holeshot
Well-Known Member
I have also gottin that same heat shield at "Williams Oil" in Tacoma. Its is exspensive.
Its called "Fire Sleeve"
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&q=fire+sleeve
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The snawsage version---- something
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
I have also gottin that same heat shield at "Williams Oil" in Tacoma. Its is exspensive.
Its called "Fire Sleeve"
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&q=fire+sleeve
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok here is a lil update--the work has been slow and tideas(sp)..
But in any case I finally got all the work done under the passenger floor, brake lines/hydro lines/air lines ect ect. But its a pretty tight package..
Since that was done I trimmed the floor panel for final fitment.. I also had to pull the drivers side to trim it back for the t-case upper bushing mounts--and cut a couple bushings down to fit..
But in any case I finally got all the work done under the passenger floor, brake lines/hydro lines/air lines ect ect. But its a pretty tight package..
Since that was done I trimmed the floor panel for final fitment.. I also had to pull the drivers side to trim it back for the t-case upper bushing mounts--and cut a couple bushings down to fit..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I wanted to work on the center of the rig--but I needed to get the back axle all squared away first due to the origional routing of the rear hydro lines plus one brake line was too short and the air locker line also wasn't ran..
But I poked around the rear to get an idea of how I wanted to do it...
Now one thing that robin was concerned about was sticks and such getting caught up in stuff. One thing that I have always prefered--to have all lines routed tight against axles/frames and ect... Well I really didn't like this :redneck:
There were little brackets that use those type of U clips--I ripped them off and threw them at the little kids playing in the road.. :redneck:
So now the lines at the knuckles are tight against the housing (drill/tap housing for clamps)
I also had to re-route the hydro lines so if the frame makes contact with the housing--**** won't get squished easily :awesomework:
And everything ran forward..
But I poked around the rear to get an idea of how I wanted to do it...
Now one thing that robin was concerned about was sticks and such getting caught up in stuff. One thing that I have always prefered--to have all lines routed tight against axles/frames and ect... Well I really didn't like this :redneck:
There were little brackets that use those type of U clips--I ripped them off and threw them at the little kids playing in the road.. :redneck:
So now the lines at the knuckles are tight against the housing (drill/tap housing for clamps)
I also had to re-route the hydro lines so if the frame makes contact with the housing--**** won't get squished easily :awesomework:
And everything ran forward..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So now that all that was done--I was now able to try and get more stuff in the middle of the rig done. Since we ran a second steering cooler--I went and tieded into the return off the rear steering valve--and was able to finish the hrdo lines since there was just enough parts in robins stash of goods he brought up..
So here is the mess of hosing in the center of the rig--alot of crap huh :redneck:
So the brakes are done except lines from the master to the lever locks(those will be ran down the drivers side of the rig along with the main air feed from the tank to the diff lock switchs). Robin had ran the shift cable under the center console mounting assy--so I also ran that under the lever locks--so now its away from the heat and in less of a bind (granted that whole area is just full of **** :redneck: )
So here is the mess of hosing in the center of the rig--alot of crap huh :redneck:
So the brakes are done except lines from the master to the lever locks(those will be ran down the drivers side of the rig along with the main air feed from the tank to the diff lock switchs). Robin had ran the shift cable under the center console mounting assy--so I also ran that under the lever locks--so now its away from the heat and in less of a bind (granted that whole area is just full of **** :redneck: )
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So next I decided to work on the tunnel cover. It had to be tweeked and shaved here and there--and I will have to remove it one more time for the vent lines (we will be going with a ball valve setup to retain fluids on rollovers)..
But in any case there was a fitment issue with the cover to the bottom of the firewall--but with a little finesse--it went on...
But in any case there was a fitment issue with the cover to the bottom of the firewall--but with a little finesse--it went on...
Quick question.....with the new mounting on the brake hose, does it still turn lock to without stretching the hose?
And one other thing/ the cutting brakes....
Red is left/right for the REAR brakes
Blue is left/right for the FRONT brakes
And one other thing/ the cutting brakes....
Red is left/right for the REAR brakes
Blue is left/right for the FRONT brakes
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So the next item to tackle--was the center dash pod(well I wouldn't call it a pod--kinda big for a pod :hi: )
But in any case I had to do alot of cutting and trimming to get it close.
But that was one aspect of it--I had to figure out how to secure it safely. There were already 2 mounts along the dash bar--so I added a third..
But the hard part was to figure out how to secure tha base of it. after some thought--I finally came up with this. I made 4 tabs and welded them to the tunnel cover. I also tapped the pod so all you have to do is set it into place and screw it down (10x32 bolts). To help insure they don't strip out(its only 1/8") I am going to epoxy nuts on the inside of the pod. But once I got it roughed in I was able to lop off more of the bottm--so its not sitting directly on the tunnel (noise/rattle reduction)..
But now you can bang on it and it doesn't budge...
But in any case I had to do alot of cutting and trimming to get it close.
But that was one aspect of it--I had to figure out how to secure it safely. There were already 2 mounts along the dash bar--so I added a third..
But the hard part was to figure out how to secure tha base of it. after some thought--I finally came up with this. I made 4 tabs and welded them to the tunnel cover. I also tapped the pod so all you have to do is set it into place and screw it down (10x32 bolts). To help insure they don't strip out(its only 1/8") I am going to epoxy nuts on the inside of the pod. But once I got it roughed in I was able to lop off more of the bottm--so its not sitting directly on the tunnel (noise/rattle reduction)..
But now you can bang on it and it doesn't budge...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Just fine--they rotate in the center of the knuckle--so all they do is bend and not need to go longer or shorter :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Now came the tricky time---to fill the pod.
Here is an idea I came up with and let me know if this is ok robin
I figured I would toss the 3rd guage in--but that will actually have to go to the passenger side due to the propane mixer (not deep enough behind the 3rd guage where I drew it on the pod)
Then the switchs below the gauges
Then below that the locker switch's with the main battery switch next to those and below those the ball valves...
Its pretty tight but depending on if we can find small panel mount ballo valves--it should all fit...
Here is an idea I came up with and let me know if this is ok robin
I figured I would toss the 3rd guage in--but that will actually have to go to the passenger side due to the propane mixer (not deep enough behind the 3rd guage where I drew it on the pod)
Then the switchs below the gauges
Then below that the locker switch's with the main battery switch next to those and below those the ball valves...
Its pretty tight but depending on if we can find small panel mount ballo valves--it should all fit...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I also looked at putting the guages to the left of the steering wheel--there is a very nice hole for them to fit under the lip of the hood--then move everything up on the pod...
That will work as long as they are plenty protected for when I drive it on it's side or try to squeze through ****.
would it be a little diamond plate pod?
If it will stand my abuse the do it.
And....one again I am very pleased and enjoy you fixing my problems.
Can you fix the problems in my personal life also?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I can--- but you won't like it
:redneck:
Ok--I will look at trying to put the gauges in the hole :eeek: ...
After looking at it, I'm fine with the air swithes and guages where you first put them....it looks nice and clean......go for it.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks guys...
I can't take credit for any of the shetmetal work/tig work though---that was already done--I just fine tuned it a bit.....
I can't take credit for any of the shetmetal work/tig work though---that was already done--I just fine tuned it a bit.....
Interesting, I've never seen a sway bar on the axle itself. :corn: Are the arms threaded where the clamps tighten around the shaft? I see a nut on the PS that looks loose (DS looks tight), but if the arm's threaded it may just be redundant.
Awesome work as per usual Mike. :awesomework:
Awesome work as per usual Mike. :awesomework:
Look a bit closer at rock buggys.....more and more are putting the swaybar on the axle. It is easier to package when you are running out of room an the chassis.
Most bolts are currently loose, the buggy is in mach up.
There has been a lot of changes since it was last driven. Most the rear tube work is new, about a foot and a half was cut off the front then new tube work. the wheelbase grew to 116" by lengthening the skid plate. A steering axle and all the hydo hose, fancy rear steer valve, custom wheel adapters, custom brakes to fit rims smaller than 20". A front wheel cutting brake for rear burns.Rear link geometry changed. Front suspension changed to have equal droop and compression. New motor mounts. then all new electrical, brakeline and perfect finishing touches by Crash. It will also have the 4.3 atlas swaped with a 3.8.
If you've got the room it's kind of a cool idea. Also redistributes some weight from sprung to unsprung like when you see guys mounting winches and even batteries down on the axle.
Subscribed. :corn:
