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Rockwells make your sac swell!

Re: My first set of rocks

Skidkid said:
Do this and you'll be replacing broken axle shafts. That bolt on the knuckle stop is there for a reason.

Most people I know remove the bolts and use the steering ram as the stop. We're not breaking shafts.
 
Skidkid said:
Do this and you'll be replacing broken axle shafts. That bolt on the knuckle stop is there for a reason.

You can adjust the bolt in if you want but you'll have to cut the spot weld off of it and replace it with a new bolt. Raise your steering axle off the ground with both wheels free. Turn the wheels over by had and adjust the knuckle stop bolt in. Once you feel and notching/binding in the wheel, back the bolt back out a couple turns. Once you get it set, retack weld it in place.

Basically what's happening is, your axle shaft ujoint ears are touching the inside of it's connecting axle shaft. To get even more steering out of them, you can grind out the inside sides of the "C" areas on both inner and outer axle shafts to gain more clearance for more steering angle.

Rockwells are only going to turn so sharp due to the knuckle / boot design anyway. I wouldn't fawk with any of it, just stuff a rear steer Rockwell in it and be done.

Yea, if you dont center the cylinder and make it steer too much one way then it will break axles. We have been running these cylinders for years with no issues, even with built 6.0 with FAST injection.


Go BIG Or Go Home!! ????
 
Re: My first set of rocks

NTIDWELL said:
thank u sir yes showgirl is a bad bitch glad she from Missouri also
There s bout to be another bad bitch from Missouri in 3 weeks or so ;) ;) ;)
 
fl-krawler said:
My knuckles bottom out against the housing before my shafts bind :dunno: :flipgotcha:

I think it depends on the shafts you use. My Ouversons allow the knuckle to bottom on the housing whereas my old stockers bottomed out before that.
 
I've never measured. I'm the wrong person to ask anyway. I can notice the difference between correct and incorrect Ackerman on my rig and apparently I am an anally retentive, OCD-inflicted, douche-fag for being able to do so.
 
Hey patoyee while your on here sell me on your brakes!
Any improvements or deals coming up? From now until Christmas? What is total cost to do two axles?
 
Depends on how perfect you need your brackets. I have a deal going right now on some blemished pinion brakes that the laser cut a little rough. They save you $12 off the regular price and work just like the regular ones, the cuts are just a little rougher.

http://patparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=40&osCsid=ajsj2ir04cnsihc3u4090pp2n4

Here's the same thing only not blemished:

http://patparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=37&osCsid=ajsj2ir04cnsihc3u4090pp2n4

Just to help budget, don't forget to add in the cost of the caliper you'll need that I don't sell.

I try to just offer a fair price every day instead of running constant specials. As such, I have not had any sales or anything in the past and do not plan to in the near future.

I am working on a new version of the pinion brake but it won't be available for a few months at least and it will be considerably more expensive than what I have now if it does come to fruition. I wouldn't wait on it, its not an improvement, just a different design.

Website is the best way to buy. By doing it there you get shipping updates via email and a better price than on eGay. You can use Paypal or any major credit card. Thanks for the interest.
 
I get 37* of steering out of mine, running custom steering arms and a 9" ram. Ram bottoms out just before the knuckle hits the housing
 
I have 16 spline ouversons... Your saying I can take the stop of the knuckle and let it go? I'd love a tighter turning radius, I have broke bendix shafts doing this so I didn't wanna test the theory with new parts
 
Eddyj said:
So been doing some more reading my plan is to go pinion brake on opposite side of drive shaft. Ag ram mounted to tie rod. Flipped hubs. ? Rims, what backspacing with this setup? And has anyone welded in their own centers? Who makes a good budget rim or center?

You guys have been awesome with tech. Hell I even more ready for my rocks, I didn't know there was a whole subculture in the offroad comunity that was this cool.

I made my wheels, water jet cut out the centers and got HD shells from MRW out of AR. I welded 1/2" rod around the bead lips also. They are 10"x17" with 2" backspacing. I was worried about the crazy off set so I installed six 1/4" thick 1911 gun gussets from center to shell to aid in strength... maybe. I'm also running innerairlock bead locks in them.

I'd buy wheels from Stazwerks if I did it again.
 
patooyee said:
I've never measured. I'm the wrong person to ask anyway. I can notice the difference between correct and incorrect Ackerman on my rig and apparently I am an anally retentive, OCD-inflicted, douche-fag for being able to do so.

Don't be so hard on yourself, it's just how you are wired. Very technical detailed orientated.
 
Rockwells607 said:
I have 16 spline ouversons... Your saying I can take the stop of the knuckle and let it go? I'd love a tighter turning radius, I have broke bendix shafts doing this so I didn't wanna test the theory with new parts

Basically do like I mentioned earlier in this thread. On an open knuckle front like a D44 or D60, you can watch the axle shafts touch each other at full turn while turning the knuckle stop bolt in for sharper turning radios. You can take a die grinder with a carbide bit and remove material on the inner C section between the ujoint ears on the axle shafts clearancing them allowing a sharper turning radius.

On a closed knuckle Rockwell, you'll have to turn the axle shafts by hand with the steering at full turn and feel the binding or shafts touching each other. Naturally, you'll need the diff off the ground and remove the drive shaft and wheels for less resistance to turn over by hand. I never said you could not get more turning radius out of a Rockwell with stock axle shafts, I mainly said you need to adjust for it carefully or you will break your shafts due to binding.

Some after market shafts won't allow the same turning radius as factory shafts in one ton axles. Yukons have real goofy thick C areas on their shafts and need to be ground out for sharper steering.
 
Rockwells607 said:
I have 16 spline ouversons... Your saying I can take the stop of the knuckle and let it go? I'd love a tighter turning radius, I have broke bendix shafts doing this so I didn't wanna test the theory with new parts

No, I'm saying you can remove the stock stops and turn your knuckles and shafts by hand until they bind, and then set your steering ram up so that it stops just short of that point where it binds, thereby using your steering ram as your stop instead of the stock bolts.


Skidkid said:
Don't be so hard on yourself, it's just how you are wired. Very technical detailed orientated.

I was just being sarcastic. Thanks for the pep talk though ... I was about to guzzle this gallon of bleach until you said something. :)

That was my point though. Apparently my detail-oriented wiring makes the loss of a small amount of steering more important to me than others find the same loss. If you're one of those people who don't care, just run the stock stops and don't worry about it. If you're like me in that you do care, put some elbow grease into it and you'll realize an improvement.
 
Skidkid said:
Yours is still setting on jack stands too. :flipoff1:

My new buggy is, but the old one ran the stops removed with a 10" ram to the stock knuckle with no issue
19075_103332826360018_7901399_n.jpg


And the "rental" that I sometimes borrow and wheel is running a 9" ram with custom neutral ackerman steering arms , and no steering stops. The knuckle juuuust bottoms as the ram maxes out (same as my new buggy)

389903_159982874107191_1892038039_n.jpg
 
But as patooyee has pointed out, not all are the same. I have lots of rockwells pass through my shop, and I have seen large differences in the housings themselves.
 
fl-krawler said:
But as patooyee has pointed out, not all are the same. I have lots of rockwells pass through my shop, and I have seen large differences in the housings themselves.

I'm modifying my front steering right now. I have Ouverson 16 splines in the front and can confirm that my knuckles absolutely bottom out in both directions before the shafts bind. But after making some brackets that tie into the stock steering stop holes I just discovered that my right knuckle hole is about 1/2" off from my left knuckle hole. >:( So yes, there are large variances from axle to axle and even within the same axle.
 
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