"The mistress"

[Bunk1]

Im surprised none else has anything to say

Weld in bungs...uke:

work looks great though:beer:

 

[jeepmauler]

Im surprised none else has anything to say

ummmmm....OK

The upper link mount in this pic(NOT panhard) is going to fail...there is NOT enough material left between the holes in the side,vertical link tabs and the back gusset plate that stops half way up(with two round holes in it). Even though the rig is light with little HP.....the gearing,tires and 3 link design are gonna wipe that sucker out......for sure. I"d continue that back plate at least another inch higher up to get back into some meat and not create a stress riser at the thin portion of the link tab.

The panhard angle looks good.....................IF the rig were at ride height.You want the Panhard to be AT LEAST flat ,or better yet inverted, at ride height.

 

[Jason C]

Thanks man,I appreciate it.This thing is taking forever but im trying to cover all the lil details and make stuff nice.

Im surprised none else has anything to say,maYbe its just to much overkill for some taste.i like over kill.lol:awesomework:

Your over kill will most likely give you a "happy" housing.... Good luck keeping seals in that front diff when your done :;. and X2 on the comment from Mall'er... that upper link mount on the housing is going to collapse. I PROMISE! :awesomework: Adding stringth with effiecinecy not just throwing metal at it because it looks cool! On a good note your fitting and fab (bracketry) looks great but you need welding practice. would you like me to continue? :flipoff:

 

[rockmike]

Righton,this is why I started this build thread here.Ive seen alot of cool builds here,**** beond me.

Yall should speak up sooner if ya think theres issues.

Believe me Ive looked at that upper mount and said damn I took way to much out of that.Thats why every thing is tacked for the most part.I can remove that and make one stronger.

Thanks Mike.:beer: :corn:

 

[rockmike]

Weld in bungs...uke:

work looks great though:beer:

lol you prefer to thread the inside of the tube?

 

[rockmike]

I didnt get this pic in there,I did address the fact there was nothing in there above that hole in the side.I layed a 1/4" rounded gusset in there to add some strength to the 2 mounts ears etc.

I didnt post the pic cause I got to take it back out cause its crooked,oops.

So you think a gusset in there and maybe a tall one on the sides would get this up to snuff?

 

[rockmike]

Your over kill will most likely give you a "happy" housing.... Good luck keeping seals in that front diff when your done :;. and X2 on the comment from Mall'er... that upper link mount on the housing is going to collapse. I PROMISE! :awesomework: Adding stringth with effiecinecy not just throwing metal at it because it looks cool! On a good note your fitting and fab (bracketry) looks great but you need welding practice. would you like me to continue? :flipoff:

would you like me to continue? :flipoff:[/QUOTE]Please do.

 

[Jason C]

would you like me to continue? :flipoff:

Please do.[/quote]


I would re investigate your axle truss... is it really needed and ask yourself is that where they bend? I seem to remember it being right next to the socket where it attaches into the housing... (which is why they make stiffiners for that application) than there is always starting with a better axle in the first place.... like maybe a 60 and not put a ton of money into something you will not get **** for in the long run saving yourself money and time down the road. :flipoff::redneck: it really does not need the brace like you have added... it does not make it bad ass it makes it an "extra heavy" tuna can now. you shockmounts are so overkill... it's just a shock. you over engineered the hell out of them for a light rig. all that girth for a little 1/2" bolt. stay with the light theme it will be more reliable in the long run. hopefully you wll be thinking more (efficient) when you build your cage. gawd forbid you would roll... you'd have running gear from a toyota weighing the same as rockwells and would squish the $hit out of ya!:; the only ppl your going to impress with this is an idiot that does not know the difference. All jabs and joking aside. you have skills for fabbing nice. just put the strength where it is needed and build efficiently. More tube or more metal does not mean stronger.

 

[rockmike]

Please do.

I would re investigate your axle truss... is it really needed and ask yourself is that where they bend? I seem to remember it being right next to the socket where it attaches into the housing... (which is why they make stiffiners for that application) than there is always starting with a better axle in the first place.... like maybe a 60 and not put a ton of money into something you will not get **** for in the long run saving yourself money and time down the road. :flipoff::redneck: it really does not need the brace like you have added... it does not make it bad ass it makes it an "extra heavy" tuna can now. you shockmounts are so overkill... it's just a shock. you over engineered the hell out of them for a light rig. all that girth for a little 1/2" bolt. stay with the light theme it will be more reliable in the long run. hopefully you wll be thinking more (efficient) when you build your cage. gawd forbid you would roll... you'd have running gear from a toyota weighing the same as rockwells and would squish the $hit out of ya!:; the only ppl your going to impress with this is an idiot that does not know the difference. All jabs and joking aside. you have skills for fabbing nice. just put the strength where it is needed and build efficiently. More tube or more metal does not mean stronger. [/QUOTE]

Again I like the input.

The T.G. axle truss:It goes right where its suposed to go.If I moved it more toward the end of the housing closer to the knuckle ball it wouldnt reach the pumpkin.Is that the best place for a truss.I dunno thats where I see everybody else put them.All kinds of after market companys seell them to be put just right there.I still have a bottom truss to build and install.


"it really doesnt need the brace like you have added"

Are you still refering to the T.G. truss? or are talking about the driversside brace that the coilover mount welds to?


Shock mount: It is a coilover mount,all the weight of the rig will be slamming down on to that at times.Is it overkill,ya im sure of it.But Im cool with it.Peace of mind right there.


Wrong axle to start with: to me thats just a matter of opinion.Ill have about $1200 tied up in this front end cause I have an old arb for it bought relativly cheap along time ago.I get a smokin deal on T.G. dirty 30's.Maybe Ill regret not useing abigger axle someday,well see.


As heavy as a Rockwell:Theres no doubt this will weigh much more than a stock housing.But will still weigh much less than a dana 60.Im going to weigh it when Im done welding it all up....after I practice my welding some more.hehe

I think concidering Ive never built anything like this ever and im no engeineer im just an retired bricklayer that works at a parts counter now.I think its coming along nicely,is it the perfect front end...hell no,will it hold up to some abuse...I think hell yes it will.

Look forward to you reply,thanks,Mike.

 

[Pook]

Nice work/fitment. I agree its looking a bit overkill except for your upper front link mount itlooks like its going to bend/tear in half pretty quick. The side windows are way to large.

:beer:

 

[LIKES2CRAWL]

I would re investigate your axle truss... is it really needed and ask yourself is that where they bend? I seem to remember it being right next to the socket where it attaches into the housing... (which is why they make stiffiners for that application) than there is always starting with a better axle in the first place.... like maybe a 60 and not put a ton of money into something you will not get **** for in the long run saving yourself money and time down the road. :flipoff::redneck: it really does not need the brace like you have added... it does not make it bad ass it makes it an "extra heavy" tuna can now. you shockmounts are so overkill... it's just a shock. you over engineered the hell out of them for a light rig. all that girth for a little 1/2" bolt. stay with the light theme it will be more reliable in the long run. hopefully you wll be thinking more (efficient) when you build your cage. gawd forbid you would roll... you'd have running gear from a toyota weighing the same as rockwells and would squish the $hit out of ya!:; the only ppl your going to impress with this is an idiot that does not know the difference. All jabs and joking aside. you have skills for fabbing nice. just put the strength where it is needed and build efficiently. More tube or more metal does not mean stronger.

WOW Mike, sounds like this guy needs a tall glass of HATORADE, or a trip back to Pirate!
He's building a "wheeler" not a "full on comp buggy", not everybody can run 60's.

Keep up the good work Mike.

 

[TreeClimber]

WOW Mike, sounds like this guy needs a tall glass of HATORADE, or a trip back to Pirate!
He's building a "wheeler" not a "full on comp buggy", not everybody can run 60's.

Keep up the good work Mike.

Hold on there L2C, I'm glad to hear Jason's opinion. He's built more rigs, and has a good understanding of the physics and dynamics involved. You may think they're negative-biased, but the opinions sound pretty objective to me.

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

After you weld up that truss and mounts I would re-true that housing(housing jig and straighten housing).

There is no way after all of those added components and welding that housing will still be straight. But I have been wrong before.

I'm in on the top link on the axle too much meat taken out of the metal. I think it will bend.

 

[Jason C]

WOW Mike, sounds like this guy needs a tall glass of HATORADE, or a trip back to Pirate!
He's building a "wheeler" not a "full on comp buggy", not everybody can run 60's.

Keep up the good work Mike.

did you miss the part where I said "All jabs and joking aside"??? bottom line is I am offering advice. he asked. Is he doing a good job? YES it would be more "dickish" of me to just let him build as he is and let him **** up his housing and end up with a turd right out of the gate. It is no advantage to me to offer any advice. I am not offering it to feed my ego or to feel better about myself. I have nothing to porve to ANY ONE on this bord or anywhere. I am just trying to help someone save themselves money and parts. the point is if he wants heavy start with heavy and it will last.

I do not get out to wheel much but when I do the last thing I want to run into is some dude broken in the trail being a trail tampon. If I have the opertunity to help when asked I will so, And later I will not have to deal with some shitbox blocking the trail. :;

After you weld up that truss and mounts I would re-true that housing(housing jig and straighten housing).

There is no way after all of those added components and welding that housing will still be straight. But I have been wrong before.

I'm in on the top link on the axle too much meat taken out of the metal. I think it will bend.

This is one way you would think to handle it, but you cannot do that with the birf ends on that style front housing. the ends of the housing are machiened for the ends to slide in they are not a butt weld, but are a slight press fit. Even if this on a rear housing where you butt weld the ends on the deflection would be so much the ends would be more than 1" off not allowing the housing ends to align with the carrier.... How do I know? I have learned alot from screwing up in the past. people can either learn from my mistakes or they can learn from their own. the beauty of advice... you can take it or leave it.

 

[rockmike]

GUys please dont feel like you need to defend me,I dont feel affended at all.Like Jason said I asked,I did.

Bottom line hes right,the pic he saw didnt have that other brace in there.Im sure with out it I could have a problem.But I think with it I should be ok.I have an idea to help strengthin that upper link mount up eavan more.

I have never built anything like this before,thats why I started the thread.I was hoping to get some advice as I go,so I dont screw this up.Im not a proffesional fabricator im just a passiant guy that enjoys fabbing,and thought I would build me a new zuke with a link suspension.

Im listening,I feel like im getting good advice.Ive been worried about axle housing warpage all along.honestly Im not sure the correct proccess to weld this up.Im going to call on a friend of mine who has built alot of high end race cars and ask him to help with the welding with his tig machine.

I dont want this thread turning into pissing match.Nothing good will come of that.

Thanks for EVERYBODYS comments and help.Hope to get more as i move along.:beer:

When I get to the back 4 link I have some very pointed questions I hope to get good answers to.If some are worried about to much secret info or whatever,maybe youll be gracious enough to answer in pm's.

Thanks appreciate it guys,Mike.:beer:

 

[LIKES2CRAWL]

Hold on there L2C, I'm glad to hear Jason's opinion. He's built more rigs, and has a good understanding of the physics and dynamics involved. You may think they're negative-biased, but the opinions sound pretty objective to me.

did you miss the part where I said "All jabs and joking aside"??? bottom line is I am offering advice. he asked. Is he doing a good job? YES it would be more "dickish" of me to just let him build as he is and let him **** up his housing and end up with a turd right out of the gate. It is no advantage to me to offer any advice. I am not offering it to feed my ego or to feel better about myself. I have nothing to porve to ANY ONE on this bord or anywhere. I am just trying to help someone save themselves money and parts. the point is if he wants heavy start with heavy and it will last.

I do not get out to wheel much but when I do the last thing I want to run into is some dude broken in the trail being a trail tampon. If I have the opertunity to help when asked I will so, And later I will not have to deal with some shitbox blocking the trail. :;





This is one way you would think to handle it, but you cannot do that with the birf ends on that style front housing. the ends of the housing are machiened for the ends to slide in they are not a butt weld, but are a slight press fit. Even if this on a rear housing where you butt weld the ends on the deflection would be so much the ends would be more than 1" off not allowing the housing ends to align with the carrier.... How do I know? I have learned alot from screwing up in the past. people can either learn from my mistakes or they can learn from their own. the beauty of advice... you can take it or leave it.

I wasn't being all that serious about my coments, I guess the funny green guy with his junk doing the windmill wasn't clear enough for that!
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[rockmike]

I wasn't being all that serious about my coments, I guess the funny green guy with his junk doing the windmill wasn't clear enough for that!
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Its all good man,I just wanted to do some of my own moderating to make sure this didnt turn into a pissing match.Need to keep this productive,ya know.Thanks bro.

 

[rangerboyhoff]

After you weld up that truss and mounts I would re-true that housing(housing jig and straighten housing).

There is no way after all of those added components and welding that housing will still be straight. But I have been wrong before

I thought that toyota housing came bent from the factory. . . . . . . . ?

 

[rockmike]

I ordered me up a 1.250x60" stress proof ground and poished rod to use for measuring purposes.I will make a jig and stress the housing the other way a sqeek before and during the welding.Ill just take my time and create as little heat as i can.

Ill have the rear suspension to work on at the same time so it will be easy to walk away from it and let it cool while I work on the back half of the rig.

Hopefully the housing gods will be in my favor.

 

[LIKES2CRAWL]

*UPDATES* *UPDATES* *UPDATES*

I know you been doing somethin......