• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

The Apocalypse Redux: Nuzzy's return to the trail...

Please inform me what a real axle is?:fawkdancesmiley:

35 spline throughout would be good though.:flipoff:


Super 35 Rear end:awesomework: That is a real axle.

It is always good to hear something run, and not half bad either, after leaving it to sit and rot and expect nothing of it...:awesomework:
 
Tell me it's not true, your gonna finally go 35 spline????

Well you are my hero, your "old busted" 35 spline detroit is saving me 5 or 6 hundred dollar's and a month of saving. :heartpump:

...just gotta change the outers

hurry up and get that shitbox on the trail :cool:
 
Oil pressure gauge in. Found out water temp gauge needs drilled/tapped because new one is bigger. Clocking ring is now back on tcase. Engine/tranny/tcase getting mocked up to flat belly and clear front DS (slightly angled and cocked).

Got new welding helmet, rod, hammer, etc itching to be used. All electrical wire, ends, shrink wrap, and connectors along with an outlet, wire, and 50 amp for the panel to run a 220 to the garage ordered this week for fun next weekend.

:cool:
 
Random pics cause I'm bored...


No more chain "holding" my motor in place :booo:

DSC05151800x600.jpg



My old water temp sender got so hot it fell apart when I tried to take it out :haha: Hole isn't big enough for the new one and it doesn't look like there's enough material there to drill and tap a new hole so I may just have to plug it and find somewhere else.

DSC05153800x600.jpg



No clue what these wires were to (they were unplugged), but they sure had melted to the head :redneck:

DSC05154800x600.jpg



Mmmmmm, shiney

DSC05155800x600.jpg



Couldn't figure out why my skid plate/tranny support wouldn't come off after undoing all the bolts until I remembered Jobless had welded in place to keep it on, so out came the grinder

DSC05156800x600.jpg



Not sure how many times this thing has been in and out, but it's a lot :D

DSC05157800x600.jpg



New oil sender in place

DSC05158800x600.jpg



Just waiting to figure out the water sender

DSC05159800x600.jpg



I heart 50% discounts

DSC05161800x600.jpg



$25 worth of warm fuzzy feelings. Although I still need to pick up some 5/32 I think

DSC05162800x600.jpg
 
Since my old alt was at the very end of its adjustment and that still was a touch loose, I went ahead and got a slightly smaller serp belt from NAPA to go along with my new 160 amp alt.

DSC00604800x600.jpg




Now for my thermal switch to the elec fan, I'll be mounting it in the radiator. Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to install to avoid leaks??

DSC00607800x600.jpg
 
Good that your moving forward again:cheer: all those nickle and dime things are a real time sucker (not to mention $$$):booo: Theres a waterneck off of an 6 that has a bung in it for a vacume switch that will work for your water temp if your not using the emmissions stuff. I will try and dig around and see if I still have one kicking about but I doubt it. You can get one that goes into a radiator hose as well (jegs,summit)
 
Get rid of that plastic line.... It'll get brittle in a couple months and break on you leaving you with a 1/8" pressurized oil leak.. :haha: Grab some 1/8" copper line and never worry about it again. :;


I'd put the fan switch in the stock temp sender location rather than in teh radiator. The radiator will give out all sorts of odd readings as the water will be cooling off while its in there.

I can't remember off the top of my head but there is a location for the temp sender for you gauge on that engine somewhere... Sorry I can't remember exacts, I'm a yota guy. :haha:
 
Since my old alt was at the very end of its adjustment and that still was a touch loose, I went ahead and got a slightly smaller serp belt from NAPA to go along with my new 160 amp alt.

DSC00604800x600.jpg




Now for my thermal switch to the elec fan, I'll be mounting it in the radiator. Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to install to avoid leaks??

DSC00607800x600.jpg


Teflon tape. If theres anyway possible mount the switch in the motor. The temp in the radiator isnt the same as the motor or as consistant. if you mount it in the top and get low on coolant or even a long sidehill you can find your fans shutting off:booo: (this is from past expieriance)
 
Since I'm currently on hold for electrical waiting for parts, I figured I'd continue ripping out old mounts and get things mocked up for the new ones.


Yes those are OSHA approved ski goggles

DSC05186800x600.jpg



I'm not gonna have a floor by the time I'm done :redneck:

DSC05189800x600.jpg



Bastard ass mounts that caused this mess :pissed:

DSC05190800x600.jpg


DSC05191800x600.jpg



All gone

DSC05194800x600.jpg



Figured I could reuse these for the new mounts since they're already the right size

DSC05196800x600.jpg



Then again, maybe I should just rock these new lightweight ratchet strap motor mounts :D

DSC05198800x600.jpg



Trying to figure how I want to do the new crossmember

DSC05205800x600.jpg



It's gonna be super tight tolerances between the front DS and starter once the tcase is clocked flat. Currently thinking the motor will need to be rotated a few degrees so the starter is higher, and also cocked within the frame rails so the the motor is closer to driver and the tcase is closer to passenger.

DSC05210800x600.jpg



This stuff should work for the MMs

DSC05213800x600.jpg



And chances are this will be at least part of my crossmember

DSC05214800x600.jpg



Now if I can just get the outlet for this wired into my panel, I'll be LOVING life :cool:

DSC05216800x600.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nuzzy im trying to cut and paste those poly bushings over into my thread as i lost one of mine....get er done:beer:
 
Back
Top