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Rock bouncer front axle beef???

EOR's setup is beef!! I was originally going to go with them but jimmy was in the process of redesigning them and me being the impatient person I am couldn't wait so I went with the WOD setup. A lot of thought and testing has went into both setups and if jimmy didn't think it would work he wouldn't sale them. You'll be happy with them will!!
 
They both have their pros and cons. The EOR setup isn't as thick as the WOD but they are smaller which really helps in the rocks. The downside to WOD setup is the size of them but the thickness of the material gives me a piece of mind when having to hit it a little harder!! i do know of a couple people that have had problems with bending the bolts when hitting or landing directly on the front end but from what I've been told Jimmy has been very generous when it comes to fixing the issue!! Then again that was with the first gen style so I'd say you be just fine!!
 
I have been very happy with mine from Jimmy. Takes less than 10 minutes to take the knuckle off and service the axle shafts. I also have the sleeves and have had no issues.
 
I designed the knuckles for EOR so I can answer any questions about them. These were obviously designed to fit the 47 spline RCV's and be as strong as possible. The physical side of something does not necessary dictate strength of it, with a knuckle and C the strong point is the center (same place the axle pivots) so we wanted to keep the "ears" on the C as close to that point as possible. Keeping these only as big as need we were virtually able to keep them the same size as a regular dana 60 outer, I am going off memory but I am pretty sure these are only .5" bigger from the axle CL so you do not loose ground clearance and have to added strength. For the testing, to my knowledge there has only been one to bend and that one was still ran after being bent with no problems. This is were the second version came from, the first were made with a 1" piece on the C and the one he currently has is 1.5". The sleeve in the axle tube will not affect anything if welded properly, if you think about the forces that will be applied the only feasible way of breaking would be twisting on the axle tube and that would be a lot of weld to break first.

Here is some dimensions to help if you are thinking about running these on your axle

 
hayitsray said:
I know this is not "front axle" but a super strong driveshaft I wanted to share a pic of
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Specs? Spline count, joint size, tube od and wall thickness, ect...
 
hayitsray said:
I didn't build them I just installed them I know they are 1480 and heavy
Click to expand...

Damn you really are moving on up. First it was "built not bought" next thing you know you're swiping your EBT card for knuckles and don't even know the specs of your drive shaft.

What kind of drive shaft you want? I don't know, just swipe this here EBT card and give me the best you got. Obama looks good for a 3rd term anyways. Dem boys on Hardline won't know what hit em! I don't need to know what it is as long as it'll hold up to my double secret probation batmobile engine.

Excellent tech!
 

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redneckengineered said:
Damn you really are moving on up. First it was "built not bought" next thing you know you're swiping your EBT card for knuckles and don't even know the specs of your drive shaft.

What kind of drive shaft you want? I don't know, just swipe this here EBT card and give me the best you got. Obama looks good for a 3rd term anyways. Dem boys on Hardline won't know what hit em! I don't need to know what it is as long as it'll hold up to my double secret probation batmobile engine.

Excellent tech!
Click to expand...

The batmobile has been retired...... he stripped it down to bare chassis and is building a new one called The Dark Knight buggy.....
 

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What are you wanting different about your chassis? And I'm not being a smart ass I'm always curious to what people want to change.
 

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