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9" axles

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cole
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Cole

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So how many broken 9's did you guys see at Jellico?
I heard Adam Carter cracked the center section, how did that happen?
Just trying to get some info to see if these are Rock Bouncer approved.
 
Nolen will way in on this. He can tell you all you want to know.

Rusty lost another Currie r&p.
 
cale anyreason you arent going HP60 front & 14bolt rear? Too tried and true? not enough bling bling?
 
If I were building I would go narrowed 60 Front and LP 9" rear, a 14b is just too much of a heavy pig in a lightweight rig
 
BamaTJ said:
If I were building I would go narrowed 60 Front and LP 9" rear, a 14b is just too much of a heavy pig in a lightweight rig
Click to expand...

Matt nailed it. I am going for under3,500lbs
I don't want a Boat anchor in the rear and yes I will have some bling. I believe a Nodular case should hold up. If a 9" will hold up for Greg Stones buggy , then it should be good enough for me.
 
Damn and I'm pretty sure I'm going to ditch my rearsteer for a narrowed and SHAVED AS FAWK 14 bolt. :eek:
 
InDaShop said:
Damn and I'm pretty sure I'm going to ditch my rearsteer for a narrowed and SHAVED AS FAWK 14 bolt. :eek:
Click to expand...

Damn, I didn't see that coming. I would probably go 9 before I put that heavy bastard in there.
 
Cole... my .02 knowing how you ride and were you ride. A 9" is going to be a problem for you . If your building COMP rig and money wasnt a concern id say sure. But we all see 9" failures in this sport, and the type of full throttle assaults you put on a rig, I just see you tearing them up frequently.

I like Matt's "new rig" setup. Has big axles and is still a light rig. Look at Brian Shirley's rig. He's running 60s and I dont know that he has had many if any axle issues outside of the broke ass housing he pulled off last year. :eek:

I dont think its an issue of having weight more so than were your carring your weight. :popcorn:

( this thread is gonna get intersting I bet )
 
Just remember this, all 9" 3rd members are not created equal.

You CANNOT SAVE MONEY ON A 3rd MEMBER.

Currie 9+ aluminum 3rds are junk. They will not take the abuse in the rear of a rig. No way.

If you want 9" tech, read up on the drag racer forums. When is the last time you saw a D60 in the back of a 1500HP drag racer?

This has been beat to death.

Go to www.sunrayengineering.com and read "Why a 9"
 
You already know my decision, I am just curious to see what people say.

Nolen how much does a built 9 weigh compared to like a 14 bolt or 60?
 
just put a 14 bolt back there and fill it with helium


really a 14 bolt isn't THAT heavy once you shave the fat off of err
 
I'm with Rob on that. Don't have anything but theory here but I'm betting once a 14 bolt has a little trim work done on it and a 9" is strengthened, you aren't looking at much difference as far as weight. I don't think I'd ever harm a 9" but I'll probably go 14 bolt because I'm a cheapass like "P" and I have the equipment to make it right.
 
Also, when factoring 14B and 9"... Think about ease of setting up gears as well.. You could easily setup gears on the trail with no fancy needle gauges in an hour or less so in a 14bolt if you were to shell out a ringNpinion.. The setup on a 14B is sweet. removable pinion carrier is da **** !!!
 
200-250# difference.

My last 9" weighed in a 180# wet. That is a BIG difference if you are going fast.

You cannot argue with the strength of a 14B. Can't do it. They kick ass.

That said, throw some $$ at a 9" and it is all but indestructable.

Also, who the hell sets up gears on the trail? For that argument, a replaceable 3rd member is the easiest way to fix something broken in the diff IMO.

Moser Nodular Iron 3rd members are the very best for the $$.
 
wngrog said:
200-250# difference.

My last 9" weighed in a 180# wet. That is a BIG difference if you are going fast.

You cannot argue with the strength of a 14B. Can't do it. They kick ass.

That said, throw some $$ at a 9" and it is all but indestructable.

Also, who the hell sets up gears on the trail? For that argument, a replaceable 3rd member is the easiest way to fix something broken in the diff IMO.

Moser Nodular Iron 3rd members are the very best for the $$.
Click to expand...


It's all a $$ factor.

I'll be $520 deep into a 14 bolt with the right ratio 4.56/detroit... with a spare ring / pinion, welded carrier and shafts... with a shaved bottom, disc brakes and 1/4" diff cover.

How's the 9"-er factor ?? more than that just for the housing.

Guess it's how much $$ you wanna spend to save a hundred lbs and have bling factor...

For me if I wanted to save a hundred lbs It would be cheaper just to stop eating laughing1
 
Ive still never witnessed first hand a 14B breakage. thumb.gif

Ive NEVER heard of anyone losing a 14B R&P either... thats just plain sillyness to setup gears on the trail.. F that Id wheel my big white cooler the rest of the day. laughing1
 
14B's are cheap as **** but they are pigs even if you shave the piss out of them. The weight difference is in the 200-300 range which is a lot in the very back of a rig. It all comes down to what you want to spend your money one. Just don't go HP rear, I don't like that about my new rig. It is the only component I don't really like
 

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