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Aeration

Bunk said:
Crash, What do you think of having the fuel pump on all the time vs. run by the ecm? I have sorta similar probs but they were improved by adding a adj fpr.

Also, Mauler. On my sn95(94-95 5.0) there is a larger window on the distributor pickup(hall effect) that orients to #1 cyl. I had some issues with it as the fuel pump triggers at #1(at least it seems with my beater)
Click to expand...

Same hall effect set-up in my distributor....we "rebuilt" the distributor twice while in Moab trying to get it to run

I went into jim Greens today to P/U a couple feet of -8 fuel line and ran the scenario by the guys and got anything from too small of fuel line (-8?) too small of pump (the vane pump I have in it is speced for an injeced 460 as well as pretty much ALL Ford injected V-8's) ,to much current draw from the pump causing it to bog(it's not popping the 25amp inline fuse or heating up the wires),plus some others and a bunch of shoulder shrugs.

I may just barrow Brads freshly rebuilt Mallory FI 110 pump(basically a full race pump) and force feed that ****er:mad: I'll wire it straight to the battery with 4g wire and ground the **** out of it a let it PUMP:rolleyes: J.G.'s also felt that the oem style fuel press reg would be fine.....not sure what to make of that info
 
Bunk,
With the fuel system you are running you need to have it on a seperate circuit.

The factory system with ecm primes the intake pump for a few seconds at most. With your pump it's not enough time.
 
jeepmauler said:
Same hall effect set-up in my distributor....we "rebuilt" the distributor twice while in Moab trying to get it to run

I went into jim Greens today to P/U a couple feet of -8 fuel line and ran the scenario by the guys and got anything from too small of fuel line (-8?) too small of pump (the vane pump I have in it is speced for an injeced 460 as well as pretty much ALL Ford injected V-8's) ,to much current draw from the pump causing it to bog(it's not popping the 25amp inline fuse or heating up the wires),plus some others and a bunch of shoulder shrugs.

I may just barrow Brads freshly rebuilt Mallory FI 110 pump(basically a full race pump) and force feed that ****er:mad: I'll wire it straight to the battery with 4g wire and ground the **** out of it a let it PUMP:rolleyes: J.G.'s also felt that the oem style fuel press reg would be fine.....not sure what to make of that info
Click to expand...

When's the new adjustable regulator go in?
 
Jobless said:
Bunk,
With the fuel system you are running you need to have it on a seperate circuit.

The factory system with ecm primes the intake pump for a few seconds at most. With your pump it's not enough time.
Click to expand...

The way it was wired i have to turn a key on(1st prime) hit the ign on switch(2nd prime) and then attempt to start it 2 or 3 times to get it to fire. I just redid the fuel system and it starts up without the 2 or 3 attempts(pump a foot lower than the cell).

Mauler, I carry a mallory fi110 pump with me if yers or brads ever fails.
 
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Bunk said:
Mauler, I carry a mallory fi110 pump with me if yers or brads ever fails.
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Thanks Joe!!....We have a "pile" of spare pumps...IIRC...2 Mal.60FI and the 110...and maybe another.What pump are you runnin Joe? you probably told me Sat. but I spaced it
 
Bunk said:
The way it was wired i have to turn a key on(1st prime) hit the ign on switch(2nd prime) and then attempt to start it 2 or 3 times to get it to fire. I just redid the fuel system and it starts up without the 2 or 3 attempts(pump a foot lower than the cell).

Mauler, I carry a mallory fi110 pump with me if yers or brads ever fails.
Click to expand...


If you wire the pump to a switch, turn it on, give it a few seconds it will start right up. Mine always has.
 
I coppied my response from a 5.0 mustang forum:

So this evening I pulled the fuel cell,the fuel lines,pump and filter.Everything checked out wideopen and clear of obstruction.......except for the fuel filter :rolleyes: I made the mistake of puting a Summit racing 10 micron billet filter BEFORE the pump When I would pull the element out of the housing..It "looked" clean so I thought it was OK.....three pumps later I FINALLY figured out it's not:mad:

I ended up trying to suck air through the element and COULD NOT....I could see light through it and it LOOKED clean.....but it would not flow any fuel.I really needed a 100micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron between the pump and the injectors....live and learn.

If you have a similar set up then check/replace your elements.....WAY cheaper than burning up pumps.


So I got the car all together last night with a 100 micron Aeromotive filter before the pump and HOLY CRAP.....thing runs good now:redneck:

I have a steady 38# of fuel pressure at idle and the fuel pressure increases with RPM...(OEM FPR) cranked the timing back up to 14* and did a fresh reboot of the 'puter and seems to run "pretty good":redneck: I did some hot laps around the neighborhood and some WOT action and all seemed good.I'm pretty conservative on launching the car from a stop on the asphault due to not wanting to peel the teeth off the ring gear(6.17) so I pretty much roll hard into the gas from a roll up to WOT.(yes....my neighbors love me:haha: )

Moral of the story is CHECK YOURE FUEL FILTERS!!!!!:beer:
 
sorry but...:haha: :haha: :haha:





been there done that, and when explaining it to my dad after wrecking my brain and wallet. he thinks for about one second and says is there an inlet filter to the pump?

my face just fell.

Glad ya figured it out.
 
Thats the F'ed up part!!:rolleyes:

WE DID CHECK THE FILTER A NUMBER OF TIMES!!:mad: :mad:

Hell.... last weekend ,on the trail, we(EBP,Binder,Scott,Brad,KRAWLER,myself) pulled the filter apart and inspected it."LOOKED" clean:rolleyes: The problem is ,it was a 10 micron filter and was plugged on a "microscopic" level so you couldn't see anything but a wet filter...looked fine.

You really need a 100 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron after the pump and before the injectors.It is way easier to "push" 40+ psi through the 10mic filter element than "SUCK" through it....live and learn:beer:
 
Good deal! Glad to hear you found the issue :awesomework:


Now lets go wheeling :cool:
 
Very:cool: . I hope this takes care of the issues once and for all. God knows everything else checks out fine so it shoud.:cheer:
 
Its always something simple.........

Don't feel bad jeff---I see guys who do this for a living overlook the basics---Even I have been burned a time or 2 by these type of things...
 
crash said:
Its always something simple.........

Don't feel bad jeff---I see guys who do this for a living overlook the basics---Even I have been burned a time or 2 by these type of things...
Click to expand...

X2!!! Glad to hear it's fixed!!! Oh, and Mike, I've never been burned by anything like that before!!!:D :; :haha:
 
Nice, Im changing my filter tomorrow...Now i know where that patch of foam(in the cell) went to.
 
Car runs REALLY good(strong) now. "Seems" a little rough at low rpms(>1000) but nothing thats an issue.Still need to fine tune timing and TPS and that should clean up the low rpm choppiness. Car will WOT at any RPM with just about any load and piss-rap top the moon:FIREdevil:

Example.....bogged down in 2HI and go WOT doesn't miss a beat..a little slow to wind up then hits like a 2 stroke powerband!

Above 1500 and go WOT there is NO lag or windup....just straight to 6k and you better be hanging on.
 

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