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So i bought a 51 Whilly

Serpentine and to put the pump into the bracket you have to pull the pulley so if i turn it then i cant ever take it apart.

i cant machine off the bacl either as that would take most of the web that holds the pully to the hub.

i just need a different offset with the same size Dia pulley to maintain proper pump speed.

searching now...
 
so i have a PSC 2450
5.6" Serpentine 6 Rib P,N,CB Series Pump

PP-2450-sm_LRG.jpg


Pulley used in 1475 / 1485 P pump kits and Jeep 4.0 /2.5 P pump conversions.
Also works with any P, N, and CB series pumps.
Details
Part NoPP2450Weight1.00 lbs Price:$49.00
QuantityPrice**Note:

Options





and i am pretty sure i need a PSC 2455

5.2" GM Vortec Serpentine 6 Rib P,N,CB Series Pump

PP-2455-sm_LRG.jpg


Billet pulley 5.2" diameter serpentine 6 rib billet pulley for all GM Vortec engines. Helps low RPM steering performance. Will fit on all P, N, and CB series pumps.Details
Part NoPP2455Weight1.00 lbs Price:$49.00


Anyone need what i have and wanna trade?
 
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Brad came through for me and gave me one he had sitting in his shop for years.

It will work its the perfect dia and i can make it align.

Im pretty sure my CPI spider is toast. runs but surges at idle. spits and sputters but does rev up. lots of black smoke and the smell of raw gas after i shut it off around the engine. no external fuel leaks. been sitting almost three years.

fawker is louder than i want, ill find a new muffler.

bad tranny leak up front:looser:

ohh well we will get to find out if my drop the entire setup straight down plan will work or not...:booo:
 
I just installed a new spider and nut kit in my cpi yesterday but it didn't fix my problem of slight misfire/ low fuel pressure. I found a kinked fuel line I need to replace that I hope fixes it. Mine has 60psi KOEO and 54psi running. If I pinch the return line off enough to raise the pressure to 60psi it runs pretty good. I talked to a tech that said they won't run right under 58psi. If you do the spider make sure to change the fuel lines to it also. If you pull the tuning valve you get a pretty good look inside the plenum to see if there is a fuel leak present. Good luck.
 
I hate to say it Hip, But sounds like a front pump seal. Happened when my first tube thingy was done.....frikken lame but now you get to see how servceable the rig is.
 
Bunk said:
I hate to say it Hip, But sounds like a front pump seal. Happened when my first tube thingy was done.....frikken lame but now you get to see how servceable the rig is.
Click to expand...


yeah and the bitch is just had the tranny gone through to see if it was worthwhile using....like ya said i designed service into the drive train by making it able to drop straight down. but the available days til KOH are slipping by much faster than i want.:booo:
 
tranny issue discovered???

the front pump cover bolts were finger tight, so i started the engine and the front cover leaked pretty bad.

can i get away with just tightning/torque them down or should i tear the pump cover off and replace gaskets?
 
I remember about 3 months ago when I was having issues with my rig... you sir Hip posted up this comment.

"i bought a pump, pully, ram, and matching valve from S&N i sure hope i dont have all the issues you are? watching and learning from your problems though."

I feel your pain man... sorry to hear you are having problems with the tranny too.
 
Hip said:
the front pump cover bolts were finger tight, so i started the engine and the front cover leaked pretty bad.

can i get away with just tightning/torque them down or should i tear the pump cover off and replace gaskets?
Click to expand...

If you can get to the bolts while in the rig, I'd just tighten them and see what happens. However I'm guessing you cannot reach the upper bolts, which will neccessitate a removal.. at that point, I'd drain the trans, stand it on end and replace the gasket before reinstallation.
 
i talked with the guy who went through the tranny and he said he just didnt torque them. he said he put a new gasket and to tighten them up and should be good to go. tranny is already back in filled with fluid and no leaks...:cheer:

yes to get the upper the torqu converter must be out so the tranny had to come out. wasnt so bad left the motor alone and remover the cases then the tranny dropped right down no issues.

so put away a lot of loose ends and wiring. reinstall the dashboard.

gears and lockers next weekend.
 
Maverick26 said:
I remember about 3 months ago when I was having issues with my rig... you sir Hip posted up this comment.

"i bought a pump, pully, ram, and matching valve from S&N i sure hope i dont have all the issues you are? watching and learning from your problems though."

I feel your pain man... sorry to hear you are having problems with the tranny too.
Click to expand...


i believe i have those issues worked out now. i had to push the pulley a little more onto the shaft i had to get a sleeve so i could do that. the pully pusher on thingy was bottoming out on the pump shaft. its all ligned up now and didnt throw off my belt. so now ill try a nother new belt.
 
finnished putting the wires away minus two insulated cable clamps, i ran out.

worked on an exhaust leak i had some, i made it better but i need a gasket.

put the linkage together for the transmission and transfer cases. after a little adjustment, i have all gear positions. :awesomework:
the Xfercase yokes dont even leak yet.

tomorrow its weather stripping and put the floorboards down.:D
 
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Rear is done, its as close as its ever gonna get. i move it .002 closer and it gets worse, if i move it .001 away it gets worse. its definately not perfect.

my ARB is back with a new bearing in place of my setup bearing.....:haha:

hopefully ill finnish it tomorrow while the seahawks and niners are going at it.

yeah so close and then the state went and cut the hours for my care provider so after jan 1st, i either have to quit my job, put mom in a home or start paying out of my own pocket for another two hours each day so 140 a week, just so i can maintain working in my shop weekends.:eeek::booo::rolleyes:

Tom, i should have your tool back to you monday, thanks a million.
 
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Who makes the strongest axels now?

gear set up is done, now i need to research who axel are best.

the long side is easy 35.1" which is stock for chevy and dodge mid 80s.

the short side is 16.375"

chevy short is 15.9"....Superior make one for a JK at 16.1"?

So who make the strongest axels out there now with the best warranty?
 
i was gonna go with yukon since Jonathan worked there in the warrantee dept but he no longer does and i am just not a fan of Yukon stuff.

one year warranty verses lifetime at superior, but warranty means less to me that original strength.

i need to find a thread where bobby breaks all the different axels and specs them all out at thier breaking points.:awesomework:

where did i see that was it on pirate?
 

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