPO code for the car engine. LS3 heads differ from L92 heads in the valves only. One has solid valves while the other has light-weight sodium-filled valves. I don't remember exactly which right now but for us it doesn't really matter as both versions should hold up to our power levels. When you start gettting into crazy cams and huge 700hp + power levels is when it matters.

So you can run LS3 or L92 heads on a 4" or larger bore engine with any of the L92, LS3, or L76 intakes, all of which will net basically the same results.

Also, if you have the LS2 243 casting heads you can sell them to an LS1 guy to recoup the cost fo the L92 heads as the 243 heads are a major upgrade to an LS1 as L92 / LS3 heads are a major upgrade to an LS2. I see the 243 heads go complete for about $500 a lot on ls1tech.com.

J. J.
 
Oh, then you're golden! I would double check the injectors and TB though.

J. J.
 
COPPERHEAD42 said:
is it a all stock 6.0 besides that? lq4 or lq9? urs seems to run pretty good as is

lq9. Yeah just ls1 intake, injectors and ls1 cam, thats it. It runs good, but it could always use more ;D
 
why did u choose ls1 intake? unless you didnt have room for the truck intake but I always heard the truck intake is better for what we do
 
COPPERHEAD42 said:
why did u choose ls1 intake? unless you didnt have room for the truck intake but I always heard the truck intake is better for what we do

I didn't have room for the Truck intake, plus the ls intake makes it look alot cleaner.
 
Cole you don't need more power, but if your LS1 stuff doesn't work let me know.... I need the top end stuff for mine

Also can someone tell me why you can't post on LS1 TECH? I tried to post in for sale adds and wtb and it will not let me
 
Matt O. said:
Cole you don't need more power, but if your LS1 stuff doesn't work let me know.... I need the top end stuff for mine

Also can someone tell me why you can't post on LS1 TECH? I tried to post in for sale adds and wtb and it will not let me

let's me post without a problem
 
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