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coilovers

rpf500 said:
Makes sense. Just trying to get it all figured out. I see PAC makes a 125" as well in 16" length. The part that bothers me the most is the "guessing" game. I have so little patience and hate my rig being down. I need to get over it I guess and just calm down.

No answer from EOR still. Like usual, I wanted these tomorrow so I could install over the weekend. Guess I will try them again in the A.M and go from there.

I used to be like that, now - not so much. You'll frustrate yourself to death before long. I got to the point of nearly selling my junk twice being like that...I finally mellowed out and now don't give a **** about waiting. Much less stressful. I would guess the 150 lower would improve greatly, but the 125 may also be spot on. I'm gonna go with the 150 since you only need to drop a couple inches. I know when I had 100/200 I cranked down way more preload than normal for running a 2" longer lower spring setup, and it was still like 2" too low in the front and lacked stability. Went up to 150/200 and it changed the ballgame. Very little preload and sit perfect and stable.
 
It was real easy to hit bumps in the trail hard enough to slam down on both bump stops really hard too with 100/200....I barely hit them now. I am willing to bet 150 lower will be good on your rig. You don't want it too soft., especially since you are worried about the rear tires getting into the fenders on uptravel.
 
TacomaJD said:
It was real easy to hit bumps in the trail hard enough to slam down on both bump stops really hard too with 100/200....I barely hit them now. I am willing to bet 150 lower will be good on your rig. You don't want it too soft., especially since you are worried about the rear tires getting into the fenders on uptravel.

True. But like you mentioned before, if I get the ride height correct, the fender issue may resolve itself. Even if it doesn't I can set bump stops to help with that. I just can't set them until after I get the height correct. Well, I can, but I'm taking your advice and trying to do it right the first time.
 
I use to get all tore up and worried when Marsha didnt anwser her phone, but i found a old bottle of Quaaludes from the 1980's, pop a couple and i dont give a **** if the sun dont rise! :flipoff1:
 
mikeyg79 said:
and once you have the springs close to what you want, you get to mess with the valves

Speaking of that and related topics....what is the range (minimum and maximum) on an emulsion coilover regarding nitrogen?

I specifically have 2.0 Fox Coil Over Emulsion Shocks on the rear. I e-mailed FOX for this info just a little bit ago. Wondering what you guys are running.

Bilstein 9100 Remote Res CO's on the front
 
Here is some info FOX sent me just now........

Assuming 5/8" or 7/8" shaft diameter (1.25" Air Shock is totally different).

Factory pressure and recommendation is 200 psi when fully extended but when tuning this can vary in either direction quite a bit depending upon specific variables.

What kind of car? Is it paired with a bypass? What valving is in this shock? Is there a specific reason you are inquiring (ie: affecting ride height or damping deficiency)?

When paired with a bypass on the front of a light rear engine buggy with soft neutral valving in the shock I run as low as 50psi if higher pressure is affecting my ride height and or compliance over small bumps. Opposite end of the spectrum: when only shock per wheel, heavily valved, on a heavy trail/rock/expedition style rig will gas this shock upwards of 300 psi. Under most normal circumstances 150 is usually appropriate for softer valving and 200 appropriate to medium-heavy valving.

Remember, we are always checking/adding/subtracting gas pressure with suspension fully extended (starting pressure is what we adjust).

Feel free to call or respond with any further questions or concerns.

Joe Moore
Service / Race Department - Offroad Division
Truck | SUV | Offroad Race
[email protected]
 
Valving had WAY more effect on my heavy rig than spring rate........once the ride height was established with springs.

Playing with valving is what makes an expensive shock worth the money!
 
pachary said:
Valving had WAY more effect on my heavy rig than spring rate........once the ride height was established with springs.

Playing with valving is what makes an expensive shock worth the money!

Very true. Once he gets spring rates and ride height like he wants, more power to him to play with the valving. But that's not a factor of initial tuning for where he is at right now.
 
pachary said:
valving is what makes an expensive shock worth the money!

This is the key. Why buy a tunable shock and not tune it? To me tuning is enjoyable, knowing it can get better with just a little time and very little $$, valve shims are not expensive.

 
TacomaJD said:
It was real easy to hit bumps in the trail hard enough to slam down on both bump stops really hard too with 100/200....I barely hit them now. I am willing to bet 150 lower will be good on your rig. You don't want it too soft., especially since you are worried about the rear tires getting into the fenders on uptravel.

get your desired ride-height with your springs, the proper way to dial your ride in is with valving

also if i were you i wouldn't do anything else until you get your shock mounts right. set you axle at full bump, then mount your bumpstops to stop it there, then mount your shocks collapsed (assuming the rubber stop is still on the shockshaft) then droop it out, and get limitstraps 1" or so shorter than that measurment.
 
So I thought I would bump this thread instead of starting a new one. Why are the coil overs on showgirl mounted upside down?
 
Re: Re: Re: coilovers

Eddyj said:
So I thought I would bump this thread instead of starting a new one. Why are the coil overs on showgirl mounted upside down?
I'd guess clearance at the tabs on the chassis or axle? Just a guess.

Maybe just to make people ask why...
 
Eddyj said:
I just assumed with all the wizardry that goes into tuning a shock, That would be a no no.

Are they emulsion or remote resi's? I don't recall. Think the coilover bible stated that it doesn't hurt to run them inverted, there just isn't a reason to justify doing so, so nobody does. Kinda like some people running the heavy spring over the light spring in a dual rate setup. It can be done, but why do it?
 

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