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So i bought a 51 Whilly

can i assume injector pulse and spark pulse come from the ecu ?

what kind of pulse should i see?

is it a 12V pulse or a ground pulse?

arent the injector pink wire hot at all times and the other is the pulse wire?

i have a great meter and can set to scope to read pulses but you need to know what to expect to set the scope parameters.

or can i just use a test light?

What you have can help determine what way to go. If you have spark but no injector pulse--then you look at the ECU/feeds to the injector(yes pink is hot and the other wire is toggled by the ecu).

Now if you have injector pulse but no spark then you kow the pickup coil in the dist is good and the reference side/feed from the ignition module is ok--may be just the trigger portion of the ignition module thats bad. But thyat can be checked with a test like on the pink/white wire (double wire connector at the dist) to see if you get a light flash durring crank. If thats the case then you look at the coil.

But until you can verify you have injector pulse or not your just spinning in circles.
 
What you have can help determine what way to go. If you have spark but no injector pulse--then you look at the ECU/feeds to the injector(yes pink is hot and the other wire is toggled by the ecu).

Now if you have injector pulse but no spark then you kow the pickup coil in the dist is good and the reference side/feed from the ignition module is ok--may be just the trigger portion of the ignition module thats bad. But thyat can be checked with a test like on the pink/white wire (double wire connector at the dist) to see if you get a light flash durring crank. If thats the case then you look at the coil.

But until you can verify you have injector pulse or not your just spinning in circles.


Ok thanks ill check inj pulse first thing. last night i did however do the flash during crank on the two dist wires and the light was on steady no flicker.
 
I bet you don't have injector pulse......Isn't this an early vortec OBD-I system? It should have a ground in the harness....

The vortc's (cpi) were all OBD I standards.

I don't think its a ground--you could unplug the ECM and still get spark.
 
The vortc's (cpi) were all OBD I standards.

I don't think its a ground--you could unplug the ECM and still get spark.

My thought is (and I don't know anything for a fact) that the system needs a ground but doesn't have it so it's pulling ground through another sensor.....like the grounded ESC module. If that's happening it could have toasted the module.......It could have done this prior to grounding the ECM also.
 
My thought is (and I don't know anything for a fact) that the system needs a ground but doesn't have it so it's pulling ground through another sensor.....like the grounded ESC module. If that's happening it could have toasted the module.......It could have done this prior to grounding the ECM also.

Are you getting confused with the ESC module and the ignition module? Because depending on what years there was a seperate module that was later on integrated into the ecm. Regardless if you disconnect the ecm you will still get spark. Now the argument you have made regarding bad grounds internally at the dist can happen because the ignition module gets its ground at the hold down screws and thru the dist since the ecm does not ground any part of the ignition module.
 
Are you getting confused with the ESC module and the ignition module? .

Yes EST/ ICM module not ESC too many acronyms. Didn't Hip say it has no knock sensor?
What ECM does it have? Aren't these P4 ECM's which would have the knock module built in?
Hip don't get too sidetracked by my harness ground questions. I find it hard to believe they would make a harness without the required wires in it but this does seem odd..
 
I forget when they integrated the knock sensor to the ecm(just rambling stuff off my head). But it was around 91-92ish.
 
i didnt install the engine harness a buddy did. it does have a few ground wires built into the harness and they are all on.

i do have injector pulse.

i finished steps 5 and 6 and replaced the Ing Module and now i have spark at the coil. :cheer:

had to go to the dentist and wont get to try and start till saturday but i feel better now that i have spark.

already verified fuel pressure so should be good to go.
 
i didnt install the engine harness a buddy did. it does have a few ground wires built into the harness and they are all on.

i do have injector pulse.

i finished steps 5 and 6 and replaced the Ing Module and now i have spark at the coil. :cheer:

had to go to the dentist and wont get to try and start till saturday but i feel better now that i have spark.

already verified fuel pressure so should be good to go.

Good news!:cheer:
 
i didnt install the engine harness a buddy did. it does have a few ground wires built into the harness and they are all on.

i do have injector pulse.

i finished steps 5 and 6 and replaced the Ing Module and now i have spark at the coil. :cheer:

had to go to the dentist and wont get to try and start till saturday but i feel better now that i have spark.

already verified fuel pressure so should be good to go.

Good good.
 
so next time i have more that a few minutes ill give her a test. once i get the motor to start then put all those wires away with wrapping and tiedowns.:D

then on to the diffs.
 
yeah thats been on my mind i looked for the iron and could not find it, i wll look again after i clean the shop. before next weekend id assume. i probably loaned it to someone....

this weekend i have two goals.

start the motor.

put the wiring away, wrapped taped and clamped in place.
 
Welded in the muffler, plugged the vacuum connection on the back of the manifold to the brake booster.

cranked it over a little.

turned on the fuel pump, started right up:cheer::cheer::cheer::cool:

but it threw off my serpentine belt. probably my compressor alignment...

but i can put the wires away.:awesomework:
 
well i have a few problems:

Power steering pully and P pump i bought from S&N. the pully has the wrong depth for the belt by 1/4". sticks out too far.

i cant space the pump back anymore as the pressure fitting is 1/16" from contacting the block. i had to gring off the eng block mold flashing to get the fitting on.

i dont have a clue as to who's pulley it is or where to find the correct one...

my remote filter system leaks bad.:redneck:

the tranny has a bad leak on the front somewhere?
 

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