"The mistress"

[rockmike]

I may have woke up

I decided the zuke t-case was not going to do what I need(not break and give me a dig)

But my toyokoygo trans sucks cause it dont bolt to anything,goofy spline count and such.

So im putting the front end on hold so I can spend money and time gathering up my new drivetrain.Also I dont want to build any suspension stuff untill the motor/trans/t-case. is mounted up and I know where everything needs to be.The engine stays where its at so it wont affect the front suspension,im refering to working on the rear 4 link.

The new plan:

I like my ford 2.3l,nobody can talk me out of useing it.:redneck:so it stayes!

My trans choice,for its strength and its adaptablity is the nv 3550 5 speed.The removable bellhousing will allow me to build my own adapter to fit my ford bellhousing.

My t-case choice: is the dana 300 because its got the same flang and bolt pattern as the nv3550.Plus its center output matches my toy rearend and I get a gear box dig!
The problem is the gearing options,not low enough for what I want.So dip into the sock and pull out some more ca$h:haha:
I decided on the 4:1 klunev david to put between the trans and t-case.This gives me a 224:1 crawl ratio.If I need wheelspeed just kick the klune into 1:1.

should be a pretty tuff drivetrain for a lightweight zuk:awesomework:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

For what you are doing why not grab an ax15 or even a yota V6 r150 and put a ax15 tailhousing on it? The R150 would be the best choice as it has a shorter input shaft and bellhousing as the nv3550 or ax15. The inputs can be changed between the r150 and ax15 but I don't know about the nv3550 I would suspect it can be done but no guarantee's.

Personally I'd go with the R150/ax15 tailhousing to a 231 box 4 rox then a dana 300 with 4:1's. SHorter length, deeper gearing overall, cheaper and it keeps the stress off the poor 300 input.

Whatever you do will end up cool, I've enjoyed your build so far.




EDIT: Oh and if you have a scattershield/bellhousing for a 2.3 it's easy to adapt it over to a R150, I know a guy that did it. PM or e-mail tj40ounce, he made a scatter shield adapt to a 3.8 ford very nicely.


Double edit: You didn't say you already had the stuff.. Sheesh, this is getting even better. :cheer:

 

[rockmike]

some pics of said new drivetrain

the nv 3550:

dana 300,twin sticked:

both:

and the big wallet drainer:

Now the fun begins,This trans dont bolt to no ford:haha:and nobody had adapters to do this.So you guessed it Ill build my own ****.:beer:cause I can.

First is to buy some 6061 plate 1"x12"x12"

 

[rockmike]

For what you are doing why not grab an ax15 or even a yota V6 r150 and put a ax15 tailhousing on it? The R150 would be the best choice as it has a shorter input shaft and bellhousing as the nv3550 or ax15. The inputs can be changed between the r150 and ax15 but I don't know about the nv3550 I would suspect it can be done but no guarantee's.

Personally I'd go with the R150/ax15 tailhousing to a 231 box 4 rox then a dana 300 with 4:1's. SHorter length, deeper gearing overall, cheaper and it keeps the stress off the poor 300 input.

Whatever you do will end up cool, I've enjoyed your build so far.




EDIT: Oh and if you have a scattershield/bellhousing for a 2.3 it's easy to adapt it over to a R150, I know a guy that did it. PM or e-mail tj40ounce, he made a scatter shield adapt to a 3.8 ford very nicely.


Double edit: You didn't say you already had the stuff.. Sheesh, this is getting even better. :cheer:

Thanks man,I talked to a friend of mine about some stuff like youre saying.But I just decided to go with this combo,its 4" shorter than the old set up and its a bolt up set up exept for the trans to ford thing....but I got that covered.

The best combo I dont know....but it will be a good combo, I think.

 

[chrissybf86]

some one is a high roller!!:masturbanana[1]:

 

[rockmike]

Ya you jumped in ther a lil to fast Trash :redneck: Been a while since I posted so yes I got the stuff.I eavan have already built the Heep trans to ford motor adapter.I kinda tired so Im just going to post teh pics of the
stuff.If yall got some questions,or concernes post away.:beer:
The ford side.

kinda of a test plate template to check for clearance areas.

The heep side.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Have you figured out a pilot bearing/bushing yet?

Oh, and I officially hate you. Well that is unless I can come play with your mill.. :redneck:

 

[rockmike]

lol,I get that alot.BUt ya Ryan if you need some stuff done as long as its not some huge project I would be happy to help a brother out.Mind you im no machinist im a newb on the machines,just kinda starting to get **** figured out im forced to train myself.

The pilot shaft is the last thing to modify for.The Heep input is much bigger than the ford.

I concidered machining down the Heep pilot bearing shaft,but I think thats going to be a bitch.There seems to be plenty of room in the crank area to bore it out 15thousands to get some wall thickness for a differant pilot bushing,plus the crank is cast instead of case hardned material=easier for me to machine.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

From my understanding the 3550 is just an upgraded ax15. Those trannies are in the same Aisin family as the r150 buuut they have about an inch longer input shafts. The ax15 has a small pilot bearing hub doohicky too... I don't see why you couldn't machind that biotch down, it's not like it has to be hardened or anything..


I know there was some silly little project I needed to do with a mill awhile back but the hell if I can remember what it was now.... IF I manage to remember I'd be happy to trade for bs time and beer... :redneck:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

SHIOT I just remembered... PM in bound.

 

[WAYCRAZY]

I know there was some silly little project I needed to do with a mill awhile back but the hell if I can remember what it was now.... IF I manage to remember I'd be happy to trade for bs time and beer... :redneck:

If I had a mill and skills to use it I think I would invent stuff to build.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

If I had a mill and skills to use it I think I would invent stuff to build.

Absolutely!

 

[rockmike]

Thats one of the reasons I chose this trans.I knew I would have to build an apdapter for it.Ive never built anything like this, wanted to see if I could pull it off,knowing I might have to build 2 or 3 to get it just right.I must be getting better cause it just took one try....nice.

Theres no greater feeling of satisfaction for myself....beeing abil to build youre own stuff! saves me some $$$ also, and having alot of fun doing it.

more pics.....

I got the spacer for the dana 300 to klune v built.Had to build a 3/4" spacer nothing special just a round piece of 6061 with 6holes drilled through.
The shinny one next to the black mounting foot piece.$75.00 from klune $12.00 and 4 hours from me lol

Assembled

 

[rockmike]

Time for some advice

I have no idea how a dana 300 is typicaly mounted as far as support from a cross member.


Here it in there,im thinkin a removable crossmember mounted on poly bushings that catches the trans mount.
Then another seperate crossmember that catched the mounting foot that klune v provided.

DO YOU GUYS THINK THIS WILL BE STRONG ENOUGH? or should I try to tie into somthing off the back of the dana 300?

 

[jeaton]

dont let it hang like that mike. roark of somthing of that nature makes a mount that goes around the atlas tailshaft housing, find it and copy if for strength! i would just stop by but i want to be cool like all of these "real" wheelers and get my post count up! lol

 

[rockmike]

Well you got a long way to go on that post count man..lol Thanks for you opinion bud!

I would agree,sure seems like alot of weight just hanging out back there.Granted there is a 1/4" steel mount right on the front of the dana 300 that klunev provided.So where talking the weight of the dana 300 is just 4" on the back side of that mount.I could see some heavy duty jarring of the t case (mobbing down a whoopdy dooo road or a landing off a dune jump) could cause thoes studs to loosen or stress the casings.

Anybody got any pics of what they have done on there set ups?

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

I made a mount that grabbed all the bolts around the front output shaft on the t case and connected it to my transmission crossmember. My transmission mount has the bushings on the frame rail, so it was easy to make it all one unit. You could always make a seperate mount like the roark mount, just dont let it be vulnerable to a belly impact.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

With the mount on the trans being available I'd make one large crossmember that ties in with the trans, klune/300 mount and the rear output bolts on the 300. Tie them all together with a tube crossmember with rubber yj bushings at the frame and you'll have a stiff mount that won't rattle.

 

[jeepmauler]

It wouldn't scare me abit to have that 300 hanging off the back of the Klune/billet spacer. Where you run into trouble is with OEM governor housings that work fine for 250K+ of road miles but were never intended for the torque/off road pounding we put them through.I'm on my third governor housing on the back of my C-6 and as far as OEM housings go it's pretty burl but NOTHING like the BURLINESS of the Klune/billet spacer that Rockmike has going on. I'd mount to the foot on the bottom of the Klune and let the 300 hang

 

[chrissybf86]

your making good time on this build..
the conv looks clean and the one off thing is awsome!

i would build a cross member that uses the tranny mount and the 300 mount mount and build a flat belly off of that. just to use up both of the mounting plates and to add the extra support .