Pics of your shops/garages/specs

94xjsport94 · May 29, 2018

Like this one Nick? https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-ENERGY-STAR-24-000-BTU-230-Volt-Electronic-Room-Window-Air-Conditioner-AEL24DV/206685322

I wouldnt mind throwing one of those in my shop at all. I guess I just dont want to waste the money putting one in and then it becoming a pain in the ass to run because I'm only in the shop for a couple hours at a time or it would take a long time to cool off because I'd only be turning it on when it was already warm in the shop.

TBItoy · May 29, 2018

Yep that's it.

civicmindedex79 · May 29, 2018

jayphizzle said:
I'm only coming in on the tail end of this, but before you guys go throwing out money on units, know this. 12.000 btuh is one ton of refrigeration, so a 4 ton unit is rated at 48,000 btuh. You can get a "Mini Split" type unit in a 4 ton, but that SOB will be expensive up front. They are super efficient and compared to a conventional system, will definitely pay for themselves over the lifespan of the equipment. When I size a system for a house/shop with common insulation (non spray foam) , I figure 600 sq ft/ton with 8 ft ceilings. (Or 4800 Ft3 per ton) That usually works out great without oversizing. You can however go to 800 sq ft /ton and be fine most of the time. If you decide to go the mini split route, you can add more systems to achieve your comfort if needed. Also go with a good brand! I can't stress this part enough!!!! I've had people use the cheapo ones off the internet (Pioneer for example) and they do not last. It's just like any other thing in life. you get what you pay for. Go with a Mitsubishi, Daikin or Fujitsu. I've personally had the best luck with Mitsubishi. If anyone wants any input on their particular building from me, feel free to PM me. Hope this helps

So I have been tossing around the spray foam idea. Job has been quoted at $10k so its a major expense in my book. I seen you said NOT spray foam above. How much does spray foam change the calculation? Also this will be living quarters inside a spray foam building with rolled insulation in between the walls and blown insulation on the top in living quarters. I am 99% we are going with this type unit on our new house. The only draw back I have is the large open concept for living room, dining room, and kitchen getting the correct size and number of units placed correctly in the space.

TacomaJD · May 29, 2018

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

94xjsport94 said:
Like this one Nick? https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-ENERGY-STAR-24-000-BTU-230-Volt-Electronic-Room-Window-Air-Conditioner-AEL24DV/206685322

I wouldnt mind throwing one of those in my shop at all. I guess I just dont want to waste the money putting one in and then it becoming a pain in the ass to run because I'm only in the shop for a couple hours at a time or it would take a long time to cool off because I'd only be turning it on when it was already warm in the shop.

Keep in mind, that is a/c only, no heat. Mini split has both and is good at both.

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P · May 29, 2018

My wife bought me a ceiling fan for my Bday, I hung it this weekend in my 30x50 14' walls. Im going to get another one for the back side. Gonna rock, nothing crazy expensive works really well. Damn, deleted the fan pic lol heres headed to the lake yesterday instead LoL

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jayphizzle · May 29, 2018

civicmindedex79 said:
So I have been tossing around the spray foam idea. Job has been quoted at $10k so its a major expense in my book. I seen you said NOT spray foam above. How much does spray foam change the calculation? Also this will be living quarters inside a spray foam building with rolled insulation in between the walls and blown insulation on the top in living quarters. I am 99% we are going with this type unit on our new house. The only draw back I have is the large open concept for living room, dining room, and kitchen getting the correct size and number of units placed correctly in the space.

An easy rule of thumb for spray foam is 900 sq ft /ton. However, different installers use different R-value insulation and this greatly affects the heat transfer characteristics. You would be better suited doing a load calculation with your builder and HVAC contractor. The spray foam is amazing, and expensive! But I truly think it's worth it.

The-Boss · May 29, 2018

I have a heat/cool window unit in my 25x35 fiberglass insulated shop. Similar to this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-18-500-BTU-230-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-FFRH18L2RR/305194839
It works well. In the winter I don't keep it too warm for power usage so I have a gas torpedo heater that I can bring the air temp up fast then let the unit take over. It cools very well. I usually keep it on 78 all the time during the summer. Once everything is at temp it doesn't run much unless I'm opening the doors. And if they are not open too long, the walls, concrete and everything else that was already cooled will bring the temp right back down.

jayphizzle · May 29, 2018

The-Boss said:
I have a heat/cool window unit in my 25x35 fiberglass insulated shop. Similar to this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-18-500-BTU-230-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-FFRH18L2RR/305194839
It works well. In the winter I don't keep it too warm for power usage so I have a gas torpedo heater that I can bring the air temp up fast then let the unit take over. It cools very well. I usually keep it on 78 all the time during the summer. Once everything is at temp it doesn't run much unless I'm opening the doors. And if they are not open too long, the walls, concrete and everything else that was already cooled will bring the temp right back down.

As it should. 25*35 is 875 sq ft. 18,500 btuh window unit is a little over 1.5 tons. @ 600 sq ft/ton, 1.5 tons = 900 sq ft. The only difference being the slab and ceiling heights. That slab hadn't even crossed my mind! Excellent point sir, it's no different than a cooler working better when full of product v when empty.

Bumpers · May 29, 2018

Re:

TacomaJD said:
Metal construction = better in pretty much every way.

Pole barn = pretty good but cheaper.

Honestly, what some of these folks have mentioned having in a pole barn style shop, is not far from what I can get a steel building for from local guy. Some of it is regional price differences and other is how much you plan to finish it out on the inside. If you go pole barn style, contact summertown metals for a quote. They manufacture their own steel and such in house, and have erection crews that work for them. They can quote you down to the penny how much it will cost minus concrete, that's your responsibility.

I'm not 100% which way I am going yet, depends on budget when I go to getting final quotes. I really want a 40x40, but may settle for 30x40 steel building if I have to, to ensure I can build a steel building instead of pole barn.

There's a reason commercial buildings are steel construction and not pole barn style. All depends on what size you want and what you are willing to pay. I dont want to have to deal with rotting, warped, sagging lumber in 20-30 yrs. Metal building is one and done.

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ended up going with a steel building. Got a 30x50 with a 15x35 lean to on the side. front of the building will be open so we can stick frame it brick and stone the front to match my house. Cant wait to get her going

quick-change · May 29, 2018

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

B.DRAKE said:
New shop getting close to being done and ready to start wiring and hanging lights, any thoughts on LED lighting? Worth the extra money? If y'all have bought any where is the best place to purchase some? Thanks in advance!

LED all the way for me...cost extra up front but better lighting and cheaper in the long run

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bbone · May 29, 2018

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

x2. Went with regular lights...lasted about 2/3 years. just switched to LED. worth it.

quick-change said:
LED all the way for me...cost extra up front but better lighting and cheaper in the long run

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Jduck · May 29, 2018

For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights. They're not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright.

Bumpers · Jun 11, 2018

Jduck said:
For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights. They're not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright.

those look nice. Which ones did you go with? They have alot of different priced ones on there webbsite

civicmindedex79 · Jun 11, 2018

Jduck said:
For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights. They're not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright.

What size is the shop? I see there are 4 on the side in the pic. Did you do a total of 8?

ridered3 · Jun 11, 2018

civicmindedex79 said:
What size is the shop? I see there are 4 on the side in the pic. Did you do a total of 8?

Here is the size of the shop:

Jduck said:
I'm right in the middle of building a 30x40x12 red iron building. It will have freestand 12' awning on the 40' wall over the garage doors. It's still a few weeks from being erected but price wise it's very close to what a pole barn or carport structure was going to cost.

TacomaJD · Jun 11, 2018

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

civicmindedex79 said:
What size is the shop? I see there are 4 on the side in the pic. Did you do a total of 8?

I believe a total of 6, I think what you are looking at is the middle beam with 20' on each side of it. Picture taken from left wall looking toward right. 40 wide, 30 deep.

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Jduck · Jun 11, 2018

Yeah that's correct 30 deep x 40 wide. Total of 6 lights

TacomaJD · Jun 11, 2018

Those are awesome, definitely going to look into those. I am still torn on size. Wife wants a storage room as part of the shop we build, so if I built a 30x40, she would get 10x30 on the left side of it, leaving me with only a 30x30. If we built 40x40, she would get 10x40 and me 30x40. I would also love to do a lean-to on concrete, but at an already 40' wide shop (depth is to be decided 30 or 40), another 10-12' for a lean to is getting fairly wide for the location it will be built in the yard. Lean-to is optional and probably will not happen if I had to guess. I would also like to save money if I could get by with just a 30x40 (30x30) for me, as the difference in a steel building 30x40 vs. 40x40 is somewhere around $6k....but I keep telling myself that in the long run the extra $6k will be worth it to have plenty extra room instead of being full in a couple years and me being pissed that I didn't go bigger when trying to be a cheapass on the build. I am out on pole barn all together, I want to build a building that will outlive me, otherwise I could build a 40x40 pole barn for as much or less than a 30x40 steel beam and purlin building like Jducks.

I need to get out in the yard, measure off some corners and spray paint some markings to see just how much room I have. I am limited by trees and property lines. All kinds of room on the other side of the house, but I want the shop on the driveway/common side of the house. I have pondered (if I could get by with 50' wide) not doing a lean-to and building a 30x50, but you get more sq ft out of a square building (1500 sq ft for 30x50 vs. 1600 sq ft for 40x40) and the price difference would probably be minimal at that point. Anything over 25' span requires the heavy duty (more costly) beams, otherwise it could just be fabricated purely out of purlins like my old shop was (20x24).

I need to just say fawk it and do a 40x40, but I can't make a decision 100% until I decide there absolutely is no better, cheaper, more efficient way of doing it. I'm pretty sure a 40x40 would be perfect, although for how I want to build her storage room, a 30x50 has it's perks for a couple different reasons. But I'm not sure they outweigh benefits of just doing a 40x40.

grcthird · Jun 11, 2018

If you build it tall enough, you could make the storage room an upstairs mezzanine and still have all the floor space, park the mower and yard crap under it.

TacomaJD · Jun 11, 2018

grcthird said:
If you build it tall enough, you could make the storage room an upstairs mezzanine and still have all the floor space, park the mower and yard crap under it.

That's what I'm kinda wanting to avoid. Initially I thought it would be cool to do some upstairs storage to maximize space, but realistically I know I won't like stairs or fawking with toting anything upstairs, so I'd rather maintain everything ground level.

My main points for end goal with it is have one back corner/quadrant designated to a flat screen on the wall, pool table in corner with a bar built onto the back wall around it with a couple bar stools. I have some good furniture from my old house to put out there around the pool table/tv area. Find an old fridge, man-cave area is complete. Also, maybe in the other back corner along back wall, I'd like to put a couple pieces of gym equipment and begin working out at home. On the side with pool table/man cave, in the front will be mower/bike parking. The other bay will be left open to working on whatever it is that needs working on, and tools, workbench, etc, placed along the sidewall there and on mobile carts. If I go 30x40 and only get 30x30 for me, there'll probably be no gym equipment and less room for man-cave area, but I could still probably make it work. But I've been through this with my old shop...20x24 was plenty for the first couple years....then next thing you know I have it full of stuff, crawler, 2 bikes, then sold one bike and just filled its space back up with a new lawn mower. I don't want to ever get that cramped on space again, so deep down I know I better go 40x40.

I'd also love a 20' carport built onto the front of the shop to park my vehicles under (wife will get the attached garage parking for herself, as it's not really big enough to fit 2 cars with plenty room). But all that extra **** adds up to significantly higher price tag...I'm just weighing out all my options so when it's built I have no regrets. I have a habit of over-analyzing **** though. Lol