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Batmobile 14 bolt front build

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This particular drive shaft took plenty of abuse in Moon Rover before being bolted in Warfare with a Steve Scmidt 440 SBC. This is the first time to break.
 
Why not Build an 80? Because Bobby Tanner beats on his 14bolts like this with no issues:
BOBBY TANNER BLUE HOLLER BOUNTY HILL BEATDOWN!

An 80 doesnt have that extra pinion bearing. I would build a 14 over an 80 any day of the week.
AJ Rockwell testing an 80- 1000 HORSEPOWER ULTRA BOUNCER BREAKS DANA 80

There is a reason the big name guys are running 14bolts and not 80s. Plowboy is running 14 bolts.

Is Bobby Tanner and Richie running the bronze bushings instead of the nose bearing on their 14 bolts? I know Jake Burkey is not and just grenaded a R&P.
 
BustedKnucklefilms said:
Why not Build an 80? Because Bobby Tanner beats on his 14bolts like this with no issues:
BOBBY TANNER BLUE HOLLER BOUNTY HILL BEATDOWN!

An 80 doesnt have that extra pinion bearing. I would build a 14 over an 80 any day of the week.
AJ Rockwell testing an 80- 1000 HORSEPOWER ULTRA BOUNCER BREAKS DANA 80

There is a reason the big name guys are running 14bolts and not 80s. Plowboy is running 14 bolts.

Is Bobby Tanner and Richie running the bronze bushings instead of the nose bearing on their 14 bolts? I know Jake Burkey is not and just grenaded a R&P.

Did Burkey build a 14b front this year? he has been running a HP60 for years.
 
TBItoy said:
Did Burkey build a 14b front this year? he has been running a HP60 for years.

No, he beats his HP60 as hard as anyone. They really hold up to more abuse than people think. I have an HP60 as well, been real happy with it.


BustedKnucklefilms said:
Is Bobby Tanner and Richie running the bronze bushings instead of the nose bearing on their 14 bolts? I know Jake Burkey is not and just grenaded a R&P.

I think that was more of a fluke than anything, could have been an oiling problem or just age on the bearing. I didn't even know the bronze bushing was a thing until he posted about it.
 
I had heard thru the grape vine that Bobby did run a bushing in his and that it still does crack gears a lot. That is not direct in the know info tho so take it how ever you want. That pilot bearing is the weakest link in a 14 bolt that ive seen
 
I just had one come apart in my rear axle so this bronze bushing thing sounds interesting.
 
tbacon38 said:
I just had one come apart in my rear axle so this bronze bushing thing sounds interesting.

Yeah and there is no tech on it that I have found. :dunno:
 
I haven't had a lot of problems out of mine but I usually like to upgrade once something gives out. Hell I just broke my first factory axle in the rear and been running them for close to 4 years now. I build all of my drive shafts out of thick wall tubing and have never had a problem with the tube itself, we have busted a couple yokes in the past but it has been a while now.
 
SilverStarCustoms said:
This particular drive shaft took plenty of abuse in Moon Rover before being bolted in Warfare with a Steve Scmidt 440 SBC. This is the first time to break.

I don't know where the one in that video broke but it seems like I have seen several like that break at the weld where the dia. is smaller than a normal drivesaft. Linear weld inches seems like it is somewhat small to be putting it through what some people put them through IMHO. Its why super-high power diesel guys can get away with aluminum driveshafts that are 5" dia. I know space is sometimes a constraint though.
 
Re: Re: Batmobile 14 bolt front build

TBItoy said:
Seems like all you'd need is 3 dimensions, ID OD and Length. Pretty simple I'd say.

I will make some no problem. Just wondering why the bearings give up.
 
Re: Re: Batmobile 14 bolt front build

bjeep said:
I will make some no problem. Just wondering why the bearings give up.

Smallest bearing in the dif that is closest to the point of deflection? Just a guess.
 
Crappy designed bearing, it comes apart and then drops the needles so that they end up in between the gears. I've seen this happen to where it locked up the tires where it got wedged in between the pinion and ring gear.
 
Elliott said:
Crappy designed bearing, it comes apart and then drops the needles so that they end up in between the gears. I've seen this happen to where it locked up the tires where it got wedged in between the pinion and ring gear.

The newer housings do not use a needle bearing. So is this just for the older housings?
 
bjeep said:
The newer housings do not use a needle bearing. So is this just for the older housings?

Good Point. What are the difference between the new housings and older 14bolt housings?

Also Jake Does Run a HP 60 front but I though he was talking about the rear end that broke?
 
BustedKnucklefilms said:
Good Point. What are the difference between the new housings and older 14bolt housings?

Also Jake Does Run a HP 60 front but I though he was talking about the rear end that broke?

Ah, I just had "14 bolt front" on the brain.

patooyee said:
I don't know where the one in that video broke but it seems like I have seen several like that break at the weld where the dia. is smaller than a normal drivesaft. Linear weld inches seems like it is somewhat small to be putting it through what some people put them through IMHO. Its why super-high power diesel guys can get away with aluminum driveshafts that are 5" dia. I know space is sometimes a constraint though.

That's why I suggested beefing/sleeving/lengthing "something" to the female section.

I'd also look at the interface of the spline shaft on the non-slip side, especially since it breaks the #1 rule of splined shaft design (no minor diameter straight section for stress relief)

But what do I know, apparently those shafts are made of magic pixie dicks and only those gifted with the power of Zeus can break them after years of beat downs, so no reason to question the almighty driveshaft. :dunno:
 
Batmobile Will said:
Talking about that if someone has a newer 14 bolt housing before I start I'll buy it off of you , I like the AAM 14 bolts better

Check car-part.com

housings are going for $150 and complete axles are around $250-400ish complete for late model axles (88+) at the scrap yards near me.
 
Is this the "better" style bearing?


It's in a newer style, ribbed housing. Not sure on the year though.
 
Beerj said:
Is this the "better" style bearing?


It's in a newer style, ribbed housing. Not sure on the year though.

:dunno: That is what the ones I have seen look like in the newer housings.
 
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