Rock bouncer front axle beef???

EsPowell · Nov 20, 2015

Who made them? A ballpark price would be cool for others that might be interested in the future

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TBItoy · Nov 20, 2015

Re: Re: Rock bouncer front axle beef???

EsPowell said:
Who made them? A ballpark price would be cool for others that might be interested in the future

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are EOR "Penn Axle" outers.

traveler · Nov 20, 2015

don't have a problem with 3.5 tube do have a problem with the sleeves its not safe but its your problem not mine

al1tonyota · Nov 20, 2015

traveler said:
don't have a problem with 3.5 tube do have a problem with the sleeves its not safe but its your problem not mine

Just curious what running a sleeve/bushing would hurt? The inner c will be welded inside and out I assume? As long as the sleeve and actual knuckle are welded to the tube how would it be different than machined to size?

Elliott · Nov 20, 2015

What's easier to break a weld or a solid piece of steel?

traveler · Nov 20, 2015

you got it figured out so carry on I wont hate no more

al1tonyota · Nov 20, 2015

Elliott said:
What's easier to break a weld or a solid piece of steel?

Umm technically they should be the same?

bad80cj · Nov 20, 2015

Plate steel

al1tonyota · Nov 20, 2015

For the record I'm not arguing I'm just trying to understand what it would hurt or what would make it weaker?

Beerj · Nov 21, 2015

My guess is Traveler is thinking that the chances of the inner C spinning on the sleeve is greater because theres a decent chance that the sleeve will have a better weld attaching it to the axle tube. Like the root pass is only going from the tube to the sleeve, and the subsequent filler passes are the only thing going to the actual inner C material. I would lean towards agreeing with him, BUT, if properly executed it could probably still hold fine.

Just my .02

The-Boss · Nov 21, 2015

I would just press out, drill the sleeve a few times before pressing back in, rosette weld, smooth high spots and done. Then weld the C to the tube as you would if there weren't any rosette welds.

traveler · Nov 21, 2015

Beerj said:
My guess is Traveler is thinking that the chances of the inner C spinning on the sleeve is greater because theres a decent chance that the sleeve will have a better weld attaching it to the axle tube. Like the root pass is only going from the tube to the sleeve, and the subsequent filler passes are the only thing going to the actual inner C material. I would lean towards agreeing with him, BUT, if properly executed it could probably still hold fine.

Just my .02

agreed

patooyee · Nov 21, 2015

Re: Re: Rock bouncer front axle beef???

Beerj said:
My guess is Traveler is thinking that the chances of the inner C spinning on the sleeve is greater because theres a decent chance that the sleeve will have a better weld attaching it to the axle tube. Like the root pass is only going from the tube to the sleeve, and the subsequent filler passes are the only thing going to the actual inner C material. I would lean towards agreeing with him, BUT, if properly executed it could probably still hold fine.

Just my .02

I probably would have made the sleeve a half inch or so longer than the c to avoid that.

TBItoy · Nov 21, 2015

Re: Re: Rock bouncer front axle beef???

patooyee said:
I probably would have made the sleeve a half inch or so longer than the c to avoid that.

Hater

I'd want the whole deal to press together, heavily. Any clearance at all between the tube and C is strength you are giving up.

Yes you could/can get enough weld around the tube/c interface to hold it all together, but I'd be mindful of overheating the axle tube material and making it brittle. Doesn't do any good for your C to stay on the tube, if the tube breaks 1/4" inside the weld.

I would hope he is retubing the 14b center with some new 3.5" x.5" wall tube, rather than using the stock 14b tube...

Elliott · Nov 21, 2015

TBI toy nailed it on that post. And the whole point of building this axle is to stop breaking on every ride or how ever often its doing it, so why intentionally put a weak spot in it to start with, If it were me and I know its not but if it was I would rather knock out the sleeve get some bigger tube turn down the end for the housing itself, freeze the tube and slide it in, let it sit for several hours just to warm back up and get all the moisture out then weld it solid. But hey what do I know I just like to build **** that doesn't break if I have a chance to do so.

onepieceatatime · Nov 21, 2015

How expensive are new tubes? I've never built an axle like this but I would think that could be one of the less expensive parts of such a high dollar axle? :dunno:

Neal3000 · Nov 21, 2015

If you retube your axle and are using custom knuckles then why do you need sleeves?

dynajeep · Nov 21, 2015

My guess EOR makes the knuckles for 4" tubes, then anything smaller can use the sleeve. That way they don't have to stock all different size stock. :dunno:

redneckengineered · Nov 21, 2015

hayitsray said:
And for price you would need to call Jimmy at EOR I got a lot of stuff from him and really have not looked at the invoice yet

Damn! Must be nice to have that kind of money. How much? IDK I just told him to charge it to my EBT card and throw my copy of the invoice in the trash. Baller son!

dynajeep · Nov 21, 2015

redneckengineered said:
Damn! Must be nice to have that kind of money. How much? IDK I just told him to charge it to my EBT card and throw my copy of the invoice in the trash. Baller son!

We have just became best friends