The snawsage version---- something

[crash2]

I'll bring up hose and fittings for the 2nd cooler. I also think it would be neat to have the front cooler on a 3 way switch (as a poor mans heater) or not.

I'm extremely happy to see this thing get done.

We can do 2 seperate switchs for the coolers too...

 

[briejer]

I also may be pulling the T-case I have a guy to trade my 4.3 for his 3.8

And drive shafts are in the works.

 

[JOOP]

We can do 2 seperate switchs for the coolers too...

switches??? Did somebody mention switches?? Need an engraved panel??

 

[crash2]

switches??? Did somebody mention switches?? Need an engraved panel??

Unfortunately that won't work--once you see where the swtichs are mounted--it will make sense :awesomework:

 

[Harvester of Sorrow]

[/quote]

Is a guard in store for the face of the cooler? I would hate to see some mad debris make contact with such a critical component...

Looking good.

 

[crash2]

I had thought about that--but its actually pretty far up in the belly and pretty protected--the pictures don't give that any justice...

 

[Bunk1]

Id love to make a alum link to get rid of that all thread. Gimme a pm if interested.

 

[crash2]

Well it was a good productive day. I was able to finish the wiring on the back half of the rig...

I was finally able to figure out the relay pack for the rear winch--but unfortunatly I found it was bad (looses voltage on one leg) so once robin gets me a new one I will swap it out...

Robin had talked about some lights in the rear--but not sure if there will be room or if they will be done or not--but I decided to prewire 2 circuits to the tail just in case..

I had to think long and hard how I wanted to run the wiring thru the back wall. There were not many options due to the exhaust (running it down low) and I didn't want to lop a hole in the back wall and run the wiring thru that--since the wall was removable and would make needing to remove it a real bitch..

So I just ran it thru where the battery was.Here you can see the wiring coming from the rear steer valve (electric control)..

I also fought as to where to run the wiring forward--just not alot of options. But I decided to run it down the top of the tunnel. This will actually get changed a little bit due to I need to change what I found under the floor pan (positive battery cable)

 

[crash2]

Id love to make a alum link to get rid of that all thread. Gimme a pm if interested.

Please do joe----I noticed the passenger side one is bent. what measurements do you need?

 

[crash2]

So I pulled one of the floor pans because I noticed something melted...

Robin tried his best and I will give him an A for effort :; But I ripped a bunch of stuff out--and reconfigured a few things and made some new stuff--hope to have that done tommorow night....

But I am trying my best to pop thru this stuff :awesomework:

 

[briejer]

I just got back from a hike and the first thing i thought of was looking at my buggy. Your the man, Crash.... I am very pleased!!

 

[briejer]

Another thing......The exhaust can be removed. Porter has offered up his lift and exhaust bender. So remove whatever you wish and give me an idea of what I should bend up at Porters.

 

[crash2]

Another thing......The exhaust can be removed. Porter has offered up his lift and exhaust bender. So remove whatever you wish and give me an idea of what I should bend up at Porters.

The only thing I can say about the exhaust----its goona have to be in the same location--just can be a tad lower(closer to the skid plate) but I am going to do my best to keep **** away from it :redneck:

 

[crash2]

Ok I have been poking away at this and its starting to shape up. The only part I can't finish is the bundle along the engine since I have to tie the power steering return off the rear valve assembley into the rear cooler.. Hopefully robin brings me enough goodies to handle that :awesomework:

But here is the configuration I have come up with....

The lines that cross over are the tranny cooler and feed for the propane. And at the seat it pops out and onto the tin. It was the only way to ensure everything stays safely away from the heat and links for the rear. Plus it also dives it out right where it needs to be behind the rear wall.

Here you can see how I crossed the lines over. To keep them safely away I made a bracket that unbolts from the skid plate so that way there is no way the hosing can fall and gives it alot of strength from doing so. I also made a bracket that bolts to the tailshaft of the tranny (drilled and tapped) so the bundle will have some good support to stay in place

I also made a tab/welded it to hold the back end of the bundle..

I decided to toss the floor on to to see what was left to notch or bend--and its really close.

 

[82toyomud]

What is that ready-rod and rod end in the 3rd picture attached to? It seems a little bent:eeek:

 

[AMJ]

What is that ready-rod and rod end in the 3rd picture attached to? It seems a little bent:eeek:

Looks like the end for the swaybar.

 

[Eric]

What is that ready-rod and rod end in the 3rd picture attached to? It seems a little bent:eeek:

And it being a little bent surprises you?:eeek:

 

[briejer]

I have not had the best of luck with the sway bar, stripped arms, and a busted sway bar. the last year of wheeling the buggy was without a sway bar.

** S&N Fab gave me replacment part both times free of charge**

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

Mike where do you get that heat shielding wrap stuff?

 

[crash2]

Mike where do you get that heat shielding wrap stuff?

Robin brought it(from some oil supply place)--and its some of coolest stuff I have seen.

We took it--stuck your finger in it--and took a torch to it--the stuff glowed red and your finger did not get hot