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Boonie Buster Ver. 2.634

the housing basically follows the radius of the third member then blends into the tube.The newer(70's) housings have ALOT more material tapering from the center section out, onto the tubes.Stronger for rear application but a hassle if you want to have youre front pinion as close to the knuckle as possible.
 
Made some progress on the second crossmember tonight, tomorrow night I will work on fine tuning the brackets (ie. notching the main bar for the mounts and making attachments to the case)
 
Got the np205 crossmember almost finished tonight, found a BUNCH of problems with my driveline yokes on the t-cases and pinions:mad: some one is getting a crude phone call on monday:mad: Also my driver's side steering arm for the tie rod, the hole was reamed out too much so the tie rod ball joint sticks too far through and if the castle nut is cranked tight it is still loose:mad: all in all a bad day as far as parts go:awesomework:
 
Boonie Buster said:
Got the np205 crossmember almost finished tonight, found a BUNCH of problems with my driveline yokes on the t-cases and pinions:mad: some one is getting a crude phone call on monday:mad: Also my driver's side steering arm for the tie rod, the hole was reamed out too much so the tie rod ball joint sticks too far through and if the castle nut is cranked tight it is still loose:mad: all in all a bad day as far as parts go:awesomework:
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was is mt case thats the problem??? or did the drivelines not work out???
 
angelfly said:
was is mt case thats the problem??? or did the drivelines not work out???
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no your case is fine, it's the yokes that i wanted to put on, i wanted them all the same cus the front and rear were different, so i wanted some beef and all the same u-joint to be used on everything... guess not...:booo: now i am reconsidering my driveline options and seeing about going with a smaller sixe, i just don't want to go too weak i guess.:eeek:
 
Boonie Buster said:
no your case is fine, it's the yokes that i wanted to put on, i wanted them all the same cus the front and rear were different, so i wanted some beef and all the same u-joint to be used on everything... guess not...:booo: now i am reconsidering my driveline options and seeing about going with a smaller sixe, i just don't want to go too weak i guess.:eeek:
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Man I really wouldnt worry about it, I mean they took the beating of my fullsize and never had a problem I dont know why you would have one. . . .

I said this in your other post but in case you missed it, If I remeber correctly the 44 and 205 yokes swap with eachother, So really you only need 2 spares one for the 44 and one for the 9in if you are worried about breaking them:beer:
 
UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too....:mad: :mad: :mad: :booo:
 
Boonie Buster said:
UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too....:mad: :mad: :mad: :booo:
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Why get rid of the truck???? I know it's frustrating when you run into a bunch of problems all at once, but just work thru them. It will be worth it in the end
 
could the high steer arms be meant for bigger tres??? might be a dumb question or could you make the work by switching to heims for your steering
 
I hope the waffles picked up your spirits :awesomework:

This does all suck, but when you are trying to do such specific things, you are bound to run into bumps. Keep at it.
 
Boonie Buster said:
UPDATE: So I am finding that BOTH my high steer arms that I ordered are indeed ****ED! Both bottom out the castle and do not tighten properly. I am having a VERY bad run of luck..... I think I want to get rid of this truck too....:mad: :mad: :mad: :booo:
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I wonder if the high steer arms were bored out for the joints used on a 60, instead of a 44? I wonder if they are bigger or not?

Either way, take some measurements and built a fatty steering track bar (whatever it is called) with some new joints and whatnot. Problem fixed! Edit, it would appear that 1 ton rod ends are larger than 1/2 stuff, no surprise at that.
 
From what I have seen, most 44 front axles, 1/2 ton or 3/4 are virtually the same outside of the spindles, bearings / hub bodies (and yeah, more lugs smart ass). There might be some thin wall 44's out there under some old jeep, but I think the Chevy 44's are basically the same with respect to your joint sizes.

Dana 60's are entirely different animals, as are 30's, 70's and so on.
 
Boxxerace said:
From what I have seen, most 44 front axles, 1/2 ton or 3/4 are virtually the same outside of the spindles, bearings / hub bodies (and yeah, more lugs smart ass). There might be some thin wall 44's out there under some old jeep, but I think the Chevy 44's are basically the same with respect to your joint sizes.

Dana 60's are entirely different animals, as are 30's, 70's and so on.
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Not trying to argue but 1/2ton and 3/4ton are not the same! A 3/4ton ford 44 is also called a bigknuckle 44 meaning everything from the inner c and out is bigger and stronger then a 1/2ton!!! The spindles, bearings, rotors, everything is different:beer: Aftering working on many oldskool fullsizes 1/2ton- 1ton u figure some **** out:awesomework: Anyways he has a ford 44 and I think that is identical to a ford 60 except the guts.????
 

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