D60 Gears

crash2 · Sep 16, 2007

Stay away from the d70 or 14 bolt--the housings are just too big for what you want to do. Either get a std 60 or go with a high 9...

You want to keep your tire size down and still have decent clearance on your rear. Heck I had a guy with 40's and a 14 bolt follow me once--he got stuck on everything...

blackcj71 · Sep 16, 2007

Jobless said:
Even running 37's a 14 bolt and D70 are still too big.

Unless you like draggin diff in the parking lot:corn:

Wildman1 · Sep 16, 2007

Mike,
I'd love a Hi9 and might look into building a pair for the Jeep. But for now I need/want to get this thing back on the trail.

So I guess it is now narrowed down to two options.
1) Keep CRD60 and regear while waiting to build nex axle/axles.

2) Put LP D60 in rear and run it until I can get new axle/axles built for Jeep.

CrustyJeep · Sep 16, 2007

Jobless said:
Do a junkyard 60 and put 35 spline axles in it, it's the most economical of your choices.

Yup, just hack the outers off your axle, narrow the JY housing appropriately, and re-use your existing shafts, bearing ends, etc. Save what's left of the HP for the front.

Binder · Sep 16, 2007

I would regear it and run it. I think your last failure was a poor install. Stay away from 9's, cans are for tuna.:flipoff:

Digger 5 · Sep 16, 2007

Rick-
I didn't read all of the posts so I don't know if this has been brought up...
has the case been checked to be machined properly? I'm curious if the pinion bore and the carrier journals are bored/machined correctly (E.I. a 90 degree angle). IIRC your housing was used and an early version. Some early versions of the CRD had a few problems. I would certainly have it checked before you consider using it again even in a front application.

Binder · Sep 16, 2007

Digger 5 said:
has the case been checked to be machined properly? I'm curious if the pinion bore and the carrier journals are bored/machined correctly (E.I. a 90 degree angle). IIRC your housing was used and an early version. Some early versions of the CRD had a few problems. .

Who ever did the last setup should have been able to tell this by the gear mesh pattern..

no excuses · Sep 17, 2007

Binder said:
Stay away from 9's, cans are for tuna.:flipoff:

Daam and I thought cans are for drinking beer:wtf:

:fawkdancesmiley:

TreeClimber · Sep 17, 2007

Digger 5 said:
Rick-
I didn't read all of the posts so I don't know if this has been brought up...
has the case been checked to be machined properly? I'm curious if the pinion bore and the carrier journals are bored/machined correctly (E.I. a 90 degree angle). IIRC your housing was used and an early version. Some early versions of the CRD had a few problems. I would certainly have it checked before you consider using it again even in a front application.

Binder said:
Who ever did the last setup should have been able to tell this by the gear mesh pattern..

I would have thought so too, but why does a 'desire'd case like this get sold and resold and resold again? Why would a case spit different gear sets, by different installers? If it was originally bored off even a degree, it could account for all the problems. And if it's indeed true and straight, then you've at least eliminated one potential concern.

crash2 · Sep 17, 2007

Binder said:
Who ever did the last setup should have been able to tell this by the gear mesh pattern..

Every bent case I have seen--you could see it in the pattern to a point--had one that was questionable but I replaced it anyways... Only thing you won't be able to see by a pattern is whats happening under torque..

TreeClimber · Sep 17, 2007

Yeah, but what if the case ISN'T bent, but NOT BORED true? It's an early case, and they had problems with the early designs, or so I've been told.

crash2 · Sep 17, 2007

TreeClimber said:
Yeah, but what if the case ISN'T bent, but NOT BORED true? It's an early case, and they had problems with the early designs, or so I've been told.

In that case you would more than likely see it in the pattern I would think..

Binder · Sep 17, 2007

crash said:
In that case you would more than likely see it in the pattern I would think..

Definately. That case may very well be machined out of tollerance. Remember the wear pattern on the ring gear looks out of wack...A guy could just throw in a old set of gears and check the pattern to see if things can line up before buying a new set...

mark · Sep 17, 2007

Sounds like the fastest solution is to toss in another set and get the truck off the jackstands.

Then look at building another rear housing since it seems that something is out of whack with this one.

Then when it breaks again, or you have the time/$$ to do so swap it out then save the HP for a future front axle (after having it checked out).

If your only running 35's, I'd take a look at a 9" for the rear. Beef it, 35-spline, shave it. I don't know if I would go HP if I could avoid it, but then I know nothing about the Hi-9 kits (other than they are expensive).

Just a webwheeler perspective.
________
Iolite Comparison

Wildman1 · Sep 17, 2007

Crash,
What about the threads on Pirates I have been reading about shaving the 14bolt? I would hate to go with a LP60 and keep on breaking stuff.

For right now I am going to throw a new set of gears into the axle and see what happens. I have a gift certificate for $200 off a gear set from Precision Gear. So that part at least is free.

Not Jobless · Sep 17, 2007

Wildman said:
Crash,
What about the threads on Pirates I have been reading about shaving the 14bolt? I would hate to go with a LP60 and keep on breaking stuff.

:rb:

You can shave it all you want and it's still a boat anchor.

A low pinion 60 is plenty.

Digger 5 · Sep 17, 2007

Rick-
If you want to build a 14B, start with an old Eaton out of a late 60's or early 70's 3/4 ton GM. It has the same carrier as a 14 bolt but not the plow case. Use std 14B axles and std 14B Detroit or ARB.

As for the CRD unit, you SHOULD notice the bad pattern if the center section is bent or machined improperly BUT, that's assuming that the builder ran a full pattern around the ring gear. Not all or even many do a full pattern around the ring gear. If only a small portion of the ring gear is tested, a good pattern could be had but that doesn't mean the housing isn't wrong.

Wildman1 · Sep 17, 2007

Jobless said:
:rb:

You can shave it all you want and it's still a boat anchor.

A low pinion 60 is plenty.

Brad I gots to ask??:cheer: :cheer: :kiss:

Not Jobless · Sep 18, 2007

Wildman said:
Brad I gots to ask??:cheer: :cheer: :kiss:

Gotta ask what?

Why other people use 14 bolts in the rear?

Simple, they are inexpensive...which doesn't necessarily make them a good choice.

Toyota's are inexpensive too...:haha: :haha: :haha:

crash2 · Sep 18, 2007

Wildman said:
Crash,
What about the threads on Pirates I have been reading about shaving the 14bolt? I would hate to go with a LP60 and keep on breaking stuff.

For right now I am going to throw a new set of gears into the axle and see what happens. I have a gift certificate for $200 off a gear set from Precision Gear. So that part at least is free.

Don't waiste your time on one rick. ASs brad stated they stated they are cheap--but they are a big heavy turd. Go with a 9" or a 60...