ridered3
Not Rigless
After adding some insulation and panels to our old 38' trailer, this is 1000% accurate! The number of screws I broke or stripped out during that process was nuts.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Enclosed trailer/Toy Hauler Conversion
- Thread starter jeff150
- Start date
After adding some insulation and panels to our old 38' trailer, this is 1000% accurate! The number of screws I broke or stripped out during that process was nuts.
jeff150
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I need to run it across the scale. Mfg. website had it at 3200 lbs empty but I know things add up pretty quick. Thanks
jeeptj99
Well-Known Member
My trailer should be here in a few weeks, definitely going to be stealing some of your ideas. What did you coat the floor with in the garage area? My junk leaks like a mofo but I want to keep the floor semi nice.
jeff150
Well-Known Member
Rustoleum Deck Coat https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/deck/6x-deck-coat I just swept it out real good and rolled it on while the wood was still new. (before anything leaked on it). It seems to be holding up well. I was concerned it would peel, especially where the rig's tires sit but so far no problems. I have mopped it once but usually just blow it out with leaf blower when I get home. I have had some transmission fluid leak on it and I just cleaned it up with paper towels and simple green.
If I had a habitual leak on the rig, I would probably keep a drip pan under it while in the hauler. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5XQMO/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20
jeeptj99
Well-Known Member
Yeah i was going to invest in drip pans. My rear diff will not stop leaking. Only thing i havent done is pull the third out and reseal it. I just keep adding fluid back to it
The Luke
Well-Known Member
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tube of rtv is cheaper than all that oil you're throwing out.... fo sho
jeeptj99
Well-Known Member
One of the studs is ****ed and I just havent messed with it.
The one thing I'll add based on experience is the floor coating. Nothing worse than tire pickup pulling the coat up or a small fuel leak/spill ruining it all.
Go to your nearest Sherwin Williams store & get a gallon of Armorseal Rexthane, then have it tinted. It's a 1k moisture cure aliphatic urethane that's used to topcoat professional epoxy floor coatings. Very scratch resistant, sticks to wood like crazy, won't bubble up if fuel is spilled on it and won't get pulled by tire pickup. Yes it costs more, but the results immediately and years down the road are worth every penny.
Go to your nearest Sherwin Williams store & get a gallon of Armorseal Rexthane, then have it tinted. It's a 1k moisture cure aliphatic urethane that's used to topcoat professional epoxy floor coatings. Very scratch resistant, sticks to wood like crazy, won't bubble up if fuel is spilled on it and won't get pulled by tire pickup. Yes it costs more, but the results immediately and years down the road are worth every penny.
ridered3
Not Rigless
Previous owner of our 28' enclosed put down waterproof flooring that snaps together like tongue and groove would and I've been very pleased with it's oil/water/gas resistance so far. Only problem is, that I have no idea what brand it is so would have to do a fair amount of searching if I ever needed to replace it.
jeeptj99
Well-Known Member
How does it do with traction? I've heard of people throwing sand into their stuff??
I put an appropriate traction additive in mine that met Rexthane approved specs and just used a little to prevent foot slips. The more you add the harder to clean and you have to watch out using sand, unforeseen issues "can" pop up later down the road.
Edit: The aggregate I used was sold by SW & I'm pretty sure is mentioned in the Rexthane technical data sheet, but it's been too long to remember exactly.
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Will earmark Rexthane, thanks for the info. Looks like it's the ticket. Was the aggregate you used @Waffle the 5020 Aggregate in the spec sheet, page 13?
Covers 350-530sq/ft per gallon, which is pretty good. That's two coats on a 8.5x20 deck.
www.sherwin-williams.com
Covers 350-530sq/ft per gallon, which is pretty good. That's two coats on a 8.5x20 deck.
ArmorSeal® Rexthane™ I Moisture Cure Urethane - Sherwin-Williams
High-solids, single component, aliphatic, moisture-cure urethane, VOC-complying, moisture resistant industrial floor coating.
www.sherwin-williams.com
5020 sounds familiar, but it's been a long time. If it's in the spec sheet then your GTG. Black looks killer and perfectly hides all black marks & stains, but shows dirt/dust very well. Mine had a SG finish when dried (probably due to rolling).Will earmark Rexthane, thanks for the info. Looks like it's the ticket. Was the aggregate you used @Waffle the 5020 Aggregate in the spec sheet, page 13?
Covers 350-530sq/ft per gallon, which is pretty good. That's two coats on a 8.5x20 deck.
ArmorSeal® Rexthane™ I Moisture Cure Urethane - Sherwin-Williams
High-solids, single component, aliphatic, moisture-cure urethane, VOC-complying, moisture resistant industrial floor coating.
A few tips if you go this route.
1. Read this, print out the spec sheet & make a plan so you're not caught off guard in the middle of the project.
2. Pay close attention to temps and follow the spec sheet guidelines. It stinks like hell, but it goes away after a few days with no lingering odors.
3. Use only a "Mohair" roller that's suitable for epoxies/urethanes/solvents. (MOHAIR ROLLER ONLY) lol. Seriously.
4. Tape everything that you dont want painted and try to pull the tape as you go, working from one end of the trailer to the other.
5. You won't get 2 rolled coats on an 8x20 from 1 gallon, but thats ok cause 1 thick coat will be plenty. Use a drill mixer to evenly suspend the aggregate (1 pouch should be fine, no more than 2), work quickly, periodically mix again to keep aggregate evenly suspended.
6. Work quickly, but in control. You'll know if you're too slow cause you'll start getting lots of stringers as you roll. Some are ok and a simple re-wet will be fine, but keep an eye on it.
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PS: You'll need to open a commercial/business account to buy their industrial products. Don't worry cause it doesn't cost you anything or require anything special.
And don't freak out when you notice the sales person hasn't got a clue about it. I mean none! Pros buy in bulk from distributors & generally don't walk into the stores so the store clerks see 99% homeowners buying wall paint.
And don't freak out when you notice the sales person hasn't got a clue about it. I mean none! Pros buy in bulk from distributors & generally don't walk into the stores so the store clerks see 99% homeowners buying wall paint.
ridered3
Not Rigless
Been making any changes or out enjoying the enclosed trailer lately?
jeff150
Well-Known Member
Finally put the windows in. Other than that, been using it and enjoying the ac.
ridered3
Not Rigless
That's great on windows and enjoying it.
jeff150
Well-Known Member
That was the hardest part mainly because plumbing is my Achilles heel and I was stressed I would screw it up.
Since my holding tanks were from a wrecked camper and already had the holes and drains, I just fit them between the cross members where they would work and then made sure my shower and shitter lined up. My freshwater tank is under the bathroom sink. I made platforms out of 2x6 under the toilet and shower to allow me room for the drains. I used Hepvo traps https://hepvo.com/ they lay horizontal and don't take up much room. I used pex for all water lines. It is flexible and easy to work with plus it is less likely to bust from freezing.
I didn't take any pictures of the plumbing install but basically researched it and used plumbing diagrams I found online.
