Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
I run my full hydraulic steering ram mounted off my cover. Granted its thick, but it can be done.
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Project Joining the Dark side!
- Thread starter War-Jeeper
- Start date
I run my full hydraulic steering ram mounted off my cover. Granted its thick, but it can be done.
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
:masturbanana[1]::masturbanana[1]::masturbanana[1]::masturbanana[1]::masturbanana[1]:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Kevin I have done both hydro assist and full hydro steering setups using this method with only one failure and that was a bolt issue on the cover.
With full hydro setups I prefer to use one of the aftermarket thick covers but have had good luck using a stock thick cover with some extra plating like I have done with sams rig.
With full hydro setups I prefer to use one of the aftermarket thick covers but have had good luck using a stock thick cover with some extra plating like I have done with sams rig.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so I popped the pitman arm off and got it centered.
So 2 things I have found. First the drag link is indeed too short and so is the pitman arm. Whats odd is the measurements from the old steering arm to the new setup is not but maybe a hair different--not enough to see what I am. The steering is perfectly centered but still does not max the travel of the knuckles so I figure it was never able to before either. So monday I will have to see what is available for pitman arms. The current one is 5 3/4 (hole to hole) long and we will need it to drop. Once we get the right pitman then I will know how long the drag link will need to be.
So 2 things I have found. First the drag link is indeed too short and so is the pitman arm. Whats odd is the measurements from the old steering arm to the new setup is not but maybe a hair different--not enough to see what I am. The steering is perfectly centered but still does not max the travel of the knuckles so I figure it was never able to before either. So monday I will have to see what is available for pitman arms. The current one is 5 3/4 (hole to hole) long and we will need it to drop. Once we get the right pitman then I will know how long the drag link will need to be.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Next thing to tackle, this mess. There is rubber to toyota extended braided hose. The rubber hose looks to be 2wd Chevy hoses which are the longest ones I have found to date with the banjo style end.
So I went and cut the hard line and flared it with a standard end. Then I made brackets to hold the rubber line. One nice thing about these brake hoses is you use a 5/8 fine thread nut to retain them. There looks to be enough droop in the hoses :awesomework:
So I went and cut the hard line and flared it with a standard end. Then I made brackets to hold the rubber line. One nice thing about these brake hoses is you use a 5/8 fine thread nut to retain them. There looks to be enough droop in the hoses :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Got the hydro lines ran. I am not sure if these will be long enough till I ramp it but its going to be pretty close.
Origionally it had a metal bushing (3/8 to 1/4 npt). I chose to swap it out with brass ones. The brass ones were shorter plus I tapped the 1/4" portion to get the 90 degree fitting to sink deeper into the bushing. This made the distance of the hose from the ram closer by about 3/4" to help protect the lines (by hugging the ram better)
Threw the tires on and dropped it back onto the ground :awesomework:
Origionally it had a metal bushing (3/8 to 1/4 npt). I chose to swap it out with brass ones. The brass ones were shorter plus I tapped the 1/4" portion to get the 90 degree fitting to sink deeper into the bushing. This made the distance of the hose from the ram closer by about 3/4" to help protect the lines (by hugging the ram better)
Threw the tires on and dropped it back onto the ground :awesomework:
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
i have a couple stock toy pitman arms if that is what you need,
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
One thing that caught my eye when I first looked at it but wasn't sure why :eeek: (thats the accelerator cable)
So I dug into why it was like this. Well under the dash I found this.
Thats supposed to be on the "outside" of the firewall. So I ripped the whole works apart. The one big difference between 2nd and 3rd generation trucks/runners for the accelerator cable is the spread between the holes that bolt the cable to the firewall. The 2nd generation have a wider spread between the holes, so its just a matter of notching the holes open on the cable and using a little bigger washers. I have done this a number of times with no issues.
So I dug into why it was like this. Well under the dash I found this.
Thats supposed to be on the "outside" of the firewall. So I ripped the whole works apart. The one big difference between 2nd and 3rd generation trucks/runners for the accelerator cable is the spread between the holes that bolt the cable to the firewall. The 2nd generation have a wider spread between the holes, so its just a matter of notching the holes open on the cable and using a little bigger washers. I have done this a number of times with no issues.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks james, I have a few stuffed away too :redneck: Monday I am going to look into that as an option before we order one.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
sure thing mike, rigs looking great, can't wait to see what else is instore for this one:corn:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Sam also dropped off another power steering pump but upon inspection I don't wanna use it. I found water in the pump and the shaft seal is leaking. But the pump doesn't whine like it did till I crank it and get more air into the system due to the ram (and I cycled it a BUNCH prior to starting on jack stands).
So I drove the rig out to do a bunch of cleaning and the shop was in dire need of maintenance. So once that was done, time to back the rig in and look into the rear.
So I drove the rig out to do a bunch of cleaning and the shop was in dire need of maintenance. So once that was done, time to back the rig in and look into the rear.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so got the rig up and wheels off. One thing sam brought to my attention when he dropped it off. Here is the fill neck. As you can see the hose is not attached to the neck and the fill cap is hose clamped to the hose :eeek: I will have to come back to this but I have a few ideas on how to correct this.
Here is the shackle setup or should e say dual shackle setup. If you look closely the first shackle is U-bolted in place to the frame. That setup also is not spaced correctly as one shackle sits at an angle (side to side). So that whole setup is getting tossed and shackle mounts welded to the frame.
Here is the shackle setup or should e say dual shackle setup. If you look closely the first shackle is U-bolted in place to the frame. That setup also is not spaced correctly as one shackle sits at an angle (side to side). So that whole setup is getting tossed and shackle mounts welded to the frame.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
One thing that sam had mentioned and I noticed it by the big puddle on the floor while I worked on the front. Well the fluid seemed to be coming from an odd spot on the rear diff (from the center in the area where the tube is pressed in/plug welded). Well I cleaned all the buildup and I found the fluid is coming from a plug weld. Judging on the location without pulling the carrier its gotta be very close to the edge of the tube.
I have seen a number of plug welds seep but never one that left a large puddle :redneck:
Now this problem may be aggravated by this problem.
Thats the vent sitting there with no other hole thats open. If you look at the tee for the brake line, I suspect the vent was in the hole where the bolt sits holding the tee. That might be making the plug weld leak worse.
Another thing that needs attention. As you can see the brake lines where the rubber meets the hard line--they are just sitting there, the drivers side is zip tied to the U-bolts. This is one thing thats going to get **** canned and redone so sam won't have a problem with it :awesomework:
I have seen a number of plug welds seep but never one that left a large puddle :redneck:
Now this problem may be aggravated by this problem.
Thats the vent sitting there with no other hole thats open. If you look at the tee for the brake line, I suspect the vent was in the hole where the bolt sits holding the tee. That might be making the plug weld leak worse.
Another thing that needs attention. As you can see the brake lines where the rubber meets the hard line--they are just sitting there, the drivers side is zip tied to the U-bolts. This is one thing thats going to get **** canned and redone so sam won't have a problem with it :awesomework:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Take a look at tacoma lines. They are long like chebies and have a banjo just the same. I have used taco lines several times when swapping a d44 front with chevy calipers.
hwcurtice
Well-Known Member
One thing that caught my eye when I first looked at it but wasn't sure why :eeek: (thats the accelerator cable)
Last edited:
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Havent had a chance to get on here in a few days and check this out, i think i just creamed my pants!:masturbanana[1]:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Didn't mean to make it sound like it'd fail, just something I haven't seen before:awesomework:---I'd not have thought of it...
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Those round things look familiar!!! :redneck: Sam, have you found any thing yet fer tires? Not rushin ya, just curious.
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Those round things look familiar!!! :redneck: Sam, have you found any thing yet fer tires? Not rushin ya, just curious.
No i havent even sold my old stuff yet
, been too busy riding my dirt bike:redneck:
