zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Cuttin it close, eh Jim? (like I'm to talk.....:redneck: :haha: ); I still need to replace the clutch, get a Radiator in, and check out my front axle for broken? birf....
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Pokeys rebuild
- Thread starter pokey
- Start date
Got lots done this weekend. Changed out the headers for ones that will keep the exhaust inside the frame and give andy some room when tieing the cage to the frame:cheer: Got the drivelines back in and the traction bar figured out and in. Got the fuel lines and every thing I could think of done before setting the tub back on :cheer:
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TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Your driveline angle sucks. At least, it sure looks that way. And it'll get worse if you unload the suspension (although there really isn't much of a load on it right now). But it really looks too steep by the pics.
yea and thats with the high pinion:booo: I am not too happy with it either. Hopeing that as we add weight it will get better but I can still roll the rear up and or drop the case some as needed. May still wind up with a cv in the driveline though. The one thats in there now is and will be a spare.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
damn sorry to say but that driveline angle is terrible. no way it is going to work imo do you have room to drop your t-case down some, and think about rotating your rear pinion up a bit? shims/longer shackles/rewelding perches ect...
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
yeah...what they said...you short sheelbase guys are ****ed with d-shaft angles.
Better just put it back to stock :fawkdancesmiley:
Better just put it back to stock :fawkdancesmiley:
What T-case is that. Really hard to tell by the pictures.
An idea. Go back to the original t-case. The D18 tcase is offset. Since the offset is also dropped down, then the driveline angle is actually pretty good. I've seen lots of guys run the driveshaft from the offset side to a centered diff with negligable vibrations at hwy speeds. The only thing you'll have to re-engineer is how you've got your anti-wrap bar located.
An idea. Go back to the original t-case. The D18 tcase is offset. Since the offset is also dropped down, then the driveline angle is actually pretty good. I've seen lots of guys run the driveshaft from the offset side to a centered diff with negligable vibrations at hwy speeds. The only thing you'll have to re-engineer is how you've got your anti-wrap bar located.
AMJ
Well-Known Member
With the angles the pictures show, unless it's a bling bling CV it doesn't look like it will help much. Just get the tub and everything back on there and adjust the pinion as needed.
Its always been a 20 tc what changed was the springover with the 2" add a leaf. Nothings welded on the axle housing yet. waiting to see how much it squats down a weight is added. (cage toolbox in the back 35" spare and rack...) still may wind up going to an 18 though if pointint the pinion up some dosent cure things.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Pokey
Set the body on it and check how much wheel clearance you have. I think you'll find that you can easily go to a much less lifted springs and still give plenty of tire room. A less lifted spring will flex better and also lower the frame down, thereby giving better driveline angles.
On my CJ, I ran rancho 2.5 lift springs, springunder, and 35 boggers. Yeah, I had to trim the sheet metal up quite a bit, but there was plenty of room for articulation.
With those springovers, you've already got a good 3+ of lift right there. I bet you could lower it just fine.
btw, what rear axle is that.... D44? D60?
Set the body on it and check how much wheel clearance you have. I think you'll find that you can easily go to a much less lifted springs and still give plenty of tire room. A less lifted spring will flex better and also lower the frame down, thereby giving better driveline angles.
On my CJ, I ran rancho 2.5 lift springs, springunder, and 35 boggers. Yeah, I had to trim the sheet metal up quite a bit, but there was plenty of room for articulation.
With those springovers, you've already got a good 3+ of lift right there. I bet you could lower it just fine.
btw, what rear axle is that.... D44? D60?
The rear is a 44 hp. ( I know) I may have to wind up taking out the add a leaves. The only reason their in there is to give some protection to the main leaf of the wrangler springpack where that first and last 4" is single leaf. I had the same setup on the front before with the rear on a 4" lift spring (under) and it really improved the road manners of the jeep so thats why I started that way. Someone told me that a waggoneer spring is the same length and they have a double wrap eye so I may look for them.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Hey Jim, you get any further???Gonna be ready? If not, I'll be without a passenger it looks like, and you're more than welcome to ride with...:awesomework: My clutch is done, power steering is in, just got the axles back in tonight(no broken parts!!!), just need to change the damn water pump that decided to start leaking
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wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
gettin closer jim:awesomework:
Hey Jim, you get any further???Gonna be ready? If not, I'll be without a passenger it looks like, and you're more than welcome to ride with...:awesomework: My clutch is done, power steering is in, just got the axles back in tonight(no broken parts!!!), just need to change the damn water pump that decided to start leaking
you wanna play trail leader host on sat. ? I may need a ride that day:cheer: thats our quartz Kaner day
so close I can smell the dirt :cheer: Now if this pesky azz work would lighten up I might just get it finished by early July. Going this weekend to get the cage done and a few other goodies :cheer: It will be good to have my own rig again:cheer:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
I'd like that!!! Our club was planning on a Quartz/Kaner day anyway!!! (we'd love to run with your group again, question is.....would you? I think that's what started this entire thread!!!!:eeek: :haha: )
that was rocky saddle and it was a mech malfunction :haha: I aint afraid of no damn trail:kissmyass:
