6.5" lift kit

bbush · Mar 17, 2007

oh you could find a dana 35 at a junk yard. cause thats what they are. JUNK :haha: you DO NOT want a dana 35.

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

ok then a dana 44?? is what i want. price range/ where to find.

what happens if i keep my stock axle on the XJ with 33" tires and only do moderate wheeling

bbush · Mar 17, 2007

well that depends on a couple things, which axles you have, if you're going to throw in lockers, and how much a lead foot you have.

33's are usually fine on open axles. i'm willing to bet you have an 8.25 in the rear and not a dana 35. so 33's should be fine.

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

i found a dana 60 for the rear and a dana 44 for the front for $200. should i get it.

Are those axles too big to put on my XJ.

If so you said i should be just fine with normal axles with 33's right?

bbush · Mar 17, 2007

200 for the pair? cause **** i'd love that set up :redneck: those would not be a direct bolt in you'd have to get new bracketry, and probably shorten them...i'm not too sure, i haven't looked into that yet cause i can't afford new axles. :booo:

and yes you should be fine running 33's

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

here they are. i probally wont do that cause im not smart enough to do that quite yet.

So i should be fine with the stock axle??

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/292250124.html

Lucky Jeff · Mar 17, 2007

Just put the lift on, throw the tires on, and run till it brakes. Then fix it!

redyj1 · Mar 17, 2007

a d 35 has a more round diff, and a 8.25 has a more squarish diff, an 8.25 is plenty strong enough to run 33s and an open d35 is strong enough to run 33s, if you have a d35 rear, id suggest replacing it with an 8.25, they are not as strong as a d44 but they are signifacantly stronger than a d35 and a very cheap, bolt in replacement, so heres what you need to do, 1.buy the re 5.5 lift kit, sye and rear drivleine, and some 33s of your choice, that is your first step to building your rig, next, if a d35,2. replace the rear axle with a xj d44, 8.8, or an 8.25, put 4.56 or 4.88 gears in the axles, and if you have the money, 3.add lockers. so take it a step at a time, this is the best way to go, no more questions, just do it.

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

will do

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

wut kind of drive shaft should i get. Tom Woods?
Should i get the SYE from RE also? or should i buy it somewhere else.

redyj1 · Mar 17, 2007

advanced adapters makes a nice hevy duty sye kit, id prefer them, then get a driveline from a local driveline shop or tom woods, your choice, niether one is better or worse, just a difference in prices

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

to everyone who has posted on this thread i appriciate the help and the patience with me. It has helped me a lot. ive learned so much more than what i used to in just a few days!
I know i still have a lot to learn (i still kinda dont know what a pitman arm is:wtf: )

so this is what i plan on doing..
Go with the heavy duty 5.5" RE lift with a new SYE and a new Drive Shaft.

(any seggestions for some decent 33" tires?)

Littlexj · Mar 17, 2007

At 5.5 I'd go with 35's if your only going to run 33's go with 4.5" lift and trim the fenders as needed. I had 6" lift with 33's for a couple weeks and it was too much lift for the size of tires. For tires I've heard that Avanteone can get trxus mt's for a good price and I've heard good things about them. PM him for prices on the tires as well as the lift.

rooneypower · Mar 17, 2007

if i go with the 4.5 RE lift will i still need the SYE and CV driveshaft?
The 5.5" RE lift came with everything needed, is the 4.5" RE lift the same way, ready to go?

redyj1 · Mar 18, 2007

believe me, a 5.5 with 33s is perfect for what your looking for,, i would prefere bfg mts, goodyear mtrs, or firestone destination, super swampers are not too good on the road

bbush · Mar 18, 2007

33" Goodyear MT/R's. i have some 31's and they grip the **** out of whatever i have thrown at them. i really doubt i'll ever own another type of tire besides the MT/R

Avanteone · Mar 18, 2007

5.5" RE kit, but ditch their longarm setup. Run everything in the RE kit except their arms, add the Clayton's long arms and you're DONE. The RE arms are a half-assed effort in an attempt to make the kit bolt-on. You have to drill like 50 holes to make it work. Some components should just be welded on (like the Clayton's crossmember). I got your PM on PNWJeep and have just been very busy. I will get back to you /w pricing on Monday, but the RE kit /w Clayton's long arms is about the same price as the full RE kit /w their arms.

John