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6.5" lift kit

nothing is goin to be cheap. honestly! my suggestion would be to start small 3.5" from rubicon with SYE and CV driveshaft. or save until you can do everthing at one time. i know it sucks waiting and saving but its the smartest way of goin about it.
 
ive got the money to go all the way right now i was just wondering if i could get any of these things at a cheeper price somewhere or other alternitatives
 
your listening to a guy with a zj on a 3 inch lift about rustys products, i run mostly rustys and they flex damn good, and tough as hell, rubicon is good as well, if your looking for most bang for your buck, go with the re 5.5 or rustys 6,dont forget about sye and drivelins either. remember whos feeding you the info
 
I'm running the RE 5.5" kit clearing 35's w/mild trimming and bumpstops. I'm also impressed w/the Clayton stuff. I wouldn't buy anything other than those two brands if I ever built another XJ.
 
So they flex really good then.
Wut about on the street. Thats when the Disconnects are used correct? (im new to this stuff and im learning slowly.. The removable sway bar correct?)
 
hah, that's funny I had the same problem with Rusty's. Damn thing started to sag, the track bar absolutely sucked. I had a BITCH of a time getting all of the parts I needed. They kept screwing up and sending me the wrong stuff. I'd have to ship things back. Some times it'd take them over a month to ship the new parts. And since I bought everything they offered for the Grand Cherokee at the time, there were plenty of parts for them to screw up. They even sent two different length control arms in the SAME DAMN BOX. No way in hell I'd ever buy from them again.. Yea it flexed well.. But it's got damn coils on all 4 corners.. How can it NOT get some decent flex.
 
Keep the sway bar connected on the street and for mild wheeling. If you need a lot of flex, disconnect the sway bar on the trail. I've wheeled all over naches, evans, elbe w/o ever disconnecting my swaybar b/c I was lazy. :redneck:
 
i thought it was easy to disconnect the sway bar. Have you had to replace anything because of a sagging rig dr drae?
 
i have to XJ right now. one with 6.5 rustys long arm lift and the other with a RE5.5 with Claytons. the trackbar like i said has been replaced twice and it took rustys atleast 3 months to warranty it. my rear of the rustys sit about 4.5 right now. you get what you pay for. my RE lift rides so much better. seriouly check out NAXJA.ORG see first had their experiences.

if you are looking for cheap pricing for RE get ahold of DC4WD and PORC on naxja.org, cheapest i have found
 
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wut if u were to put in other shocks other than the rusty's ones. Would that help at all or not.
 
I have the Skyjacker 6" Long arm double flex kit, and it is the best (as far as kits go) Rubicon is a close second, but Skyjacker rides and drives better, and also has a tad more flex, a friend of mine has a TJ just like mine but he has the RE 5.5 and wishes that he got the Skyjacker. Just my two cents, also I have used Skyjacker on my last three rigs and have never had any problems with them besides the click click noise from the heims.
 
Iv Never Ran Anything From Clayton, But Like I Said Re Is Good, The Reason I Went With Rustys Is The 9 Inch Front Coils, My Track Bar Is Custom Built, So Iv Never Had Problems, But I Have Rustys Steering Strenghtening Stuff And It All Is Tough, Get The Swaybar Disconnects, It Disconnects With The Pull Of A Pin And Adds Much More Flex
 
how much was your custom track bar.. What is a track bar? does it come with the 6.5" lift kit or do you have to get it seperate
 
i built my t bar, but i really suggest the re 5.5 lift, it is the most complete kit(lower& upper control arms trackbar, springs, brake lines, ect) and it reasonably cheap and tough, then order an sye and driveline through tom woods or advanced adapters, youd be spending a little over 2 gs
 
redyj said:
your listening to a guy with a zj on a 3 inch lift about rustys products
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and why shouldn't he? my friend has bought numerous rusty's products and ALL have failed. i'm sure rusty's doesn't just make crappy zj stuff and makes uber strong xj stuff.

xjoffroad said:
i have to XJ right now. one with 6.5 rustys long arm lift and the other with a RE5.5 with Claytons. the trackbar like i said has been replaced twice and it took rustys atleast 3 months to warranty it. my rear of the rustys sit about 4.5 right now.
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call me crazy but a lift shouldn't settle 2"
 
Dude what you got to do is part your lift together, alot of these name brand lifts are using the same spring manufactr. They just put there name on them now. Rusty's, RE, Sky jacker use the same company. Rustys has come a long ways with there lift kits. I would do the rear leafs, coils from RE and but the Clayton or TnT customs long arm kit and put that together. Make sure you pick up the Advance Adapter SYE with the Tom Woods drive shaft. That is $400 well worth it. The long arm kits are going to run around $1500, and your springs are going to be $600???? cant really remember the price. Also get a new trackbar/drop bracket. You are going to have to regear too if you are going with a tire bigger than a 33". While you regear you mine as well put in lockers while the casing is off. So there is going to be no cheap way. Just do it right!
 
tommyjohnston said:
Dude what you got to do is part your lift together, alot of these name brand lifts are using the same spring manufactr. They just put there name on them now. Rusty's, RE, Sky jacker use the same company. Rustys has come a long ways with there lift kits. I would do the rear leafs, coils from RE and but the Clayton or TnT customs long arm kit and put that together. Make sure you pick up the Advance Adapter SYE with the Tom Woods drive shaft. That is $400 well worth it. The long arm kits are going to run around $1500, and your springs are going to be $600???? cant really remember the price. Also get a new trackbar/drop bracket. You are going to have to regear too if you are going with a tire bigger than a 33". While you regear you mine as well put in lockers while the casing is off. So there is going to be no cheap way. Just do it right!
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This guy REALLY doesn't need to go overboard at the very beginning. He still has to figure out what the track bar is. He's got a bit of learning to do. Hell a 2" spacer with 31's and some trail runs will get him started atleast.
 

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